Skunk spray dog, dog run into house and tries to get spray off

dealtimeman

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by rubbing himself all over the carpet and floors. And then jumps onto couch rubbing over both couches.

What would you do and why.
 
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Chris A

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Mine got sprayed back in the spring, summabitch still smells when he gets wet, luckily I caught him when he came in the door
 

Zee

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Whatever you do....do NOT use masterblend's skunk stuff. That is possibly the worst smelling chemical in our industry. It makes me gag...but maybe it's just me.
 

GeneMiller

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I use my regular spray with an odorcide boost.. Not sure if it would work, never seen it. If that didn't work I might try hydrocide.

Gene
 

Jimmy L

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I would get rid of the dog and then contact my insurance agent to replace the carpet etc.
Maybe throw the dog in back of the pick up truck and drop him off in the next town.
 

Zee

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A half decent bitch would be back at the house by next morning.




Except Jimmy's house. The dog would be like "hellllllll yeeeah, I got rid of my hooman.. Finally!"
 
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Jimmy L

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Keeping animals in a house is stupid. Unhealthy and dangerous.

We americans are perhaps the only people who treat our dogs and cats as if they were human and part of the family.
No wonder our society sucks.
 

Louis

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My dog sleeps in our bed every night. no couch privileges. She travels with us sometimes to Carmel. A very dog friendly town. She is a 62lb rescue. Kids say I like her more.

I remember growing up hearing about the tomato juice bath for the dog. Poor dogs.
 

Jim Pemberton

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I get asked to do this every year because I'm seen as the local "nature nut" in my community. The fact that I sell stuff that could help is secondary to my neighbors.

The dog is in agony when its sprayed. Dog's have an incredibly powerful sense of smell, and the spray of the skunk is more like a squirt, and that liquid when in the dog's eyes and nose is more like pepper spray would be to us than just "a stink bomb".

When the dog gets into the house, it will rub its head on soft places like carpet and upholstery (and/or its owner's body) in an effort to find relief from the pain. Those areas that have been directly contacted by the oily fluid from the skunk need to be treated. Since the fluid is clear, and the dog experiencing the pain has likely run and rubbed in more places that you can keep track of, it helps to spray the treatment of your choice on the carpet, furniture, and lower walls.

I've used Mikey's formula (Larry's makes sense because peroxide is what does the real work here), and LiquaZone from Prorestore ("Unsmoke"). I have had more success with LiquaZone, but that might be my "supplier prejudice" coming into play.
 

dgardner

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Since the fluid is clear, and the dog experiencing the pain has likely run and rubbed in more places that you can keep track of, it helps to spray the treatment of your choice on the carpet, furniture, and lower walls.
Jim, does the spray fluoresce, allowing it to be seen with a UV light? I suppose that would be too easy...
 

Mark Saiger

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A product I used just a month ago for same situation....and we did clean everything for soft goods such as carpets and upholstery and treated with this...

I also sprayed off the sidewalks and area, and also cleaned and power washed some screens that the odor was on too we though...

Also, had the clients close the windows because the odor was outside the house in the grass and area, so that odor was causing odor inside too...

This product Smells like Bubble gum.... I have used odorcide in the past too though....Liked this product for smell better, and it did work...so made us all happy :)

http://www.hcronline.com/assets/skunk-out-tech.pdf

http://www.hcronline.com/assets/skunk-out-sds.pdf
 

Jim Pemberton

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Jim, does the spray fluoresce, allowing it to be seen with a UV light? I suppose that would be too easy...

I'm not aware if it does. There doesn't appear to be anything in the oil's chemical make up to make it show up under UV light, but I could be wrong. When I get my next one to do I'll check.

Skunk smell isn't hard to neutralize, as its chemically very simple: You just need a chemical that neutralizes mercaptan.

Urine, odors from incomplete combustion (fire), odors from biological growth and decay are all much harder to treat because there is a variety of odor causing mechanisms in play.
 

J Scott W

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Article -

Skunk Season

Depending on the climate in your area, you may already be into skunk season, the time of year when skunks can be found roaming around the suburbs, taking up dwelling in crawl spaces and occasionally tangling with dogs, people and your customer's homes.

Skunks do not hibernate, but they do tend to go into a dormant state during the winter, especially in colder climates. They make or find a warm den they share with other skunks to keep warm until early spring. Skunks can be active year around in the warmest climates.

Spring is the start of mating season - this may be anywhere from mid-march to late April depending upon where you are located. Males spend this time roaming in search of females. Once mated, the females have about a 2 month gestation period before the young are born in mid-May to June. During this period, they look for a warm place to stay. Crawl spaces can be a convenient nesting spot.

The young stay with the females for up to 1 year. The females are very protective when accompanied by their kits. So encounters with dogs or people can have memorable consequences. When dogs are sprayed, it is extremely irritating. They will run to find a suitbale place to try and gently rubb off the offending liquid - yoour sofa for example.

Many home remedies exist, but few work well. The exception would be a hydrogen peroxide mixture known as Krebaum's formula. This can be used on some surfaces but will damage others. Tomato juice is out, but it can provide some opportunities to remove the stains and mess it causes.

If one of your client's calls for help with a skunk odor problem, be sure they also check with their insurance agent. Home-owners policies may provide coverage once the deductible is met.

Here are some additional details plus suggestions on how to deal with these unpleasant, penetrating odors, including how to mix and use Krebaum's formula.

Skunk odor is caused by a highly odorous oily secretion that the skunk uses as a defense mechanism. The odor comes from sulfur compounds known as thiols (formerly called mercaptans) and thioacetate derivatives of these thiols. Different species of skunk produce slightly different variations of these compounds. The odor of thiols can be detected in concentrations as low as 10 - 20 parts per trillion!

In order to neutralize the odor of skunk spray, the chemicals in the secretion must be changed to a different type of molecule that does not produce an odor. These thiols or mercaptans are best neutralized by oxidization. Oxidizing the thiols forms odorless sulfonic acid. Hydrogen peroxide and chlorine bleach work as the oxidizers but are not appropriate for all situations. Ozone is another powerful oxidizer that is appropriate in some situations.

There is no single remedy for skunk odor. Depending on the surfaces affected, it may require a variety of methods and several steps to remove the odor completely. The type of surface you are dealing with will determine the procedure and chemicals that you use in removing skunk odor. Not all recommendations are safe on all fabrics or surfaces. Chose the products and methods suitable for the fabrics you are deodorizing.

Ventilate the area well before during and after the deodorization process.

GENERAL PROCEDURE

Textiles

STEP 1
Remove sources of odor. Items of low value such as some used clothing, old blankets, camping gear, etc. are more easily replaced than restored, especially if insurance coverage is in place. If the fabric is colorfast, clothing or bedding can be soaked in a solution of 1 cup of chlorine laundry bleach per gallon of water for about 20 minutes and then laundered. The items to be treated should be in the water loosely to allow the bleach solution to circulate.

STEP 2
Apply a saturation spray of Hydrocide Extreme diluted according to label directions. This can be used on any fabric than can be gotten wet.

STEP 3
Clean carpet or upholstery with a method suitable for the fiber and construction. If the material received a direct or strong application of skunk spray, boost your prespray with 1 ounce of Bridgepoint’s Citrus Solv and 1 ounce of Boost All per gallon of water. Boost All is a great oxidizer. It can also be added to your rinse water if needed.

STEP 4
Repeat step 2 if required. Rinse.

NOTE
Some items may need to be treated with ozone which is a strong oxidizer. This is best accomplished in the controlled environment of an ozone chamber rather than on location. Ozone can harm natural rubber, latex and some soft plastic.

Hard Surfaces

STEP 1
Apply a solution of chlorine bleach diluted at one cup per gallon of water to the contaminated area. This can be wiped on or sprayed. Pre-test in an inconspicuous area first. Bleach is harmful to some surfaces and may cause color loss or corrosion to metals.

For some surfaces you may elect to use what is known as Krebaum’s formula - One qt. of 3% hydrogen peroxide, ¼ cup baking soda and a spoonful of liquid detergent. This should be boosted this with 4 ounces of Hydrocide Extreme. Krebaum’s formula is appropriate for most unfinished surfaces in a crawl space such as cement block walls, floor joists and underside of subfloor. Do not use on finished surfaces.

STEP 2
Rinse with clear water. You may rinse and extract with a hard surface tool such as the SX-15 where practical.

NOTE – It may be beneficial to install a dry vapor deodorization system such as the Vapor Shark by Vaportek in the area you are deodorizing. This can be installed at the start of a project to begin knocking down odor immediately and to make the environment more pleasant for you and your crew. This provides an immediate pleasant fragrance and helps to eliminate odors in the air space. Use the 3X Industrial cartridge or membrane. Another option is to use a Hot / thermal Fogger.

Air Space

STEP 1
The biggest improvement will be made by bringing in fresh air and removing stale air full of bad odors. Air movers in a window or doorway help. A diluted solution of Spice Air or Lemon Fresh Deodorant can also be misted into the air to help knock down odors.

Hydrocide Extreme is not limited to use on skunk odors. It is a powerful deodorizer that absorbs, binds to, surrounds and encapsulates odor molecules. This happens as soon as it contacts an odor molecule. Once encapsulated, the odor molecule no longer can trigger the sensation of smell when it reaches the nerve endings in our nose.
 
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Tomato juice didn't work on our dog, who evidently encouraged every skunk in the county to spray her with her "perfume of choice" - SEVEN times one summer! We couldn't afford that much tomato juice and it was only minimally effective. What did eventually work was a bacterial/enzyme solution. It "ate" the oil in the skunk spray and we were able to let our dog back inside within a couple of hours. Never had it in the carpet, but I assume you'd use the same principle as treating heavy cat urine, which is also oil-based.
 
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Jim Pemberton

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Tomato juice didn't work on our dog, who evidently encouraged every skunk in the county to spray her with her "perfume of choice" - SEVEN times one summer! We couldn't afford that much tomato juice and it was only minimally effective. What did eventually work was a bacterial/enzyme solution. It "ate" the oil in the skunk spray and we were able to let our dog back inside within a couple of hours. Never had it in the carpet, but I assume you'd use the same principle as treating heavy cat urine, which is also oil-based.

Sadly, tomato juice as a remedy is somewhat discredited, as you've already learned it seems :(
 

mirf

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The good news is it sounds like the dog took a direct hit. Means he will probably leave skunks alone from now on.
 

dealtimeman

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so i went by for the quote today and it wasn't bad at all. should clean up pretty easy with a thorough cleaning. and a light odorcide application on the backside if necessary.
 

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