Mr Harper I have some questions

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My EVEREST is plumbed to bypass hot water to the waste tank.

I read you plumbed yours to go back to the freshwater tank.

My machine runs HOT. If we run the machine on medium single wanding the water runs too hot so it dumps a little. I go through water quick. If we dual wand we do not have any problems as long as we are cleaning non stop. If we stop to move things, the water temp jumps up quick.

If we plumbed the water to bypass back to the freshwater tank, we would conserve water.

Will this hurt the pump in hot weather?

If the water gets low and water is bypassing back to the tank will this overheat the water?

Just curious.

I am not likely to go against the original design. I just wanted your input.
 
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Re: Mr Haper I have some questions

One more thing. My machine has a 140 degree or 165 degree temp sensor. I can't remember which one it is. It opens when the water gets to that point and the vacuum from the tank pulls the water through the line.

How do you make this work on a freshwater tank?
 

joe harper

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Re: Mr Haper I have some questions

Dan,
I assume you are talking about the 180 degree sensor in your water box temp... :?:

The simplest thing to do a raise "overall" performance is to run 2.5in.vac hose @ least
50ft. This will allow your blower the breath better & remove the back pressure to lower
excessive water box temp.. :idea:

Run "higher flow" jets...this will also help... :idea:

If you sensors are ..OK... :?:

You have a flow restriction somewhere.. :!: Empty out your water box...vac out the tank
& clean the "screen" in the bottom of the tank..."You could have HARD WATER deposits
causing the flow to the wand being restricted... !gotcha! !gotcha!
 
T

The Magician

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Re: Mr Haper I have some questions

Good advice from Ron.Everett shouldn't by pass too much water so running to a 100 gal FW tank wouldn't make too much of a difference. Just keep you eye on the fresh water temp.
 

joe harper

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Re: Mr Haper I have some questions

The Magician said:
Good advice from Ron.Everett shouldn't by pass too much water so running to a 100 gal FW tank wouldn't make too much of a difference. Just keep you eye on the fresh water temp.

This thread is fouul of tYpo's... :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol:

1st..Who is "Ron"..?

2nd.. Who manufactures the "Everett"... :?: ......... :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol:

Dan,
If you want to go with rEdNeCk eNgInEErInG"... !gotcha!

Since you are NOT having the problem when "dual wanding".. :!:

Just cut you a piece of solution line.."long enough" to reach your freshy tank.. :!:

Leave one end of the QD on the line .."to attach" to the auxiliary connection in the front
of the Everest..! then install a "ball valve"...to the end that you will put in the freshy tank..

Then crack open the "ball valve"....this will allow the water box to "free flow" into the
freshy tank..."RELIEVING ANY EXCESS HEAT"... !gotcha!

Now you even have a "pre heater"...for your fresh tank in the winter... :idea: :idea:



PS..If you are "metering chem's"...DON'T do this...Chems will run into your pump... :!: :!:
But the dilution would be so high...It probably would hurt NOTHING..!!
 

XTREME1

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I had a similar problem and I diverted the return to the fresh water tank. Since I don't chem meter anything and mix my acid rince when I set up in the morning it wasn't a problem. Then Dennis the mechanic figured it out and back to normal. I also bypassed all heat and overfill sensors and watched my machine myself
 

joeynbgky

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So glad I have propane and don't have to worry about dumping water.. How many gallons would you guys say you dump in a days work? Sometimes i need all the water i can get in my tank
 

floorguy

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i run propane to...but go through a ton o water....

i am glad you brought up the 2nd point, cuz i was gonna say it doesnt so much "dump" to the waste tank, as much as it gets sucked when it hits that temp....
 

XTREME1

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mine doesn't dump any and when I had a propane set up I liked it but I like the heat exchanger system better
 

Hoody

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Daniel,

Sounds like you want to take the water coming from the brass thermovalve off the water box back to the fresh water tank. The same system is on a Performer 405, and it is to protect the cat pump from hot water going through it. I attempted to re-divert the system to my fresh water tank because I had the same thought "Crap I'm bypassing a lot of water through there". I wasn't able to do it as someone already mentioned when the valve opens(its similar to a thermostat valve on a car) the vacuum is used to pull the water through. When the water temperature lowers back down it shuts.

Make sure you're checking all your check valves. One has a nut with a tiny pin hole through it. If that gets clogged it will cause your waterbox temp to go up, and cause the thermovalve to open and close a lot. Those thermovalves go out from time to time, and if that happens you'll end up blowing cat pump seals.

The Everest and Performer series are nearly the same layout and design, but on a bigger platform. Prochem did fix a few flaws in the earlier units when they brought out the Everest series though, and made them more user friendly.
 

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