Performer not performing

Newman

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Chris Newman
Unit: Older Performer 405

Condition: Runs for 3 to 10 minutes then shuts down. The status is the same running vac only or vac and pressure. It will restart every time. That beast runs strong, when it is running there are no misses, hiccups, coughs, sputters, or backfires. When that Nissan is running it kicks ass!

Since it will restart every time, I do not know how to test circuits for issues. Whatever causes it to shut down fixes itself when it quits?

Seems to not be fuel related. I am feeding the Performer with a Carter fuel pump I used on my race car. When it restarts it seems a little gassy with a quick puff of black smoke like it would if the ignition circuit shut off at full speed.

I inspected all wiring for loose connections. Checked all the grounds I could find.

If it was the ignition coil it would have to cool off to restart. Stumped in St. Charles...
 

Desk Jockey

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Have you checked the antifreeze level. If low, the unit runs until it gets hot and then the high temp sensor shuts her down. Once cooled she will start and run again only to shut off once hot. It can certainly be perplexing but an easy fix. Just add antifreeze.
 
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Lee Stockwell
The likely offending sensor is the 265 deg f. easily seen at the back of the head. One wire goes to the coil. If it reaches temp it closes and grounds the coil (like killing a lawnmower spark).

Do that just for diagnosis, then fix the cause.
 
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dgardner

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Chris, does it do the 3-10 minute thing even on the first start of the day, when the motor is stone cold, or only after it runs a while and is warm?
 
J

JS41035

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When it shuts down will it restart with the override turned?
Is the shaft that turns the diverter fully turned to the on position?
I would assume that if the unit stalls while running , but will run with the override switch held to the left, you have one of the following that are faulty.
Engine coolant temp shutoff. (Either the sensor is bad or the engine is actually over heating)
Oil pressure kill switch. (Or engine is low on oil)
Exhaust diverter linkage is not making contact with microswitch
Also check the high pressure and low pressure shutoff sensors if your unit still has those.
 

Newman

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Chris, does it do the 3-10 minute thing even on the first start of the day, when the motor is stone cold, or only after it runs a while and is warm?

Yes, from a stone cold start it will shut down after a short run time.

Thank you for the tips. I will wire my multi meter to the sensors you suggested and see which one is acting flaky.
 

Newman

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When it shuts down will it restart with the override turned?Yes it does
Is the shaft that turns the diverter fully turned to the on position?It is in contact with the microswitch
I would assume that if the unit stalls while running , but will run with the override switch held to the left, you have one of the following that are faulty.Will stall when running, but will immediately restart and stay running when the over ride switch is released
Engine coolant temp shutoff. (Either the sensor is bad or the engine is actually over heating)
Oil pressure kill switch. (Or engine is low on oil)
Exhaust diverter linkage is not making contact with microswitch Thank you for pin pointing a starting place!
Also check the high pressure and low pressure shutoff sensors if your unit still has those.
Do the high and low pressure sensors have an effect when running vac only?
 

Newman

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Disconnected the engine over temp safety switch and it still shut down. I went through wiggled and jiggled every wire trying to make it shut down. I could not cause it to shut down. I did fine a loose crimp connect. Primary power to key switch wire at the control panel. Replaced the connector and it still shut down.

Air trapped in the antifreeze system? I can not make sense of it but: Out of bordem I opened the catalytic exchanger bleeder valve and nothing came out for a while. Must have had alot of trapped air. Been running for a solid hour now. Engine overtemp switch is still disconnected.
 

dgardner

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The engine coolant sensor has been mentioned, but the schematic also shows a solution high-temp switch on the rear end of the engine exhaust hx. It is shown as wired directly to the - side of the coil, grounding out the ignition. Also a possibility if the problem persists.
 
J

JS41035

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Reconnect the engine temp switch. If it had tons of air in the helicoil that would definitely cause over heating. Leaving the high temp sensor unconnected will lead to several blown Nissan engines.
 
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Newman

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Reconnect the engine temp switch. If it had tons of air in the helicoil that would definitely cause over heating. Leaving the high temp sensor unconnected will lead to several blown Nissan engines.

Yes, engine temp switch reconnected.

I thank you all for your wisdom and guidance.
 

Newman

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The engine coolant sensor has been mentioned, but the schematic also shows a solution high-temp switch on the rear end of the engine exhaust hx. It is shown as wired directly to the - side of the coil, grounding out the ignition. Also a possibility if the problem persists.

I saw that too. Certainly could have been a culprit.
 

Newman

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If air in the system and overheating was the issue, why would it stall with the engine over temp sensor disconnected?

And if overheating was the issue, why would it restart and run immediately after shutting down?
 
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dgardner

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Either one of the temp switches could be failing and tripping at a lower temp. Once the engine quits and the temp falls a couple degrees it resets? A theory anyway....
 
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SamIam

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I've had issue's like others have said with a bad float causing problem's. Also the low pressure switch with the heat exchanger on kills the machine, the low pressure switch goes bad you can bypass it with a wire and machine will run fine just unplug it and hook a wire to the terminals in the plug. I've had to replace a 285 sensor when it starts going out it shuts the machine off at 220 then 200 it gets worse as it goes unchecked. Won't restart until it cools down.

Good news is you can take a wire 3 inches strip both ends and unplug each sensor and bypass the sensor this will help you trouble shoot what's killing the machine.
 

Desk Jockey

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I've had issue's like others have said with a bad float causing problem's. Also the low pressure switch with the heat exchanger on kills the machine, the low pressure switch goes bad you can bypass it with a wire and machine will run fine just unplug it and hook a wire to the terminals in the plug. I've had to replace a 285 sensor when it starts going out it shuts the machine off at 220 then 200 it gets worse as it goes unchecked. Won't restart until it cools down.

Good news is you can take a wire 3 inches strip both ends and unplug each sensor and bypass the sensor this will help you trouble shoot what's killing the machine.
Good tip. Jumper wire really helps ruling out what it isn't .

Gotta love Stockwell's. That family is just a class act!

Justin & Lee are so smart and quick witted. You two sure make me laugh! :lol:
 

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