pet odor teatment you like

Bucey

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FFA?
did some search for pass post on pet odor teatment didnt find much of help. Was wondering what products other use and do you really beleive in this stuff.

My question is how do you treat these homes and what has worked best for you. Im not looking for something to smell good when I leave I would like to find something that elliminates odor.
 

sweendogg

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There are no one size fits all solution to pet odor.

You basically have three ways of removing pet odor:

Odor Modifiers: bond with the odor causing molecules: aid in extraction and render the smell inert.

Enzymes: Break down and digest odor causing bacter/molecules, takes longer to work, but can have high success rate.

and

Oxidizers: perform a redox reaction that literally oxidizes the molecules reducing them down to less complex components that remove easier from the carpet:

Odor Modifier examples: Master Blend Skunk Out, Hydrocide, Odorcide 210, Quat alot and biocide, (to name a few)

Enzymes: Molecular Modifier, matrix bottom line, Odorx unduz it.

Oxidizers: OSR, Matrix Miracle, Pet Zone,

Different animal/stains contaminations respond to different treatments every Urine contamination will resond differently as well depending on dog diet and concentration of urine, length of time of contamination ext.

personally I prefer to start with a urine preconditioner in a pump up, spray liberally and saturate for fifteen minutes to being breaking down the urine salts, water claw and repeat to get a bulk of the material out of the carpet/pad/sufloor. If its a polyester, color safe nylon, or olefin, I'll use an oxidizer like Matris Miracle with a couple ounces of Odorcide.

I'll clean with the O2 system because it has some natural deoderizers like the sodium borate to santize and deoderize as well. After I've left the oxidizer work for 30 minutes, I'll extract and re assess. If I still smell anymore I'll hit with an enzyme treatment like Matrix Bottom line and wait fifteen minutes to extract out a good majority of the moisture, leaving it damp so the enzymes will continues to establish a colony to continue breaking down the odor causing microbes.

As long as the urine is concentrated, to a couple small areas, this system works well for me.
 

GeneMiller

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I pour a gallon or so of a Quat right in the middle when I first arrive. I clean it as usual, works every time on the odor. I will treat the yellow after cleaning with a product like stain zone, which is a strong peroxide solution and leave it

gene
 

Bucey

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ok, thanks, how about the oilly dog smell. or just the odor of dog dander and oils.


and the not often but ocassional cat odor?
 

sweendogg

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The method I described above is my pet odor removal for cat urine.. ( I hate the stuff). Dog urine is a heck of a lot easier to take care. Or at least it is for me. Most dander smells I've found are a lack of proper vacuuming.. vacuum to the dogs come home and O2 system takes care of almost all of the dog oils I've encountered.
 

tim

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As always Sweendog knows his stuff. To add to what he said, I like to boost my prespray with Energy from CTI to help break down the oils left from a dogs coat. I have a client with Bull Mastiffs and it works better than anything I have tried. I mix Hydracide and Quatalot with my OSR to get 3 different types of odor removal, Oxygen and Enzymes, Odor Pairing Agents, and Quat. Ammonia. It has never failed me yet.
 

ruff

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One addition though.
Sometime a good acid soak and rinse help dissolve the heavy alkaline salt build up from the urine.
I've had rugs soaked with enzymes and just for the hack of it followed with the acid soak and still got a lot more out.
 

juniorc82

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Sure you can clean the floor with several types of treatments for the odor. The real money is in identifying the soiled are (usualy by the door) and cutting out the bad piece of the pad . I got an extra $100 for doing this yesterday on a tiny 2x2 piece of pad that needed replaced. Plus I dont know if alot of companys do this so it might make you to be the specialist. :lol:
 

tim

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OSR treatment allows you to leave the pad and still make the $. More people go for it than removing pad. Most jobs will have several areas involved and topical treatment is less time consuming and less invasive than removing the pad. The secret is to make sure the water is above 180 degrees and saturate the entire affected area. Allow a full 30 to 45 minutes dwell time and you will become their hero. Try it yourself and you will get good at it and become the expert in your area.
 

ascrubabove

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I run into alot of custys with big dogs that have good house manors, but leave that greasy dog smell on the carpet, I mix 3 oz of quat in my regular hi ph enzyme juice and clean as usual, works great. If I find pee odor but cant pinpoint it, I will boost my spray with OSR (2 scoops mixed in bucket then poured into hf sprayer) let it dwell and clean. Pet odor boost charges apply 20-40 bucks
 

sweendogg

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juniorc82 said:
Sure you can clean the floor with several types of treatments for the odor. The real money is in identifying the soiled are (usualy by the door) and cutting out the bad piece of the pad . I got an extra $100 for doing this yesterday on a tiny 2x2 piece of pad that needed replaced. Plus I dont know if alot of companys do this so it might make you to be the specialist. :lol:


You can also uncover a lot more problems when pulling carpet back.. I've done several but only in situations when the home owner knew the risk of the expense ahead of time. And $100.00 doesn't cover the expense for pulling back and relacing pad.

For one: if the contamination is bad enough to require pad replacement , hopefully its at the edge so you don't have to pull back far. secondly by the time we encounter the problem the urine has oftedn started to break down the latexing and started to delaminate the carpet, making our jobs much more difficult. Now we have to clean the contamination and relatex the backing. If problem is in the middle of the room, you are now talking a full restretch in addition to larger areas of pad. also the sub floor should be sealed at very least if not treated and replaced if its damaged at all. replacing bad tackstrip on the outer areas and sealing baseboards that may have been contaminated. And restretching the carpet properly. My bill for these kinda of jobs depending on size can be a heck of a lot more than 100 dollars. For your 2x2 area to pull the carpet, seal the floor, new pad, replace tackstrip, deoderize and clean the carpet in that area, and reinstall, $250.00 may let me walk away with a profit.

Subsurface extraction with today's technology and chemistries save alot of expense and headache.. especielly if the animal is still in the home. Unless the floor is in desperate condition, pulling the pad should be a last resort, and if you do pull it don't do it half way. Seal the floor underneath to prevent future smells, and you still have to peform a full flood of the carpet to remove all of the urine.

kolfer1 said:
One addition though.
Sometime a good acid soak and rinse help dissolve the heavy alkaline salt build up from the urine.
I've had rugs soaked with enzymes and just for the hack of it followed with the acid soak and still got a lot more out.

Note the Urine preconditioner step above, Urine preconditioners are acid steps and are designed specifically to break down urine salts and deposits for extraction. All of my rugs start with this step, I switch between hydroxi acetic acid and Matrix Urine Preconditioner depending on what type of rug it is and how bad the contamintion is.
 

J Scott W

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Ryan, I have written a manual on how to deal with pet contamination (odor, stains and unsanitary conditions). I would be glad to email you a free copy. It is easiest for me to send as an email attachment. I just need your email address.

The offer is good to anyone else who asks. Please, put Pet odor or something similar in the subject line so I recognize what you want.

Scott W
 

juniorc82

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[q1uote="sweendogg"]
juniorc82 said:
Sure you can clean the floor with several types of treatments for the odor. The real money is in identifying the soiled are (usualy by the door) and cutting out the bad piece of the pad . I got an extra $100 for doing this yesterday on a tiny 2x2 piece of pad that needed replaced. Plus I dont know if alot of companys do this so it might make you to be the specialist. :lol:


You can also uncover a lot more problems when pulling carpet back.. I've done several but only in situations when the home owner knew the risk of the expense ahead of time. And $100.00 doesn't cover the expense for pulling back and relacing pad.

For one: if the contamination is bad enough to require pad replacement , hopefully its at the edge so you don't have to pull back far. secondly by the time we encounter the problem the urine has oftedn started to break down the latexing and started to delaminate the carpet, making our jobs much more difficult. Now we have to clean the contamination and relatex the backing. If problem is in the middle of the room, you are now talking a full restretch in addition to larger areas of pad. also the sub floor should be sealed at very least if not treated and replaced if its damaged at all. replacing bad tackstrip on the outer areas and sealing baseboards that may have been contaminated. And restretching the carpet properly. My bill for these kinda of jobs depending on size can be a heck of a lot more than 100 dollars. For your 2x2 area to pull the carpet, seal the floor, new pad, replace tackstrip, deoderize and clean the carpet in that area, and reinstall, $250.00 may let me walk away with a profit.

Subsurface extraction with today's technology and chemistries save alot of expense and headache.. especielly if the animal is still in the home. Unless the floor is in desperate condition, pulling the pad should be a last resort, and if you do pull it don't do it half way. Seal the floor underneath to prevent future smells, and you still have to peform a full flood of the carpet to remove all of the urine.

kolfer1 said:
One addition though.
Sometime a good acid soak and rinse help dissolve the heavy alkaline salt build up from the urine.
I've had rugs soaked with enzymes and just for the hack of it followed with the acid soak and still got a lot more out.

Note the Urine preconditioner step above, Urine preconditioners are acid steps and are designed specifically to break down urine salts and deposits for extraction. All of my rugs start with this step, I switch between hydroxi acetic acid and Matrix Urine Preconditioner depending on what type of rug it is and how bad the contamintion is.[/quote]
I wasnt talking about replacing the whole pad, I meant just a small area. The one I just did was only bad by the door so I only had to replace a 2x2 foot piece so yes it did cover the expense took me an extra 40 mins so the 100 was worth it
 

ACE

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I want to know what the bigger multi truck ops here are doing for pet odor. I never see them weigh in on the issue. I know they have to keep it simple so are most likely using only one product.
 

sweendogg

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A couple of the big truck companies that we know up by chicago like to use bottom line/ urine preconditioner combo with spot claw. Tech's can't over mix or use an oxidizer where it doesn't belong. Enzymes are pretty safe and pretty effective as well.
 

-JB-

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a five gallon pail of gasoline and a match, works EVERY time.

Arson.gif
 

Derek

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i don't claim to effectively remove feline urine contamination...so JB's method works for me.



but i will do canine urine contamination, and the only product i like is UR Out from CCS...http://store.ccsop.com/catalog/prod...id=49&osCsid=883e8fbaa41abbf3855250c6d959fa0c

granted i havent tried but only a few of the other products on the market for canine urine contamination. but UR Out is "Bio-Based" and works fantastic for me...and it is priced very reasonably & cleans carpet very well, as a side bonus. dwell time is the key.

bigurout.JPG
 

Larry Cobb

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You can combine an oxidizer, with an oxygen-stable actual enzyme,
to obtain even better results.

This is the combo we use in our Odor Attack Powder.
http://www.cobbcarpet.com/dynachem.html

Works better than either single-component, when you are promising results.

Larry

P.S. I also like a strong UV LED light to pinpoint the problem areas.
 

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