Suck it!

Desk Jockey

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Suck it dry, that is. :winky:

Homeowner was having new siding put on. As they ripped the old siding off the pulled a pipe loose under the kitchen sink. Wet a couple of small areas in the living room carpet. Wet out the kitchen, entry, hall hardwood, then dropped into the return air and down into the basement. Down stairs it damaged the drywall ceiling, walls, carpet & pad in the family room and den.

The garage got blasted as the main water flowed down through the fiberboard duct work.

This is the 3 Injectidry's and floor panels setup.

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Big Jim

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Suck it dry, that is. :winky:

Homeowner was having new siding put on. As they ripped the old siding off the pulled a pipe loose under the kitchen sink. Wet a couple of small areas in the living room carpet. Wet out the kitchen, entry, hall hardwood, then dropped into the return air and down into the basement. Down stairs it damaged the drywall ceiling, walls, carpet & pad in the family room and den.

The garage got blasted as the main water flowed down through the fiberboard duct work.

This is the 3 Injectidry's and floor panels setup.

View attachment 17635 View attachment 17636 View attachment 17637 View attachment 17638
Positive or negative on the injecti dry?
 

BIG WOOD

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Hey Rico, give me some numbers...I don't think it's worth drying out that floor. give me the cost to dry,sand, and refinish, vs the cost to replace??? And on top of that, is there a wood subfloor underneath?
 

Desk Jockey

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I don't know maybe 3-4k for the job, the floor itself will depend on how well it dries. We are going back out this afternoon. No need to sand or refinish, just dry it down so you don't have the ridges.

Yes wood beneath that hardwood. If you pulled the floor you'd still have to dry the subfloor both on top and below once the dry ceiling is out.

Sand the floor & refinish? geezzz! :eekk:

Stay out of peoples homes, ok? :winky:
 

kmdineen

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Nice job Richard, your single point mats look much neater than my 8 point mats.

The vacuum mats will pull up to 3 feet in either direction length wise but should not be placed more than one floor board width wise. I tilt or stagger my mats to get better coverage on the width of the floor.

I also loop the vacuum hose back to the power head so I get equal negative pressure on all mats.

Putting painters tape under your Dr. Shrink or Preservation tape will make it less likely you pull finish off the floor when you pull your mats off the floor.

What do you have UNDER the floor? Did you have to drop a sheetrock ceiling? Heat, dehumidifier, tenting, show us the rest of the job.

How old is that power head?
 
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BIG WOOD

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View attachment 17678 I don't know maybe 3-4k for the job, the floor itself will depend on how well it dries. We are going back out this afternoon. No need to sand or refinish, just dry it down so you don't have the ridges.

Yes wood beneath that hardwood. If you pulled the floor you'd still have to dry the subfloor both on top and below once the dry ceiling is out.

Sand the floor & refinish? geezzz! :eekk:

Stay out of peoples homes, ok? :winky:
I just know when hardwood gets too wet, the edges rise, and rarely come down. That's what i was referring to on sanding and refinishing.

And the insurance adjusters ive spoken with, would rather just tear out and replace,.

That's why i asked
 

kmdineen

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I just know when hardwood gets too wet, the edges rise, and rarely come down. That's what i was referring to on sanding and refinishing.

And the insurance adjusters ive spoken with, would rather just tear out and replace,.

That's why i asked


Provided the floor planks aren't too wide and you have access under the floor the cupped edges will lay flat quickly without the need to refinish. Unless the tape used to hold the mats down pulls some finish off the floor.

Adjusters like to replace the floor because if the floor is not properly dried and the raised edges are sanded off the floor will crown when it finally dries. When the floor is properly dried it can be returned to a pre loss condition for a fraction of the cost of replacement and much less house hold interruption.
 

Desk Jockey

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Did you have to drop a sheetrock ceiling? Heat, dehumidifier, tenting, show us the rest of the job.
How old is that power head?
Sheet rock ceiling, wet insulation above....above that is a belly type liner. wet insulation and plastic barrier.

Heat and tenting upstairs only with the 2800i ducted under the sheeting. its doing good, we shifted some panels and kept her running.

I think that particular unit was a second generation Injectidry. I believe there was one style before we bought. We have two of the older style and three of these smaller units. None of the tall ones yet.
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Desk Jockey

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I just know when hardwood gets too wet, the edges rise, and rarely come down. That's what i was referring to on sanding and refinishing.

And the insurance adjusters ive spoken with, would rather just tear out and replace,.

That's why i asked
Rarely? It usually does. Rarely that it doesn't. :headscratch:

You have morons for adjusters. Not only is there the cost of the floor but collateral damage. Floors generally go beneath the cabinet. So move the cabinets and the granite counter top? :eekk:

To say nothing about the inconvenience to the client.
:errf:
 

Cleanworks

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Just got back from sucking out my shop. Have a roof drain that runs beneath my concrete floor to a sump outside. We just had a real gully washer that lasted for about an hour. Took about 25 gallons of water out and have 6 fans going. I've learned from past experience not to put anything that can't get wet on the floor. Doing a job for the landlord tomorrow so I will have to raise with him. The drain pipe is old and probably collapsed. Need to replace the drain pipe or put a pump in the sump.
 

joesclean

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Rarely? It usually does. Rarely that it doesn't. :headscratch:

You have morons for adjusters. Not only is there the cost of the floor but collateral damage. Floors generally go beneath the cabinet. So move the cabinets and the granite counter top? :eekk:

To say nothing about the inconvenience to the client.
:errf:
How do you dry the hardwood under the cabinets (besides the holes with forced air)? I always feel there are too many unknowns with hardwood. You cant dry between the black felt under the floor, what if there are 2 subfloors?

I wish there was a hands on class with just hardwood floors........
 
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Desk Jockey

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Same way, through the holes. Butt the panels up as close as you can get to pull beneath them.

Lots of things we have done. Pull the toe kick, removed the bottom board of the cabinet (replaced with luan board), pulled the drawers, pulled the cabinetry.

We use extra long probes for the mms2 to check the back drywall.

I agree many things can impede the drying. A few days after this job we had one that ran for two days and nothing. She didn't budge, insurance man was apperceive of the effort and it was pulled.

Most dry now and then you run into one you can't. We have one currently drying they setup this AM.

Check with Barry Costa, he has some unique ideas using the exhaust from the injectidy.
 
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kmdineen

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Tent plastic under the subfloor from the room below and duct a lgr dehumidifier or e tes into the plastic to get hot dry air under the floor. The vacuum mats on top of the floor will pull that hot dry air through the floor and expand the reach of the vacuum mat on top of the floor, such as under the cabinets. I use a hammer probe to check the subfloor and into the bottom of the finished floor under the cabinets to insure everything is dry.

The ceiling below the affected floor is likely wet so removing the ceiling for access to the sub floor is understandable.

Felt between the sub floor and finished floor is not an issue when drying from the top and bottom of the floor. Two sub floors can be dried, but will take longer.

Richard, the Injectidry exhaust is hot, but has a higher humidity ratio than the ambient air. Please share some of Barry Costa's ideas for using the Injectidry exhaust.
 

Desk Jockey

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the Injectidry exhaust is hot, but has a higher humidity ratio than the ambient air. Please share some of Barry Costa's ideas for using the Injectidry exhaust.
He said he found out by accident that adding the exhaust (humid and all) actually dried the floor faster and was less damaging than heat.

I have some pictures of him using rafter mats to help direct the exhaust air. We have not tried it as of yet but Barry was very excited about it.
 
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My pops is a big advocate on drying hardwood floors slower... If you dry it too fast with heat, you'll have secondary damages... He then goes into detail getting all flooring inspector on species of wood, RH, how many times the tree was watered before being made into flooring....... Okay the last one I made up, but it opened my eyes more... My eyes still glaze over when he talks about some stuff....:shifty:
 

Desk Jockey

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This is a new Hardwood floor Drying Concept that Barry Costa has been experimenting with.

He said by doing what we (the industry) are doing currently is putting too much stress on the wood. The heat is actually pushing the water molecule deeper in into the cells locking it in.

He is advocating using moisture to evenly wet out the wood keeping it out of stress. He suggests using moist heat from the exhaust of the injectidry.

The exhaust is branched off and sent to rafter mat (from Homedepot $1.97) which is taped down on three sides leaving the opposite end of the ducting in, open.

This hot moist air cause evaporation yet keeps the hardwood floor out of stress.

Using this push pull you’ll get better results while keeping the wood from stress fractures that the high heat is giving it.



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Floor%206_zpspnk99erz.jpg
 

kmdineen

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Interesting, thanks for posting the pictures Richard.

My HP 60 I power head puts out an exhaust of over 100 degrees and climbs as the floor dries and the exhaust moisture drops to within a couple degrees of the ambient air.

How is this not stressing the finished floor?

That exhaust air is likely too hot to be safely pulled through the power head without potential damage. Especially as the floor dries and the exhaust temperature is no longer decreased through the evaporation process. (Just a thought).
 
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Desk Jockey

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He says its keeping the floor in equilibrium. We have not had the right opportunity to try it. I'm waiting for a vacant home.

Barry did offer that if you were willing to try it, call him and he would walk you through it.

He said so far he has saved every floor this way.
 

kmdineen

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Interesting, thanks for posting the pictures Richard.

My HP 60 I power head puts out an exhaust of over 100 degrees and climbs as the floor dries and the exhaust moisture drops to within a couple degrees of the ambient air.

How is this not stressing the finished floor?

That exhaust air is likely too hot to be safely pulled through the power head without potential damage. Especially as the floor dries and the exhaust temperature is no longer decreased through the evaporation process. (Just a thought).




Correction, I meant to say ; My HP 60-I power head puts out an exhaust of over 100 degrees and climbs (125+ degrees) as the floor dries and the exhaust moisture drops to within a couple GPP's (not degrees) of the ambient air.
 
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