Is it really that difficult?

Jimmy L

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They could route a line into the waste tank to cool it off and then go back into the fresh water tank.
 
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Cleanworks

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If you are using a last step chemical injector, you can plumb it to a fitting under the truck and just dump on the ground. It's only hot water, not going to hurt anything.
 

Bob Pruitt

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If you are using a last step chemical injector, you can plumb it to a fitting under the truck and just dump on the ground. It's only hot water, not going to hurt anything.
I did that once and it sterilized the ground and killed the grass. I think the current solution are the larger water boxes that are suppose to re-circulate the water for up to 20 minutes before dumping? Not sure how it works...I only had one machine that dumped hot water.
 

Cleanworks

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I did that once and it sterilized the ground and killed the grass. I think the current solution are the larger water boxes that are suppose to re-circulate the water for up to 20 minutes before dumping? Not sure how it works...I only had one machine that dumped hot water.
Number one, don't park on the grass. 2, the fitting should be a v or t jet. The water will be cold before it ever hits the geound.
 
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Cleanworks

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Working with that theory, why not dump it into the fresh water tank?
I did that temporarily on an old blazer I used to have when my temp control failed. I just routed it to the water box. If you had a larger water box or a fresh water tank, it shouldn' be a problem.
 

Papa John

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They dump it into the waste tank because not all setups have fresh water tanks. This dumping action is to protect the equipment and the manufacturer from the operator.
We all work at different speeds and efficiencies as well as different water flows.
The dumping will generally happen when cleaning upholstery or stairs because those tools have lower flow rates; and may also happen if you are off the wand trigger for 5 or more minutes while talking or moving furniture.
If you dont have fresh water tank to reroute the dumping water then you will need to increase your flow rate and or change your wand technique. Basically while cleaning only wet enough area to drain your heat exchanger- thereby filling it up with new unheated water- then do dry strokes.
 
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Bob Pruitt

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The machine I had was an early heat exchanger model. It filled the waste tank and you had to dump it to keep working. Often the water was still pretty hot. I didn’t dump it on the grass but enough got there that it killed a small plant and some grass. I paid her Landscape Company to fix it.
A pump out might have helped but it bothered me to dump so often and I had that machine less than a year.

I have a Butler now... 210 gallon waste tank, very balanced heat. I also have a pump out system to direct dirty water to sewer clean out.
 

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Same with the 870. That Cat pump diverter valve stays open all the time. It's supposed to open at 165°. I'm on my third one now. I have #4 sitting on my work bench, but why bother. My APO keeps the tank empty and I don't have a problem with heat, even with the water flowing all the time. I may put the new one on someday, who knows.
 

Mikey P

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Damon do you run the 870 on high heat all the time, what happens when you choose low?

I would think it would be more than enough for an 8 flow wand
 
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Nomad74

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Damon do you run the 870 on high heat all the time, what happens when you chose low?

I would think it would be more than enough for an 8 flow wand
No, I always clean on medium speed and low heat. The only time I click to high heat is if i'm doing tile that is really greasy. The valve flows even when the hose is first hooked up while the machine is stone cold. Vary rarely does my machine ever clean on anything but low heat.
 

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Reading all this makes me glad that all I have to worry about is accidentally flooding the customer’s bathroom, kitchen or hallway. Lol.

Now on a practical level, why is there not an on-demand heater out there? Gas or electric models exist for residential use, and for exhaust heat exchangers, it seems a simple flow diverter to direct heat into the coils or to bypass them would be child’s play to fabricate. Similarly, a flow diverter could send water into an air-cooled coil to keep the heat exchanger temperature below any danger level, without dumping any water.

There.
 
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Matt Wood

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The answer to your prayers is right below:

-Titan 575. You can let it sit for 40min Under full load and it won't send any water into the waste tank. There's 3 options on water temp. Cold for delicate fibers and wool, hot 170f, and full heat 230f.
 
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Spurlington

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Yeah why not divert the exhaust to stop heating the water when it reaches temp rather than over heating the water which leads to dumping out into the tank

My last mount - the solenoid would open up and dump back into the fresh tank .. good in the winter .. not in summer as it got toooo hot ..
 

Spurlington

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The pic above isnt telling me too much about diverting. My SS370 has a maual diverter to bypass the heating chamber - but I want it to bypass on its own as it reads selected temps rather than dump the water to bring the temp back down.
 

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The new Gtx diverts the exhaust, at least that's what it looks like to me.. I was looking into it because I noticed they changed the heat control lever position.. I saw it on @Dan Lofsten post, and wondered what they did.. Maybe he can fill us in..
 

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