Running rinse in freshwater tank

BIG WOOD

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A 10 gallon rinse tank beside your machine will give you enough rinse aid to go a very long time during the day. There are some acids that are too strong and can eat the metal. Dynachem's acid rinse was one of them. Pissed me off when my HF screwed up shortly after I used it as my urine treatment. I know if you put it in your 100 gallon tank, there's a much weaker dilution compared to my HF, but I think you should focus on keeping it last step. @sassyotto aren't you the one that cleans with a ridiculous low psi and cooler water also? I think if you clean with the opposite, you might not need as much of a rinse agent anyway
 

Kenny Hayes

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It’s only stupid if the machine design or chemical formulation or both in combination create an issue.

I’m just the guy who sees what happens in our service department.

Talk to the guys who make your machine and who make the stuff you turn through it.
Nope, even if you’re just reporting the news, you said it, it’s gospel🤷🏼‍♂️😬
 
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Cleanworks

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Last step is always a good way to go and it allows you to vary your rinse according to the job. For regular cleaning, a well formulated and well mixed alkaline extraction detergent should not hurt anything. What do you think we use in our portable machines? Because of the difference in power from a truck mount to a portable, we depend more on the chemical action of our products to clean. We use alkaline presprays and rinse with alkaline rinses (or extraction detergent) to get the best results. A truck mount with the added heat, pressure and flow will clean better with less aggressive products. Where a lot of carpet cleaners get into trouble is not mixing powders thoroughly and not maintaining their equipment. Descaling is not just for hard water scale it is also for detergent build up. I often run cleaning vinegar (10% acetic acid) through my truck mounts and portables. It's amazing to see the soap gunk come out. It's the same as getting the soap scum off your shower walls. Don't do your maintenance? I'm sure Jim won't mind a visit with you.
 

rwcarpet

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It’s only stupid if the machine design or chemical formulation or both in combination create an issue.

I’m just the guy who sees what happens in our service department.

Talk to the guys who make your machine and who make the stuff you turn through it.


As a customer of JP, and having bought at least 3 TM's from him, he has seen the best and the worse of machines in his shop. And I've seen some real dogs there while attending class or picking up a new machine.

40+ years of cleaning with TM's has taught me that last step injection is the best route to go. If you use a rinse at all.
If you were to try to add to your freshy tank, which in most cases is 120 gallons, you'd never get the consistency because each fill up is usually a partial fill. I usually never get back to the shop with an empty tank. And you can control the strength with metering.

Now, when I ran a Powermatic, it's injection was pre-heater, which contributed to scale coil buidup. MeAt could explain more in detail, since I believe he still runs Powermatics.

Just my experience.
 
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sassyotto

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@sassyotto aren't you the one that cleans with a ridiculous low psi and cooler water also? I think if you clean with the opposite, you might not need as much of a rinse agent anyway
400 psi at 190-200 degrees here.

I do however rinse with clear water only. dont use the chem system

I have tried all types of things in the chem system. Emulsifiers, rinse agents, alkaline agents, you name it. I just found that the carpet stays clean longer flushed with clear water. Just my opinion.

Still, I would never add anything to my Fresh Water Tank, even though others here have. I ran a Prochem Apex for 12 years and you could take off any connection and there was never any scale buildup. Descaled once (moron mechanic did it without my authorization) but the key is the water softener.
 

rwcarpet

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Robert Hodge
400 psi at 190-200 degrees here.

I do however rinse with clear water only. dont use the chem system

I have tried all types of things in the chem system. Emulsifiers, rinse agents, alkaline agents, you name it. I just found that the carpet stays clean longer flushed with clear water. Just my opinion.

Still, I would never add anything to my Fresh Water Tank, even though others here have. I ran a Prochem Apex for 12 years and you could take off any connection and there was never any scale buildup. Descaled once (moron mechanic did it without my authorization) but the key is the water softener.

The key here?........Water softener. Gotta have one.
 

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