Shane T
Member
Many of us who own these units have had to replace this part numerous times. It's very expensive and sometimes only last a matter of months. I know John's guys at Superior have been working on an alternative and now I've come up with a solution that I think will also be satisfactory. I had my welder put in another 1/2" SS coupling in the mix tank. It is located at the same depth as the bottom float on the original float switch assembly.
I bought two of these float switches from Grainger and installed one into the added fitting in the tank and the other in an unused fitting near the top of the tank.
I wired them just like the original and it works great. I also installed these vibration isolators under the tank. http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/Cylind ... Pid=search
Time will tell if they last any longer but even if they don't at less than $17 each it won't be as painful.
I bought two of these float switches from Grainger and installed one into the added fitting in the tank and the other in an unused fitting near the top of the tank.
I wired them just like the original and it works great. I also installed these vibration isolators under the tank. http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/Cylind ... Pid=search
Time will tell if they last any longer but even if they don't at less than $17 each it won't be as painful.