Leaks

[GeneMiller]

the temperature solenoid and pressure regulator both started leaking. I tried to repair both today but they are frozen solid. Neither one has ever been off. I sprayed the sleeve hoping it would break loose. I'll try again tomorrow. I hate leaks but I don't want to break something else trying to get it apart. I grabbed the body of the solenoid and turned it back and forth but the sleeve is turning with it. Heats a no go. It works so I may be better off just leaving it alone. The nut on the regulator should break loose but I put a lot of pressure on it and it didn't budge. The manual says to lubricate seal and oring every 100 hrs. Never been done and has worked perfect except for the leak. I hate to heat it and damage the seal. I doubt my supplier has the oring kit. I have 2 boxes of lots of sizes but no Teflon seals if that's what's inside. Any ideas ? Twist harder.

Gene

 

[dgardner]

If the reg has never been lubed then the brass is probably etched and a new seal/O-ring probably won't fix it anyway. That has been my experience with the regulators. It leaks, put in a seal kit, it still leaks, replace the reg.....

As far as breaking things loose - Kroil.

 

[Lee Stockwell]

x2 Kroil

 

[GeneMiller]

Don't have any kroil. Never even heard of it. I'll get some and try it.

Gene

 

[dgardner]

Kano Labs makes it. One handy size is an 8 Oz can with spout , or they have it in spray cans.

 

[dealtimeman]

Pics and solution would be great if you could, thanks in advance.

 

[JS41035]

If the nut it just twisting the entire stem on the solenoid. You can unplug the wires to the magnet, unscrew the bolts on the bottom on the skinner solenoid and then unscrew the entire stem. Then take a pair of channel locks with a rag to protect the stem. You should be able to work the nut loose.

 

[GeneMiller]

I couldn't take the pressure regulator any more so I replaced it. I can't get it to work for some reason. It shows no pressure and then spikes when I change the pressure and then nothing. I took it off and checked to make sure all the ins and outs where right. I even got s second pair of eyes to check. It's on the bench currently. I took it apart and checked for something foreign. Nothing. It's possible the 3/4 line from the bottom of the water box isn't a perfect seal. It is a little stiff. I bought new while I was at my supplier but haven't replaced it yet. Any ideas.

Gene

 

[Desk Jockey]

Gene is it an exact replacement part? The reason I ask was I faintly remember a tech support memo that said to remove a disk in the regulator.

I'm not saying this is true of your case as this was many years ago.However small changes specific to your unit can make huge differences.

 

[GeneMiller]

It's the same brand just 9 years newer. All the connections are identical except the bypass. The new one says bypass on both sides and the old one only one side. Since the other side has no markings I'm assuming it is a bypass Also. Could be a critical mistake but if it was an in or out I'm sure they would mark it. I do remember hearing about A spring and poppet that needs to be removed. I'll open it and check. Thanks Richard

Gene

 

[Desk Jockey]

Its been too long I wish I could remember better. However I do believe you are correct about the spring and poppet. Maybe try Youtube and see if someone put up a video????

 

[Jim Martin]

check the old one and make sure if they removed it or not some do...some don't.......if so then remove the check valve.........

 

[Desk Jockey]

You're the man Jim!

 

[GeneMiller]

One spring loaded poppet removed. Works now

Gene

 

[Desk Jockey]

Good deal!