PH for Teflon

[CleanEvo]

There's been some discussion recently about emulsifier rinses vs. acid rinses.

If I use an emulsifier rinse like Dry Slurry, diluted to half what the manufacturer recommends, and metering it low at 2GPH. Will that create a problem for the Teflon?

I've been really happy with the results lately, but if it's going to create a long term issue with my clients who buy protectant, I need to know about it.

 

[Larry Cobb]

CleanEvolve;

The best procedure for "protector application" is:

1. Prespray all the carpet.

2. Extract with soft or RO water.

That leaves the least residue...

which provides the best protection (assuming a solvent-based protector).

Larry

 

[Greenie]

I put this under the heading "It's not what you put down, it's what you leave behind".

Dry Slurry is a quality product, assuming you are getting good extraction, and doing a thorough rinse of your Prespray, you are leaving a very small % of your rinse chemistry behind at 2gph, and especially using 1/2 Mfgs. recommendations.

I think you have nothing to worry about.

 

[Loren Egland]

At the last Connections I attended, when asked the question if a cleaner should use an acid rinse or acid after spray on the carpet before the cleaner applies the protection, the fellow at connections from either DuPont or 3M (I forget which) answered it didn't matter.

Don't worry about it. Just get the carpet its cleanest and then spray and groom in the protection.

 

[Shawn Forsythe]

While I am certain that there is an "optimum" pH, and it is probably a tad on the acid side, the reality is that if you are using a product consistent with textile(carpet) manufacturer recommendations pertaining to acidity and alkalinity, then the unbuffered residue left behind by a properly performed restorative cleaning is sufficient to set up the fiber for adequate bonding an curing of the addition of most carpet protectors. The most important part is that you follow the usage instructions for the particular product you are applying.

All of the available application literature from the manufacturers of Teflon and Scotchgard make no specific mention of pH. So it's safe to presume that if you follow the established standard of care (e.g. IICRC S-100 & specifics of carpet warranty), then just follow the protector label.

 

[Jim Pemberton]

Test your protector on a freshly cleaned surface the way that you currently clean it, and test it with whatever way you are told to, or thought you ought to have cleaned it, and decide for yourself.

In my experience, residues are the problem; if you remove as much residue as possible and practical, the carpet will read near neutral anyway, and the protection will work.

If you leave *CRAP in the carpet, it won't.

Chemical
Residues
Allowed to
Persist

That acronym was courtesy of the late Walt Lipscomb.