tell me again..WHY do you use acid rinse?

XTREME1

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i did my daycare last night I do these on a regular basis so I know what to expect. Last time it was cleaned i had to sub it out to a good friend of mine, he does not use a rinse. This job usually takes me and eppie 2hr 15 min last night it took us right at 4 hr there was so much soap residue left behind. next time it will be easier.

Real world experience. I have used slurry, water rinse etc etc and I am more comfortable with the final product with an acid rinse. Running a slurry and spraying traffic lanes is fine for some but I find it is a better clean with the process of vac, prespray, scrub with 175 rinse with an all fiber acidic rinse. Just my humble opinion. I usually keep to myself but thought I should speak up here
 

Dolly Llama

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Matt Murdock said:
i did my daycare last night I do these on a regular basis so I know what to expect. Last time it was cleaned i had to sub it out to a good friend of mine, he does not use a rinse. This job usually takes me and eppie 2hr 15 min last night it took us right at 4 hr there was so much soap residue left behind. next time it will be easier.

Real world experience. I have used slurry, water rinse etc etc and I am more comfortable with the final product with an acid rinse. Running a slurry and spraying traffic lanes is fine for some but I find it is a better clean with the process of vac, prespray, scrub with 175 rinse with an all fiber acidic rinse. Just my humble opinion. I usually keep to myself but thought I should speak up here

you might know biz and football, but you iz still wet behind the ears, Boy, when it comes to CCing
so is Lipwad


BUT if you two cowboys were on MY team...with my brains and yous two drive and ambition, we'd RULE THE WORD!


..L.T.A.
 

Jack May

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Ok Larry, I'll bite.

In the two situations I mentioned, would or would you not use an acid rinse?

Wall to wall wool using a 'wool safe' approved of 8.5 pH.

Also on flood jobs, immediately after extraction, doing a light clean and either rinsing with an acid rinse or lightly spraying one on to reduce/eliminate cellulosic browning.

????

John
 

Dolly Llama

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John Middleton said:
Ok Larry, I'll bite.

In the two situations I mentioned, would or would you not use an acid rinse?

Wall to wall wool using a 'wool safe' approved of 8.5 pH.

Also on flood jobs, immediately after extraction, doing a light clean and either rinsing with an acid rinse or lightly spraying one on to reduce/eliminate cellulosic browning.

????

John

you're in a different world, John and working with wools w/cellulose backing most of the time.
what we see here are synthetics with syn backing.
No need for scid treatments, cause there is no browning

It's being sold here as an everyday "rinse agent" , not a specialty chem for specific situations.

there's only a couple on the market that actually aid in risings
all the rest are usless (or no better than any good emulsifier and worse than some)
The soap isn't so slippery anymore and the carpet PH is neutral , but there's still plenty soil attracting gUnk on the carpet


..L.T.A.
 

The Great Oz

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Acids do help cut foaming to a small degree, but foamy residue is rare and more easily dealt with by using a defoamer.

IICRC instructors teach the beneifits of acid rinse because the book says to teach the beneifits of an acid rinse. The reason the book says so is because truck mounts with heat exchangers used to have cleaning solutions run through them, and alkaline solutions would eventually eat through the heat exchanger or lose efficiency due to scale, so manufacturers had the rules changed to benefit the equipment. No longer needed since everyone uses last stage chemical injection, but it would be embarrassing to admit that the change to acid rinse had no valid cleaning reasoning attached.

Oh yeah, there are lots of hacks that clean everything with extra-oxidizer enriched hot sauce and Castrol SuperClean, and blame the carpet for the damage they cause. THAT could be a reason to teach using an acid rinse.
 

roro

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Thank you to Larry Shawn & Bryan for bring some reality to the discussion. I think in over 20 years we have only had three instances of browning from the jute backing and one of those was on a carpet that had been affected by a previous flood.

roro
 
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larry i might be wrong in theroy but i will tell you that im right. when i took these over they had been shampooed for years. once i got all the soap out the carpets looked real good. and over night with a bunch of pm left behind the carpets were dull and dingy. get the soap back out and whammmo we have great carpet again...

keep in mind larry with the results im getting at the day care i know what i use works well. I do these about every 3-4 months.
 

Dolly Llama

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Ron Lippold said:
keep in mind larry with the results im getting at the day care i know what i use works well. I do these about every 3-4 months.

there's no arguing success Ronald
Maybe you have one of the very few good 'cid rinses...that actually aids in "rinsing" not just neutralize Ph and leave more gunk

..L.T.A.
 
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judson juice and rinse the best combo out there. works on 99% of everything. on the 1% left over Ill pull out the 175 and snake oil.
 

Blue Monarch

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I use HM's Clear Water Rinse for a few reasons...

1. Smells good.
2. Keeps QD's clean and shiny.
3. Leaves carpet soft. A noticeable difference from when I don't use it.
 

steve g

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I just use it when there is a pet odor issue so that the house does not stink worse when I am done
 
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I agree with Meat..acid rinses are way overated.


I have recently switched to soap free with excellent results in our rinse.....or I would use slurry with half what they instruct.
 

hogjowl

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I don't use an acid rinse on a daily basis, but on that darn church account I sure do. I learned the hard way on that account. In fact, on almost all commercial jobs I do, I will run an acid rinse just because I don't want to risk running into that kind of problem ever again! Even IF the chance is less that 1 in a thousand.
 

Chris A

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I would have a hard time not running some kind of a cleaning agent through the wand on commercial to make sure I was removing as much soil as possible...
 

steve r

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a properly formulated emulsifier will return to nuetral ph when it dries.it will also dry, clean leaving no sticky residue and leave the carpet soft to the touch.

ive left some premixed right from the wand pca5 in a clear plastic bowl that was scratched up a bit.when it dried i did the pepper test and it passed 100% and some of the scratches were not as noticable.it actually felt cleaner and smoother than the part of the bowl along the top where it didnt get any solution.

i only prespray about half my jobs and never use an acid rinse even on berber.i will at times apply a brown out on furniture but not always because i always apply a solvent protector to furniture.

im not saying im right just my experience is all.

and ive had some call backs and wickbacks and resoiling issues but if i get a call which i do a couple a year i make sure to address the problem right away.its more about service than being perfect anyway.i also do a lot of real nasty stuff so its no surprise when i have to return to touch things up and i usually inform the customer of the possibilities first before i start cleaning.
 

Chris A

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and that's from a guy running a BANE! So little chem is left after extracting what difference does it make what kind it is?
 

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