Is my CDS about to die?

gimmeagig

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Roxy
Hi,
My 1999 CDS 4.8 has been working perfectly for a long time but lately when I start up the machine it has a tough time reaching the correct idle. It starts up kind of low, then it revs up and comes back down again. Today to the point where i was worried it would give up completely. Then it reaches idle and runs like it should. That happens weather I have the water pump on or not. The oil levels are correct the filters are clean.I always lube the blower before I shut the machine down. Once the machine reaches idle it runs absolutely perfect, no indication of any problems whatsoever.
What could cause this. Is this a sign of trouble coming my way? I remember the machine doing that on occasion, but not always.What maintenance should I do at this point?
 
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How does it act when you drive it?

If it drives fine then I would guess it is the Pods under the hood. I am assuming your talking hydramster as well.

A CDS would only really die if the van dies.
 

gimmeagig

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I'm not calling Hydramaster tech support anymore when I need help. They have a guy named Dennis in that department and he consistently has given me the feeling like I'm an idiot who is interrupting his lunch break. And I never have gotten a useful answer out of him.
So thank you very much for that clear diagnosis. I looked under the hood and there are two pod like thingies with airtubes going to them and some type of screw adjustment on the front. I'm assuming that is what you are talking about. What are these pods? Are they part of the Van motor or are they part of the CDS? What is their function? They seem to be easy to replace but as far as adjusting them I wouldn't know what to do. Would that repair be something for my Dodge mechanic or for my local Hydramaster repair shop?
I have jobs this week that I don't want to move. Is it safe to operate the machine the way it is or could it fail?
 

Steve CGD guy

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If it is the pods you will be able to tell by putting a stick on the accelerator, cut to wedge against the seat. If it holds the rpm's steady with the stick you can clean with it wedged there indefinitely without damaging anything. If it wont hold rpm's with the stick wedged in there then the clutch is slipping.
 

joey895

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I have a white magic cds and it noticed if the van engine develops a little bit of a miss or is not running just right my rpms will fluctuate when the machine is engaged. Just a thought.

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Doug Cox

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I would check the vac hose to make sure they aren't cracked or collapsed.

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They have a guy named Dennis in that department and he consistently has given me the feeling like I'm an idiot who is interrupting his lunch break.

Whether this makes a difference or not, Dennis is no longer with Hydramaster.
I actually like Dennis. Yes, he has his quirks, but he does have some deep product knowledge that really made him an asset, IMHO.
 

bob vawter

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you COULD install a linear solenoid just above the top of the accelerator pedel rod...drill the hole a tad larger then use picture wire cable to pull to desired RPM
 
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gimmeagig

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you COULD install a linear solenoid just above the top of the accelerator pedel rod...drill the hole a tad larger then use picture wire cable to pull to desired RPM
I'm not trying to modify the truck I just want to find the problem and repair it.
 

gimmeagig

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Whether this makes a difference or not, Dennis is no longer with Hydramaster.
I actually like Dennis. Yes, he has his quirks, but he does have some deep product knowledge that really made him an asset, IMHO.
Actually that does make a huge difference. Dennis with his vast product knowledge sure didn't ever throw me a bone. I guess I wasn't worthy of any morsels of his infinite wisdom. I just always got the feeling he was the type of guy who would do as little as possible and who would be the first guy out of there when it's quitting time.
Quirky may not be one of the first things a customer is looking for if he calls in to tech support for help with the CDS.
 

mirf

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I think it is the pods but check hoses first. jon don sells them but your local dist. should too.
 

D Rice

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Check your idle air control ( IAC ) they get a carbon build up and most can be cleaned and not too expensive if you need to buy one. The one on my van is easy to change out.
 

gimmeagig

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Check your idle air control ( IAC ) they get a carbon build up and most can be cleaned and not too expensive if you need to buy one. The one on my van is easy to change out.
The truck itself idles normally. Could it still be the IAC? Is the IAC part of the engine or is it part of the CDS?
 

The Great Oz

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Look at the cables that connect the pods to the the throttle. They tend to stretch over time, so if they have a sag you'll need to tighten them up. Adjusting is just turning the screw on the pod and watching how it affects the wires. At fourteen years it might be time to replace the pods though, they have a rubber component that will eventually fail.


Hydramaster has troubleshooting info on their website as well.


CDS turns on but will not come up tospeed
2.1. Throttlecables are broken or out of adjustment.Inspect throttle cables for
properadjustment. Adjust or replace as necessary.
2.2. Throttlepod is defective.Inspect throttle pods to ensure they will hold vacuum
whencompressed. Replace as necessary.
2.3. Thereis no vacuum at throttle pods.Inspect all vacuum lines to the pods and to
thevacuum solenoid. Replace or repair as necessary.
2.4. Thereis no power to the vacuum solenoid.Check for 12 volts and a ground at
thevacuum solenoid with the machine key on and the vehicle off. If there is 12volts
and aground at the solenoid but it does not activate, replace the solenoid.
2.4.1.If there is not 12 volts and a ground at the solenoid, check thewiring back to the
CDSconsole. Repair as necessary. Note: The ground wires at theconnection point on
the blower frame can look and feel tight butstill be corroded. It is a good idea to
periodically remove, clean andre-tighten these wires.
3.0. CDS will not maintain proper RPM
3.1. Thesecondary throttle cable is out of adjustment or broken. Readjust or
replaceas necessary.
3.2. Thesecondary vacuum pod is defective.Test pod to see if it holds vacuum.
Replaceas necessary.
3.3. Thevacuum source to the secondary pod is not sufficient. Check hose from
blowerinlet to secondary pod and repair or replace as necessary.
3.4. Vacuumis set too high.Cap off both vacuum inlets on the recovery tank. If
vacuumgauge reads over 14", re-adjust the vacuum relief valve.
 
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The pods can be bought at Napa auto parts store. They are used for cruise control on older vehicles. One pod brings the vacuum up and the other boost the vac unload. You could try swapping the vac lines to them and see if it make a difference. Turn the screw on the end to adjust the idle one way will rev it up the other will rev it down.
 
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gimmeagig

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Thank you so much guys for helping me with this. I swapped out the vacuum lines yesterday.The machine started well afterwards. I'm on my way to a job now, I'll see how it goes.
Thank you Bryan for the really helpful info. I'll look at the cables when I get back. I love that truck I bought from you and the business i'm in.
 
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gimmeagig

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Roxy
So I think I got it. I changed out the vacuum lines but i think what it really was was an electrical contact on some type of solenoid switch. there are wto vac lines going to it and one is coming out and two electrical conectors. One for the high rpm one for the low( I'm guessing here)Well one of the connectors was very loose. So I cleaned the contacts and got the wires reconnected.Now the machine runs perfectly. There still may be a need to replace the pods eventually. There are the sliding tabs that hold the throttle cables,one of them seems kind of loose compared to the other. I still need to lube those cables.
I checked how much the pods are and JonDon sells them for 60 each. So I called LPM here in Spokane and they are selling them for 100 each. I told them about the price at JonDon and tried to get them to come down just a little bit but they would not budge. I do appreciate their mechanic, he has helped me a lot over the years and I'll probably still buy the pods at LPM and have them do it but that's a big markup. If JonDon can sell them for 60.- they probably cost 30.- from the supplier. So LPM would be making 70.- on a 100.- part times two. The the price I'd be paying for the labor...
But I suppose I need to look at the bigger picture of doing my part to keep them in business in case something really significant and difficult is wrong with my machine. Then I would really need them. But that kind of markup still rubs me the wrong way....
 

gimmeagig

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Roxy
The pods cost maybe $30 at Napa.
So LPM and Jondon pay probably even less than 30.- for the pods. That's really bad especially the 100.- that LPM charges. I know it's in my interest too that they make money but that is over the top.
So I'll just have to learn how to do this job myself. can't be that hard. I'll connect the vacuum lines and hook up the cables so they are just a little bit tight that's easy but I don't know what the setscrews do. Do they control the idle by changing the tension of the cables or is it some other type of adjustment? And why are there two pods? At first I was thinking Hi and Low RPM but now I'm not sure. Does one control where the truck motor idles and the other what the speed is when the machine is turned on? What does each one of these pod do?
So one more question: is there a Napa part number for these pods. Could there be several that might look the same but have different ratings? How can I be sure i get the right part? OK that was three but you know what i mean :D
Thanks
 
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Can get the pods at Napa Auto Parts Store

Part # 2-4861 (Ford Carburetor Pull off)

78 ford bronco truck 5.8



Choke Pulloff

Auto Zone Part # CP180
78 ford bronco truck 5.8

Clockwise Increases RPMS
Counter Clockwise Decreases RPMS

I have replaced mine with these. I think they only make one vacuum pod.

Why they carpet industry tries to rip us off and double the price on every thing is BS, I think.
 
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Joined
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RPMS should hold at 2750 I think may depend on your cds model.

One set the RPMS and the other holds it while under a load.

to know which one set it start it up and pull a vac off. if it idles down that is the one that set it. The other is the load one.

That may be why one cable is loose also, or it may need to be tightened.
 

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