Ok, I've checked and lubed every connection, rewired the float switches, tested the pump on a bench, gone through every inch of wiring. This is the freshwater transfer pump on a 98 4.7 CDS btw. Only thing I can think of is one of those little diodes under the dash is fried. Just replace? Rewire the whole stupid machine (it is a backup)?
Not getting Fresh water on an old CDS
- Thread starter Chris A
- Start date
Shane T
Member
You need to trace the 12 volt power and find where it stops.
Blue Monarch
Supportive Member
Exactly. Start at the pump connections and work back. I had this type of issue with my APO.
John Watson
Member
- Joined
- Oct 7, 2006
- Messages
- 2,885
So I guess you are having an electrical problem with your inlet side of your water system. Sounds like you have tested all elec componets and all check out OK??
You get water to the pump but you can't get the pump to turn on when the water box calls for water??
You might want to presureize the system with your garden hose by passing the pump to make sure rest of system is functioning the way it is supposed to. sounds like some sort of pressure switch malfunction.
Your question is not real clear to me.
If it is just your transfer pump, not getting power, run an alt power source. the pump should have its own pressue switch built in. Never knew HM or other TM installers to put diodes under the dash when something was wired somthing in, Fuses maybe.
Make a symple flow chart and should be an easy trace and elimination series. Did you call HM and ask their trouble shooters??
You get water to the pump but you can't get the pump to turn on when the water box calls for water??
You might want to presureize the system with your garden hose by passing the pump to make sure rest of system is functioning the way it is supposed to. sounds like some sort of pressure switch malfunction.
Your question is not real clear to me.
If it is just your transfer pump, not getting power, run an alt power source. the pump should have its own pressue switch built in. Never knew HM or other TM installers to put diodes under the dash when something was wired somthing in, Fuses maybe.
Make a symple flow chart and should be an easy trace and elimination series. Did you call HM and ask their trouble shooters??
Shane T
Member
I like to start at the power source and work from there to the pump with a 12 volt test light.
The CDS has six small "diodes" with about 6 wires apiece plugged in behind the control panel on the unit. Like I said, I bench tested the pump, and it works, I'm thinking it has to be that diode. I can hear it clicking when I move the float switches in the water box up and down. Hope that clears it up John. Why is this in the Slide-In room BTW?
Dolly Llama
Number 5
Chris, do you have 12vt test light to trace back as Shane suggested?
they're cheap, a couple/few bukz at Harbor freight is all they cost
you're welcome to borrow to mine too
..L.T.A.
they're cheap, a couple/few bukz at Harbor freight is all they cost
you're welcome to borrow to mine too
..L.T.A.
, not sure which. Also getting motivated to go out and look at it is becoming a challenge.
Blue Monarch
Supportive Member
c_adkins said:
I'm suffering from that right now too. Damn float in the waterbox can wait.
John Watson
Member
- Joined
- Oct 7, 2006
- Messages
- 2,885
Sorry I got confused 'those little diodes under the dash is fried." your terminoligy was a might missleading"The CDS has six small "diodes" with about 6 wires apiece plugged in behind the control panel on the unit"
Your diodes also sound like they function as limit switches if you are hearing them click.
Making a simple flow chart with each piece regardless where it is placed really does help simplfy the testing and flow process. It accenuates your process of elimination..
Good luck.
Your diodes also sound like they function as limit switches if you are hearing them click.
Making a simple flow chart with each piece regardless where it is placed really does help simplfy the testing and flow process. It accenuates your process of elimination..
Good luck.
Doug Cox
Supportive Member
Does your unit have a DEMA valve that is on the left side of the chemical box? It has 2 wires connected to it. If that doesn't operate, that MIGHT be a place to look, but I think they close when actuated instead of opening which leads to an overflowing chemical box. Just taking a guess.
actually I removed that valve, it seemed to only function to keep the water box from back-flowing. Your right Watson, I should have said RELAYS, that would have been more accurate. I'm gonna go out and screw with it today, got nothing else going on.
