NobleCarpetCleaners
Member
- Joined
- May 16, 2010
- Messages
- 1,191
- Name
- Noble Carpet Cleaners
That's my question today. And if it's the only kink I have to deal with so far with little less then 200 hours, then I'm fairly good with the machine.
First couple jobs I lost pressure. Thought I was shooting steam like with my old rig and propane heat. The pressure loss was intermittent so I ran it at Med and Low for couple weeks. Turns out the incoming pressure regulator needed adjustment. Interesting design to have a pressurized water box; perhaps its better then finding or manufacturing a float/valve that can thrive in 160-180 degree water.
What I've found with a pressure gauge on my incoming water hose is a wide variance of municipal water pressures. I go from jobs with private well systems to municipal. I've seen 28 psi private well all the way to 58 psi municipal. My distributor even has 80 psi municipal. And top it off my Watts pump (SS supplied with my water tank) has a solid 45 psi.
Yesterday I switched from my onboard tank to municipal and lost pressure couple minutes into cleaning. Kept my cool with a 1/2" wrench and made the adjustment (fairly simple for you SS owners, just open of the valve until you see the water box vent cap trickle a little relief water then back off a half a turn). Completed the job.
Had the valve apart 2 times. No broken parts, no sediment or debris. Valve has a data plate from a real manufacturer, pressure range and temp range printed on the tag. Hum, was this pressure reducing valve meant to have varying incoming pressures? The water box radiator style cap vents at approx 15 psi and that could vary as the water temps rises.
Waited a long time to replace my aging rig and thought I made the right choice (still do) and the real burning question is am I the only poor chump experience this issue? hum
First couple jobs I lost pressure. Thought I was shooting steam like with my old rig and propane heat. The pressure loss was intermittent so I ran it at Med and Low for couple weeks. Turns out the incoming pressure regulator needed adjustment. Interesting design to have a pressurized water box; perhaps its better then finding or manufacturing a float/valve that can thrive in 160-180 degree water.
What I've found with a pressure gauge on my incoming water hose is a wide variance of municipal water pressures. I go from jobs with private well systems to municipal. I've seen 28 psi private well all the way to 58 psi municipal. My distributor even has 80 psi municipal. And top it off my Watts pump (SS supplied with my water tank) has a solid 45 psi.
Yesterday I switched from my onboard tank to municipal and lost pressure couple minutes into cleaning. Kept my cool with a 1/2" wrench and made the adjustment (fairly simple for you SS owners, just open of the valve until you see the water box vent cap trickle a little relief water then back off a half a turn). Completed the job.
Had the valve apart 2 times. No broken parts, no sediment or debris. Valve has a data plate from a real manufacturer, pressure range and temp range printed on the tag. Hum, was this pressure reducing valve meant to have varying incoming pressures? The water box radiator style cap vents at approx 15 psi and that could vary as the water temps rises.
Waited a long time to replace my aging rig and thought I made the right choice (still do) and the real burning question is am I the only poor chump experience this issue? hum
