Some tips for new (and old) TM owners- by Lisa Smith/Lydon

Mikey P

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Knowing your TM's systems- how they work - where they are routed, etc. and how to diagnose and work on them is invaluable in the field. Being able to make a repair on the fly can save you hundreds, even thousands of dollars in lost jobs/man hours, down time, repair shop bills, etc. Keeping a good tool kit and ample parts and supplies to do small repairs is a wise investment:

I have always maintained that if you are going to run a TM you need to be at least somewhat mechanically inclined. Most of your problems were fairly simple and something you could take care of yourself either on the jobsite or at home in the afternoon with minimal tools.

It is true that you expect a new unit to run reliably, but there are often little bugs that must be worked out. To me it is easier and cheaper in the long run to do it myself and avoid pulling off a job, rescheduling one or more day's work, the long drive you must make to the distributor, etc.

If you aren't mechanically gifted...LEARN THE BASIC SYSTEMS OF YOUR UNIT! (fuel, electrical harness, coolant, water supply/delivery, vacuum, power transfer, heat generation, etc.) and trace them all down.

Identify key components...especially those touchy electrical safety/solenoid operated switches. Keep common failure parts on the truck, along with a small tool kit, electrical connectors, heat wrap, electrical/duct tape, wire, oil, carb cleaner, spare fuel/air filters, a universal fuel pump, a pcv valve, assorted nuts, bolts and clamps, jumper cables (and if you have a slide-in make sure the cables are long enough to reach from the truck battery to the mount's battery AND that the mount's battery can turn the truck over if it HAS to.) spare belts/hoses, filters for your solution line, one or two jets, a wand valve repair kit, teflon tape, GOOD flashlight, spare batteries for said flashlight, sandpaper, a wire brush, common brass fittings, spare ball valves and QD's.

One thing I found particularly handy was a small Fluke meter for diagnosing the all-too-common electrical problems. Another one of my favorite emergency repair kit items is Silicone Tape. It is a little hard to find, but it's awesome stuff for a quick fix on vac hose leaks, small solution line leaks, a temporary repair on a cracked fitting, etc. It is thick, black, squishy tape that stretches immensely, and sticks to itself, but virtually nothing else. You would be surprised how well it works on a small pressure line leak, and the heat doesn't bother it.

(the following advice is geared primarily to slide-in units, and the poster's particular problems)

If your newer mount won't turn over there are usually four major areas that might be causing the problem:

1. Lack of fuel - you said you primed it, but considering they recently messed with the fuel systems, perhaps there is a problem here somewhere. Are you CERTAIN gas is reaching the carb? If not look for easy to fix probs first (clogged filter, air in the lines from a small leak, possibly the fuel pick up tube came loose in the tank, etc.). Is the fuel pump functioning? You should be able to hear it hum when you turn the key on. The lead may have come loose from it so a quick fix to hook the wire back up and you are on the road again. Stupid as it sounds, is the van very low on gas? Even if you filled up recently, check it in case someone siphoned out your tank.

2. Are you getting spark? Test for spark, look for loose connections. Pull the plugs to see if they are fouled for some reason. Electrical problems, including bad grounds are a very common minor malfunction.

3. Is the engine able to breathe sufficiently? check for a fouled air filter (I had one foul quickly when I got oil from the crankcase ventilation tube pushing into my air filter. Just in case....check the crankcase oil level.

4. An all-to-common problem with the newer mounts is one of those safety shut-off switches sticking on or off and not allowing the machine to be started...locate all of them and check them. Those stupid solenoid operated switches/valves are NOTORIOUS for failing. Carry spares in the van, along with any Dema (sp?) valves that are on your unit. Check the one that shuts the unit down if there isn't sufficient water in the box...super common failure part. Replace it or bypass it until you can get spare parts. Sometimes the float sticks on the waterbox too, falsely tripping the safety. Make sure your water supply is on a flowing freely ( I once had a kid turn the water off at the hose bib during a job, talk about being perplexed!).

Bet you can fix it yourself, in less than an hour in the driveway.

Worse come to worse, if you run a slide in, many lawnmower/tractor/farm implement/motorcycle repair places have talented mechanics that can work on most motors in a pinch....I found a local lawnmower repair guy that could even fix a lot of the other systems on my mount. Better to drive 15 minutes than 2+ hours. It also pays to know where the local industrial hose sales/repair shop is, if they have the dies to do YOUR hoses, and if they have comparable hose in stock to replace blown assemblies. Fittings/lines/components near HX's and burners take a lot of abuse, same with wiring.

Learn your new mount inside out and you will find these problem soon turn from MAJOR problems into minor annoyances.

Oh yes!!! Don't forget to carry a jar of GoJo and some rags to clean your hands after working on the mount....Mrs. Piffleton doesn't want you to clean her fine textiles with dirty, greasy hands!!

GOOD LUCK!!!

Take care,
Lisa
 

Al

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Oct 9, 2006
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I would add duck tape and WD-40 to the list. but that's just me.
 

Jimbo

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Oct 7, 2006
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Very good post, Lisa! ON #1 I would add to make sure there is a seperate ground wire going to the fuel pump...too often there is a dependance on using a metal bond thru the chassis of the vehicle...and it sometimes will fail to actually provide a correct neutral and the pump will stop.

Jim
 

Jimmy L

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Jimmy L
A package of a stop leak product is nice too.
Get it at a hardware store or auto parts place.
Its gray and resembles silly putty.
You have to work it with your hands to activate it and once activated you put it on a radiator leak and it seals it.
 

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