Playdough/dyes on natural fibers

[Matthew Sturgis]

Recently I cleaned 4 upholstered chairs. Mrs. Pffft (why do we call her that?) said that the grandson spilt playdough on the chair.
I was able to burn test the 3D fibers, the fibers that make the "grid", and it ashed. I was able to lighten the stain with All solv/avenge pro.

What would you do next?

I offered to go a step further with oxidizers/reducers and warned her of the risk. She declined.

The next week I had a stain on what looked to be cotton. The stain would not budge with the allsolve/avenge pro combo. Same story, lady did not want to risk the fabric.

Can I use an oxidizer on cotton ever? Should I dilute it? Can I use red relief and a steam iron on cotton?

I think I need to take another upholstery class. Anyone ever take Joey Pickett's class?

 

[Larry Cobb]

Here is a before/after photo posted today by Jerry W. on Facebook carpet cleaners group.
It was Blue slime removed w/ Dynachem CitraGreen used straight.
It has a pH of 9.5 , but does have d'Limonene solvent.


http://www.cobbcarpet.com/zen/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=65&products_id=5344

P.S. @hogjowl , the results photo was for you.

 

[DAT]

@Jim Pemberton

 

[Jim Pemberton]

The use of oxidizers on cellulose fibers (cotton and linen) and regenerated cellulose fibers (rayon, viscose, acetate) can be a problem. Anything stronger than 3% hydrogen peroxide will deteriorate the fibers to the point where they will split.

Reducing agents are safer, but can sometimes create odd color reactions, especially on prints.

In either case, keep the problem your customer's problem, not yours, and proceed with care.

Joey Pickett has a great class, and he's not far from you. You'll enjoy Joey's down to earth nature, and encylopedic knowledge of textile cleaning.

If you don't need certification ( I parted ways with the IICRC some years ago because of disagreements I have with their training model), I would be happy to have you come to one of my classes. I focus on stain removal and restoration of color and texture problems in delicate natural fibers.

 

[Jim Williams]

I can't for the life of me understand why so many people buy cotton dining room chairs. There will be many times in your career when you just have to be upfront with the customer and let her know that stain removal on natural fibers is very limited. A solvent like Larry suggested would be about as risky as I would get. Many times Play Doh will desolve but you may leave some dye behind. Trust me, it's better to not try and be a super hero than to turn Mrs. Pilfs cotton a different color.

 

[ruff]

I am willing to bet that Larry's solvent (used as described,) will lighten the area it is used on (Halo) on natural fibers.

 

[Larry Cobb]

It is a prespray with a pH of 9.5

plus some citrus solvent.

If tested 1st, extracted & dried, I would not expect it to cause a problem.

--------------

On natural fibers, I like reducing powders for dyes.

 

[Papa John]

those type of chairs are very easy to re-upholster. just screw the four or six screws holding seat to frame. remove the staples, use current fabric as a template, make new cover with polyester fabric. staple to seat board, reinstall seat.

 

[Ron K]

I am willing to bet that Larry's solvent (used as described,) will lighten the area it is used on (Halo) on natural fibers.

Whenever "spotting upholstery it is safer to clean the entire piece/cushon/arm/.... to avoid the Halo effect.

 

[ruff]

Yes indeed, Ron.
Only problem is it may lighten the whole piece in comparison to the other pieces.
Still better than a halo, depending on client's perfectionism level.

 

[Matthew Sturgis]

The use of oxidizers on cellulose fibers...

Do you ever have success using 3% peroxide? I guess I can do some math on cobbs brightener and get it to a safe dissolution. I'll wait till after I've had some coffee to figure that out.
I took a couple classes that Joey taught last month and he mentioned that he taught an upholstery class. The convenience of having Joey close by is great. Where abouts are you located? I have read nothing good things on here about your class. I am planning on attending. Just don't know when.
Oh, and not to start a IICRC flame-athon, but I am not worried about credits. I just want knowledge and hands on experience. So I can go out in to the real world and make some more $$$.

Trust me, it's better to not try and be a super hero than to turn Mrs. Pilfs cotton a different color.

You are absolutely right. It's just frustrating looking at that stain after you're done. I guess more important is the thing you said about being upfront about natural fibers. That shows that you're knowledgeable v. feeling like a hack because you could not get the stain out.

those type of chairs are very easy to re-upholster.

It is good to keep things in perspective. I just wanted to see if there was anything I could have done besides using stainzone full strength and red rescue with a streamer which was my next idea. I have a hard time going slow enough/being delicate enough with stains like this on natural fibers. I clean so much synthetic carpet everyday that I have become used to nuking stains like this and getting away with it. And then I want to transfer those techniques to upholstery. I think I am going to market upholstery this year and see if I can get some more experience with different fabrics.

 

[Jim Pemberton]

Do you ever have success using 3% peroxide?

Yes. But you need to be patient. It often takes hours to know for sure.

. I just wanted to see if there was anything I could have done besides using stainzone full strength and red rescue with a streamer which was my next idea. I have a hard time going slow enough/being delicate enough with stains like this on natural fibers.

Stain Zone is a great product on synthetic fibers. Its nearly a guaranteed "hole in the fabric" for anything with cellulose fibers. It may not show up while you do it, but one day Mrs Broadinthebutt will plop down on it and the tear will occur.

I clean so much synthetic carpet everyday that I have become used to nuking stains like this and getting away with it. And then I want to transfer those techniques to upholstery

Joey and I agree on many things, and my guess is that he will tell you what I will:

You will never be able to have the same success in removing stains from natural fiber fabrics as you can with carpet. You can get better at it, but part of becoming an upholstery cleaning expert is teaching your clients that such fabrics need to be treated with care. Fabric protector on upholstery is far more important than carpet protector on carpet for that very reason.

 

[J Scott W]

For a safe oxidizer on natural fibers, you can use regular drug store hydrogen peroxide or you can dilute StainZone with about 2 parts distilled water. You will then be at a safe level of oxidizer and get the benefit of some of the other ingredients in the StainZone.

Jim P mentioned one of the key elements of stain removal. Something that I often try to stress - PATIENCE! It may require several attempts with less aggressive stain removers on natural fabrics. Don't rush it.

The goal with upholstery is always to improve the staining as much as possible without damaging the fabric, color, appearance or texture. Often the final desired result is something less than 100% perfect.

 

[Mikey P]

3% with the uph peice out in the full sun, on average it takes an hour

 

[Mikey P]

On a hot day you may need to re wet every 20 minutes or so

 

[Ron K]

3% with the uph peice out in the full sun,

Some of us live where the weather is actually nice and not Smokey!
At least not forest smoke.

 

[Mikey P]

We have over 300 sunny days a year.

 

[Bob Pruitt]

I tell my customers the stain is likely permanent. I then say I will do what I can to make it better than it was. That’s it. So far everyone has been happy with the improvement.

 

[Matthew Sturgis]

3% with the uph peice out in the full sun, on average it takes an hour

Alright so when I see natural fabric upholstery that's where I will start. Then let it sun soak while I do the rest.

I tell my customers the stain is likely permanent. I then say I will do what I can to make it better than it was. That’s it. So far everyone has been happy with the improvement.

I agree, pre-qualifying a job like this is the most important part. Regardless of how much of the stain you remove, at least your customers expectations have been set appropriately.