Spots coming back

Joined
Jun 20, 2016
Messages
6,242
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Bc
Name
Jeff T
Well, you guys are .5 %ers.
We're just in the 2% range.
Over how many jobs?
My recalls are 90% ‘the dog pissed on the same spot again’..
I only go back and reclean because I like having clients, and not customers...
How do I know?
The bullseye tells all under black light...
The other 10% are, it’s a trashed rental, and the only other option is 5 gallons of gas and a match...
 

Mikey P

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The High Chapperal
14. Animal Stains and Odors

Dogs and cats may be our best friends, but they’re not necessarily the best friends of our carpeting, draperies, and upholstery.

Urine: There are two types of reactions that can take place between the chemicals in an animal's urine and those in the dyes and fibers of textile furnishings. The first type of reaction is immediately noticeable. Some textile dyes change color as soon as urine comes into contact with them.
The other type of reaction develops slowly over several days or months and can result in permanent changes to the dyes and fiber. In many cases, this type of damage can only be seen with the aid of a Black/UV light. Not only can the dye change, but some fibers may become weakened or destroyed as the urine ages and decomposes. The decomposing urine can also produce an objectionable odor. After cleaning, these areas are more obvious because the soils which hid the changed color and damaged fibers have been removed. Also, dyes weakened by urine can be removed or bleed during professional cleaning.
After cleaning, the area may still glow when observed under UV light. (Actually, the correct term is “fluoresce”—the treated area is reflecting the UV light back to your eyes as visible light.) This fluorescing is not due to the presence of urine in that spot, but from phosphorous left over from the breakdown of phosphocreatine. During that process the phosphorous becomes chemically bonded to the fibers as a dye would. Just like a dye, the phosphorous is now part of the surface of the fibers, and it is quite difficult to remove without damaging the existing dyes on those fibers.

Feces: Pet feces is easier to remove than urine. Compact deposits can be quickly removed with a plastic scraper or spatula. The surface should then be cleaned with the standard spotting solution and blotted dry. Refer to the spotting steps below for further information and techniques. Follow this treatment with a sanitizer recommended by your IICRC Certified Cleaner or veterinarian.
Loose feces require the same clean-up procedure as described below for fresh urine removal. This should also be followed with an application of disinfectant.
If your pets' food or treats contain red dye to make them look meatier, red discoloration may remain at the site of the accident. Your IICRC Certified Cleaner may be able to remove this, but with caution as many red food dyes are nearly identical to fabric dyes and some color loss may be unavoidable.

A IICRC Certified Professional Cleaner will have methods available to minimize the discoloration, disinfect the area, and reduce the smell. It is often impossible to completely restore the original appearance of a textile furnishing that has been damaged with aged pet urine, especially if homeowners attempt to remove the urine using the wrong products or methods. .







Care Tips: Use a wet/dry vacuum for the initial pick up of urine and loose feces and to extract spotting and rinsing agents.
Place a damp white cotton towel over affected areas to keep the accident from drying if the spot cannot be cleaned right away Be aware that some disinfectants and oxy products may cause discoloration of textile furnishings and carpet if not fully rinsed and neutralized.


1. Remove as much solid matter as possible.

2. Blot the area (if still moist from the spill) with a dry absorbent cloth.

3. Blot with a cloth dampened with clear water. Microfiber cloths are ideal for this purpose.

4. If the spot remains, mix a few drops of liquid dish soap with a cup of water in a spray bottle and mist onto the area and blot.

5. Repeat until the spot disappears, making sure to blot between each application

6. Residual discoloration may be removed by applying 3% hydrogen peroxide, and leaving it to work. This may take several hours or a few attempts

7. If you own a home spotting or carpet cleaning machine, rinse the area with clear water only after no evidence of the spot remains.

8. If these procedures do not work, call your IICRC Certified Professional Cleaner.
 

ruff

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Ofer Kolton
Olefin is the least absorbent of all fibers. It means that stains and water are not absorbed, they go through.

Lower your pressure substantially when cleaning Olefin, do not pre-spray heavy or in high pressure or let it dwell too long (it pushes the stains to the bottom or gives it enough time to get there -Olefin=no absorbtion!) , less continuous wet passes before the dry ones (gives the water less time to go deep), more dry passes. Etc. etc.

It may substantially reduce the wicking issue. Give it a shot.
 
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randy

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Feb 2, 2007
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USA
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Randy
Perfect example of WHY Shaw is selling more and more LVT with every passing year. THE END IS NEAR ! Until people see how that shit holds up to real life.
 

Rick J

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Ohio
Name
rick Jones
Encapugard by Bridgepoint or Anti Resoiling Agent (“ARA”) by Pros Choice. Both can be lightly sprayed on and around the area and it usually prevents wicking.
I have in the past used both.. without any noticeable improvement of the situation.

and way before that it had been recommended that some sort of fiber protection would limit the wicking.
 

Rick J

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rick Jones
Olefin is the least absorbent of all fibers. It means that stains and water are not absorbed, they go through.

Lower your pressure substantially when cleaning Olefin, do not pre-spray heavy or in high pressure or let it dwell too long (it pushes the stains to the bottom or gives it enough time to get there -Olefin=no absorbtion!) , less continuous wet passes before the dry ones (gives the water less time to go deep), more dry passes. Etc. etc.

It may substantially reduce the wicking issue. Give it a shot.
also, when doing your final rinse/extraction, one of the many encap extraction products out there.

Punch from excellent supply comes to mind.,, but many others.
 

ruff

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Ofer Kolton
I use the technique I mentioned above and can't even remember the last time I had a call back.

Personally, unless I have no other choice, I will not use an encap product in residential. Instead, if rarely needed, I'd rather go over the carpet with a bonnet (no added spray) while the carpet is still damp.
 

AdamDumphy

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Mar 21, 2019
Messages
113
Location
Minnesota
Name
Adam Dumphy
couple comments

1 what made you think to take a picture of the spot prior to cleaning it? ( nice that you did but I would find it time consuming to take a picture of every bad spot I clean before I clean it)

2 suggestion. usually when I see spots like that, I just rinse with water FIRST before using any cleaning agent for two reasons. it gives me a good idea of how easy it will be to remove (as most spots just rinse out with water) also, it makes the cleaning agent or whatever I decide to use that much more effective as it only needs to work on a fraction of the initial spot.
I don't take pictures of every spot or stain I come by. The ones that look the worst I do take photos of so if it comes all the way out then I'll have a great before and after photo for marketing. Sometimes customers aren't around when I clean so I can also show them some photos of the cleaning. All I used on that spot was my fast break pre-spray, had my spotting kit right by me if needed but I always clean over the spots or stains before I go ahead with any spotting treatments.
 
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AdamDumphy

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Mar 21, 2019
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113
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Minnesota
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Adam Dumphy
Went back out there today and it was definitely just some residual vomit that came back up. The spot was 50% lighter and was a simple spot clean of the landing. took 5 minutes to set up and get after it. Noticed a few spots on two steps so I recleaned those while I was at it. No charge for the customer, he was happy I was able to make it out before having some family members over for the holidays and reclean the area. Left some blotting powder over the area to hopefully soak up any vomit that may be in the backing that might come through as it dry's. Now time to drive home in a blizzard and enjoy the next 4 days off! Happy Holidays to you all! and Bah Humbug to hogjowl 😂
 

Jim Pemberton

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Jim Pemberton
Happy Holidays to you all! and Bah Humbug to hogjowl

He'll be more annoyed at the "Happy Holidays" than the "Bah Humbug"

Nicely done in taking care of the customer.

All the appropriate holiday wishes.....and a belated "Joyous Solstice"...just to annoy Marty!
 

Dolly Llama

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Oct 7, 2006
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Location
North East Ohio
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Larry Capitoni
Perfect example of WHY Shaw is selling more and more LVT with every passing year.


poor operator technique?
or crap product ?

Adam's was a spill that God only knows went how deep
Still doesn't know if the spot will start to reappear in weeks/months.

regular wicking on berbers though?
poor technique plain and simple.



..L.T.A.
 

ruff

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Ofer Kolton
If you quote me, please quote the whole info regarding the subject:
Personally, unless I have no other choice, I will not use an encap product in residential.
I don't believe the heavy residue and it's content to be beneficial to my clients health wise. Regardless of the convenience and sales spiel.

spiel

a long or fast speech or story, typically one intended as a means of persuasion or as an excuse but regarded with skepticism or contempt by those who hear it.
 
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