Stop Engine Question on 2004 Vortex

BLewis

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My stop engine motor quit working a few weeks ago. It took me a while to figure out how to shut the truck off but, finally found the stop engine control to stop the diesel flow to the engine. After checking all the fuses I order a new stop engine motor and when I went to my mechanics to help him put it in he discovered that I didn't need the motor since it wasn't calling for anything.

Things that I have checked:
-Fuse in cab and under cab for Stop Engine Control, both ok
-Module in cab for Stop engine Control, replaced with a new one
-New motor, however not installed

Anyone else ever had this problem? If I can't get some ideas here I suppose I will have to take her to a dealer to get fixed. I try to do as much as I can myself, but I am getting a little tired of raising the cab to shut the engine off. I do suppose I could install an old type stop engine cable and shut her down that way.

Any suggestions
 

dealtimeman

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Is there any check engine lights or any indicator lights on?
have no idea but would like to know what you do to fix it when its fixed.
 

Tony Dees

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I would be interested to know what kind of truck it is? UD?

Are you saying that your ignition switch is not working to turn the motor off?

Check the wiring in the ignition
 

Jim Martin

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can you explain to me or take a picture of what the stop engine motor is.....and the stop engine control.....
 

ascrubabove

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I have done alot of stop engine motor repairs to isuzu trucks, only 20% of the time is it the motor, Check the connector that plugs into the stop eng motor, if any of the prongs are corroded that will cause your problem, its suposed to be a sealed conection but water still gets in there and fooks things up.

Hope this helps!
 

Jim Martin

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I have never in my life heard of a stop engine motor.....some one learn me something here....
 

Jim Martin

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If I am correct..I think Billy runs the same truck as I do..I replaced my starter last year and it was nothing real special....just your typical starter as far as I could tell....

the starter you have in the picture I have seen on Raymond forklifts and other types that I have worked on in my younger years....but it was never called a stop engine motor...just a simple solenoid starter motor
 
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Found it on page 268 in the UD manual on disc.

Will try to post a pic but not good at it. Forget it I emailed the Document to Jim.

Hope the helps Billy and PM me your address.
 

Jim Martin

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where does one get a ud manual on disk..........and how long have you been holding out on us with this info...........
 
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Sorry Jim ole pal good buddy, I have never with all my questions thought to ask if you had one.

Check your email and then I will get you one. I knew Porky didn't have one cause of the failure to start the truck thing.

Don't be mad at the monkey
 

hogjowl

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That's really not true, Jim. I told him to send you one when he sent me mine, but he said you were becoming the bulletin board know it all and he didn't want you to get worse.

I didn't know until tonight that he misunderstood me and though I said Hoodledick.
 
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Hey Curly Cue don't be puttin words in my mouth.

Your making me feel even worse about forgeting

Jim wouldn't even speak when I called, thanks alot. Now I am screwed and will have to rely on you.
 

Jim Martin

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you better keep calling me Brad.....Marty is STILL looking for the spare tire...........
 

BLewis

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Sorry guys, happily I can say I've been busy and couldn't get back for a couple of days. Jim the stop engine motor(really a large servo) is located under box behind drivers side about 2 feet back on inside of frame. I am going to try to attach a diagram from Toms Truck Parts.
All it does is when the ignition is turned off it is suppose to push a cable that actuates a lever on drivers side of engine that stops the flow of diesel and therefore kills the engine. After doing so I suppose it resets or when the ignition is turned on it resets and allows diesel fuel to flow back to engine. 2004 UD 1400

To answer the one question, yes when the ignition key is turned off all you here is a change of pitch in the engine but it still continues to run.

For those of you with suggestions I will check ignition wiring etc, and most definately the connection at the stop engine motor since it does seem to have a mind of it's own and work occassionaly.

I'll let you know Wed. another semi busy day tommorrow.

Thanks for everyones help.
[http://www.ndaistone.com/dealerHome.asp?DEALER_CODE_po278p]
then click on illustration at top of page
 

Jim Martin

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engine.jpg
 

dealtimeman

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marty if you lift the cab of the truck and stand at the rear of the front driverside tire and look at a 45 degree angle you will see the throttle cable (throttle cable is the one connected to a stick that has two springs on the rear side of it. once you find the throttle cable look directly under it a about three to five inches and you see a cable coming from the rear of the truck that is the stop engine motor cable, follow it back a few feet and you will see the stop engine motor. if you have any other questions let me know. just as it appears on the schematic is how it is on the truck they just didint draw the frame or body and suspension.
 

BLewis

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Thanks for posting diagram Jim. I tried a couple of times but it wouldn't download. I still haven't gotten to checking the cable leading into SEMotor but will get to it Thursday.
 

dealtimeman

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brad is the man for having the service manual and providing it to us who need them. i called tom truck service and he wanted 200 just to send me the sheet of engine codes for diagnostics. thanks brad! :mrgreen:
 

BLewis

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To All,
I finally got around to looking into the Stop Engine Motor Problem. James you were pretty close on your diagnosis. When I crawled up under the Vortex I tried spraying some compressed air on the connection, no luck. I took off the connecter and worked it up to the top so I could get a better look at it. Plugged it into my new Stop Engine Motor just to veryify that it wasn't a bad motor, no luck. Got to looking at the wire ends as James suggested looking for rusty connectors or frayed wires and this is when I notices that about 6 inches of the wiring had a protective sleeve on it and all of it was neatly wrapped with electrical tape. Well when I seen the tape then I was pretty sure I was onto the fix. Sure enough upon unravely it all I found where 3 of the 5 wires had been spliced previously and a 4th wire had broken into around 5 inches from the connector. Upon fixing that and rewrapping everything PROBLEM SOLVED!
Thanks for all the suggestions and thanks James. You were pretty much on the money of where to start the trouble shooting.
 

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