I looked through the whole post (I am probably blind)without seeing a clear link to go and view your pdf's. before I posted my question. What is the link? What does YFP mean (seriously)?
You Fantastic People of course..
Here's a few examples..
11.Curry and other food related odors
Curry is especially complex and difficult to remove as it consists of tamarind, onion, coriander, chili pepper, turmeric, cumin, fenugreek, pepper, and mustard all combined. Cooking odors detected in the carpet can also be present in other absorbent items in the home. Cooking odor molecules will attach to furniture, baseboards, drywall, window coverings, bedding, and the HVAC system. While a thorough cleaning and deodorizing of the carpet will help, be prepared to have all absorbent surfaces in the affected area cleaned and deodorized. In extreme cases your hard surfaces such as walls, ceilings, tile, wood, or vinyl flooring may need mitigation as well.
If your regular carpet cleaning company does not provide these extensive services, use this link to find an
IICRC Certified Odor Control Specialist
https://www.iicrc.org/page/IICRCGlobalLocator
13. Mold and Musty odors in carpet and upholstery
The musty smell associated with mold or mildew is much like any other persistent odor and it’s best to eliminate it at the source. While there are many consumer-grade products available that will cover up or mask the smell of either problem, your health could be at risk by not eliminating the source. In many cases the source comes from the backing of the carpet or other sub floor surfaces, which cannot be removed by cleaning the surface fibers of the carpet. Often times with small water damage, homeowners don’t realize that the absorbent carpet padding can stay wet for an extended amount of time even if the surface carpet fibers are dry to the touch. This wet, dark environment is perfect for mold and mildew to grow without being detected to the naked eye. If the area becomes damp again, or there is high humidity in the air, you may notice the odor returns. This can also occur when an affected area has been professionally cleaned and moisture/steam reactivates the odor.
The
IICRC S100 Carpet Cleaning Standards reads as follows:
“Odors can occur from sources other than bodily discharges (e.g., hair, dander, and body oils from dogs and cats). Elevated heat and humidity created from the cleaning process can amplify odors, so they are more evident during and after cleaning and during warm, humid conditions. Mold and mildew odors perceived to be coming from the carpet can actually also be present in other absorbent items in the home such as furniture, baseboards, dry wall, window coverings, bedding as well as the HVAC system.”
Due to the dangers associated with breathing/ingesting mold, it is highly recommended that you consult with an
IICRC Certified Mold Remediation Specialist.
14. Animal Stains and Odors
Dogs and cats may be our best friends, but they contribute to many issues when it comes to carpeting, draperies, and upholstery.
Urine: There are two types of reactions that can take place between the chemicals in an animal's urine and those in the dyes and fibers of textile furnishings. The first type of reaction is immediately noticeable. Some textile dyes change color as soon as urine comes into contact with them.
The other type of reaction develops slowly over several days or months and can result in permanent changes to the dyes and fiber. In many cases, this type of damage can only be seen with the aid of a Black/UV light. Not only can the dye/color change, but some fibers may become weakened or destroyed as the urine ages and decomposes. The decomposing urine can also produce an objectionable odor. After cleaning, these areas are more obvious because the soils which hid the changed color and damaged fibers have been removed. Also, dyes weakened by urine can be removed or bleed during professional cleaning.
Cleaning professionals use a black light to identify all areas that have urine that can’t be seen with the naked eye. Not all urine spots show, so this is the proper way to identify affected areas. It's important to understand that after cleaning, the area may still glow when observed under UV light. (Actually, the correct term is “fluoresce”—the treated area is reflecting the UV light back to your eyes as visible light.) This fluorescing is not due to the presence of urine in that spot, but from phosphorous left over from the breakdown of phosphocreatine. During that process the phosphorous becomes chemically bonded to the fibers as a dye would. Just like a dye, the phosphorous is now part of the surface of the fibers, and it is quite difficult to remove without damaging the existing dyes on those fibers. If the area still fluoresces after professional cleaning, it does not mean the service provider did an incomplete job removing the urine.
Feces: Solid pet feces is easier to remove than urine. Compact deposits can be quickly removed with a plastic scraper or spatula. The surface should then be cleaned with the standard spotting solution and blotted dry. Refer to the spotting steps below for further information and techniques. Follow this treatment with a sanitizer recommended by your
IICRC Certified Cleaner or veterinarian.
Loose/runny feces require the same clean-up procedure as described for fresh urine removal. This should also be followed with an application of disinfectant.
If your pets' food or treats contain coloring or dyes, discoloration may remain at the site of the accident. Your
IICRC Certified Cleaner may be able to remove this, but with caution as many food dyes are nearly identical to fabric dyes and some color loss or change may be unavoidable.
An
IICRC Certified Professional Cleaner will have methods available to minimize the discoloration, disinfect the area, and reduce the smell. It is often impossible to completely restore the original appearance of a textile furnishing that has been damaged with aged pet urine, especially if homeowners attempt to remove the urine using the wrong products or methods. .
Care Tips:
Use a wet/dry vacuum for the initial pick up of urine and loose feces and to extract spotting and rinsing agents.
Place a damp white cotton towel over affected areas to keep the affected area from drying if the spot cannot be cleaned right away Be aware that some disinfectants and oxy products may cause discoloration of textile furnishings and carpet if not fully rinsed and neutralized.
1. Remove as much solid matter as possible.
2. Blot the area (if still moist from the spill) with a dry absorbent cloth.
3. Blot with a cloth dampened with clear water. Microfiber cloths are ideal for this purpose.
4. If the spot remains, mix a few drops of liquid dish soap with a cup of water in a spray bottle and mist onto the area and blot.
5. Repeat until the spot disappears, making sure to blot between each application
6. Residual discoloration may be removed by applying 3% hydrogen peroxide, and leaving it on the spot until the desired result is achieved. This may take several hours or a few attempts
7. If you own a home spotting or carpet cleaning machine, rinse the area with clear water only after no evidence of the spot remains.
8. If these procedures do not work, call your
IICRC Certified Professional Cleaner.
