More CDS heat

[tman7]

Is there a way to get more heat out of a Hydramaster CDS without a blower exchanger? Right now I get pretty consistant heat of 190 from three heat exchangers. The way its configured now, it takes the coolant directly from the block (what would normaly go first to the heater core) and then to my Xchangers. Would I get better heat if I took the coollant from directly before (or after?) the engine thermostat and then to the exchanger? Or could this casue issues to the van engine with such a choke down of coolant hose size feeding the radiater? How about air in a system like this, IOW is it nessesary to bleed air?

Thanks for your input

 

[TimP]

Yes you can post heat with propane or kerosene.

 

[Kevin. McCreary]

You can also change the thermostat on the cooling system from 190 to 205.

 

[tman7]

Why would that make a difference? All the thermostat does is keep the coolant in the block to allow faster engine preheating. Right?

 

[TimP]

it wont help too much. post heating is the best way but costs a lot. I'd rather not run the van hotter than it's meant to, cause it gets hot enough as it is in the summer.

 

[tman7]

it wont help too much. post heating is the best way but costs a lot. I'd rather not run the van hotter than it's meant to, cause it gets hot enough as it is in the summer.

I see your HM machine has the Salsa package. How much more heat can you get from just an blower exchanger?

 

[bob vawter]

Tony..
if you pick up yor heat AFTER the coolant has been thru the motor it will be much hotter...PLUS make sure that you are running yor solution the SAME WAY as the coolant....
that way it will stay in contact...longer!
and yes on the 205 stat!

 

[tman7]

So your saying the coolant headed for the heater core isnt as hot as whats going to the radiater? How would you plumb that? I'll have to try reversing the solution flow, I would have thought it would work better going against the coolant. Interesting.

 

[Mike Draper]

You will prolly run 230-240 with a blower HX with the lift set to 15hg.

 

[bob vawter]

So your saying the coolant headed for the heater core isnt as hot as whats going to the radiater? How would you plumb that? I'll have to try reversing the solution flow, I would have thought it would work better going against the coolant. Interesting.

well think about it....what would be hotter..
the engine at the stat(front) OR the heater core?
And the longer you can keep in contact wit the coolant...the better...right?

 

[tman7]

On my van engine the coolant for the heater core comes directly from the engine block so I would assume its as hot as can be.

 

[Jim Morrison]

In my opinion all these numbers are meaningless unless they are measured at the wand. I don't know why I'm just anal about that part of measuring heat.

I think my Cleanco would be pretty similar to your HM only I have the blower exchangers. On Friday I had the lie detector plumbed in and hit 202 atw but for the most part was cleaning at 185-190 atw. If you are looking for a substantial heat increase it will take some sort of post heater.

A Little Giant propane heater will bump your atw temps up by 20-40 degrees in a big hurry.

 

[TimP]

I see 220+ atm and durring times like now when it's hot outside 230+ is easy ATM. And that's running a .10 flow greenhorn wand. If you let it sit there the guage will hit 250.

 

[Chris A]

I see 220+ atm and durring times like now when it's hot outside 230+ is easy ATM. And that's running a .10 flow greenhorn wand. If you let it sit there the guage will hit 250.

not mine, 220-230 ATM is all I ever get unless I clean upholstery and forget to use a vac relief.

 

[Kevin. McCreary]

All I know is with a coolant exchanger your cleaning temps will not exceed your coolant temps.
Hence, 190 is what your gauge on the machine says. Thats probably what the gauge on the engine
says too.
Every direct drive I have ever used, with a GM van (Butler, HM, WM), I change the stat to a 205 and it instantly
runs 205 instead of 190 like the stat that came with the van.

 

[Out of Character - 0]

Switching to a 205 will probably help to main 180ish better while providing a slightly higher net temp. When your using 180 degree water to heat cold water, the rise slows down as you approach your hot water temp.

205 degree water will heat faster than 190 degree water, especially once you get over 170.

 

[Greenie]

Bring on the 220 T-stat!

lol

No...I don't think they make them standard, and yes I do think it would age the engine componenets a bit and cook the water pump a bit more...but it would be sweeeeet.

 

[Mike Draper]

So where do you buy a GMC thermostat that is set to 205. I've have on 2 different occasions checked 5+ auto parts stores and they all said they don't carry them or have ever heard of them. GMC dealer parts store says they don't make them and haven't for many years. Where are the guys on here getting the 205 thermostat for their CDS units or butlers?

 

[bob vawter]

Auto-Value gets mine for me.....Napa can get them too

 

[Kevin. McCreary]

Auto Zone

 

[joe harper]

Greenie,

Why don't YOU...Create a mod. that would ASSIST or BOOST direct drive units....

Is it possible DIVERT heat from a header or from the catalytic converter ....to pre-heat
or post heat the existing H.Exchanger ? Same principal as a vac-booster in theory.

Could install a water box ...that could tollerate a 30 degree temp boost from exhaust
from the cat.converter? The water box could have 240 degree temp sensor....that would
dump into waste tank to maintain temp control.

The van engine is already under a lot of stress in a D.Drive design....The additional
heat source is being supplied.(exhaust)....There could be a lot of COIN ....If you create
a"HYBRID"........... :wink:

 

[TimP]

As hot as it's been here doing my schools running my machine for hours on end. It gets up to probably 210-220 ish on the coolant guage. I pop the hood but it still gets hot as hell with a heat index of 106. All I can say is with 200 ft of hose at 500 psi it steams like crazy and pops the wand valve. I think it runs 230+ constant with .10 flow maybe 240 I haven't checked to see if it goes higher but I haven't seen it lower than 230 when I go out with it running. Makes the 3ht heater on my back up look like cold water for sure as far as being at the wand. Although it's run through neptune it's damn hot at the 3ht though.

 

[joe harper]

Tim. "I FEEL YA BRUTHA" It has been smokiin hot this week...I looks like
L.A. smog here in fl...

We used to put blowers pointing at the radiator on our Butlers...with the hood-up :!:

In august..on 4 to 5 hr jobs....It would literally melt the front belts :!: :!: :!:

 

[tman7]

I don't see how a hotter thermostat is going to increase temps. Isn't the purpose of a thermostat to decrease the amount of time it takes for the engine to reach operating temp? The operating temp is regulated by the coolant and radiator/fan. If you took the Thermostat out of the system it isnt going to get any hotter than the cooling system (radiator/fan) will allow. Unless I'm missing something....

 

[topnotchman]

Doesnt get that hot up here in the northwest where I live. But my old 4.0 CDS, maintained 190F ATM. But it was the old CDS, so no overdrive! So the van was probably idling at around 2,200 rpms at least. Had to always pop the hood in warmer weather for here (above 75F). I actually ended up putting an oversized radiator in it, and that helped. This was installed in a Ford Econoline inline 6.

my 4.8 CDS, runs about 210-220 ATM. Probably will get a bit more heat with the HG's turned up a bit more then what its set at. And I'm not running it in 100 degree weather so I'm not surprised some guys 4.8's get up to 230-240 and then some!

 

[Out of Character - 0]

I don't see how a hotter thermostat is going to increase temps. Isn't the purpose of a thermostat to decrease the amount of time it takes for the engine to reach operating temp? The operating temp is regulated by the coolant and radiator/fan. If you took the Thermostat out of the system it isnt going to get any hotter than the cooling system (radiator/fan) will allow. Unless I'm missing something....

Does your temp gauge float up and down as you drive at different speeds under different loads? No (unless you have a problem) it will run where the thermostat is designed to keep it.

 

[tman7]

A thermostat helps maintain a minimum temperature, but the max temp is limited by the cooling system not the thermostat.

 

[Out of Character - 0]

Warm up your van, floor it up the block and see if your temp gauge rises above the same spot it always sits. It should have a temp that it never goes over.

If you have an electric fan, just pretend you don't ( many vehicles don't), and if you think your radiator or water pump adjust to compensate for temp and load, well your wrong.

What am I missing, how does it not get to hot? Jesus?

 

[Out of Character - 0]

Look at it this way:

Your t-stat opens once a certain temp is achieved right? So if it opens.... yep, it closes to. It does that when temp is to low, thus keeping your vehicle running the same temp.

I sent you a pm, it's not for everyone.

 

[tman7]

Ok, I get that, but how exactly does a thermostat keep the temperature below a certain point, If thats what your saying it does?