so my CDS was a repo unit, I bought it with 400 hours, and since I've had it I've had problems with the clutch being overloaded and slipping out. Now I found that all the fluid lines are completely clogged! Looks like a couple rounds with a descaler and I should be good to go! Maybe I'll finally get some heat out of it too. The last 2 weeks I've been struggling to keep 1 of my 2 CDS' running at a given time. The old 47 is still in peices waiting to be re-wired.
Think I have my CDS problems figured out!
- Thread starter Chris A
- Start date
Dolly Llama
Number 5
c_adkins said:
Chris, hopefully someone will correct me if I'm wrong, but blockage in the plumbing shouldn't cause your clutch slippage probs.
no more than a low flow (small jet) tool or partially closing the ball valve on the end of your solution line would.
Choke off the flow and the unloader/regulator by-passes thru the loop
are you sure it's the clutch slipping and not the belts?
..L.T.A.
Jim Martin
Supportive Member
clutch slip is normally a glazed clutch or a over load
This has been ongoing, the belts are good, the clutch is new, the water lines are the worst I've ever seen. Water's not even recirculating to the water box. I waterclawed a job yesterday with the pressure system off and it was fine. Here's the symptoms:
-clutch slipping out under "full" load (12-13 hg)
-Heat drops off considerably when wand is set down (after 10 seconds or so)
-Water lines are so clogged up that virtually nothing is flowing through them
When I talked to Hydramaster yesterday they told me to check the inlet and outlet hoses on the blower HX for debris, they were clear. Wouldn't it be feasable that these lines are so goobed that they're causing the pump to work overtime and strain the eintire system? I'm waiting on some descaler to come in so I can test this for sure.
-clutch slipping out under "full" load (12-13 hg)
-Heat drops off considerably when wand is set down (after 10 seconds or so)
-Water lines are so clogged up that virtually nothing is flowing through them
When I talked to Hydramaster yesterday they told me to check the inlet and outlet hoses on the blower HX for debris, they were clear. Wouldn't it be feasable that these lines are so goobed that they're causing the pump to work overtime and strain the eintire system? I'm waiting on some descaler to come in so I can test this for sure.
TimP
Member
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- May 19, 2007
- Messages
- 4,055
You may want to check voltage to the clutch. I've heard low voltage may cause problems with clutches. Not that this is the problem but it's a possibility.
I wouldn't think a pump would cause a problem unless the pump itself itsn't moving properly or there is something wrong with the pump clutch. Internal plumbing would affect flow rates. Maybe you might have an unloader problem that recirculates the water so that the water don't build pressure beyond what you set it at? I don't know.
I wouldn't think a pump would cause a problem unless the pump itself itsn't moving properly or there is something wrong with the pump clutch. Internal plumbing would affect flow rates. Maybe you might have an unloader problem that recirculates the water so that the water don't build pressure beyond what you set it at? I don't know.
Jim Martin
Supportive Member
is the waste tank filling up real fast..????
Once a clutch "slips" it is no longer new. It is burnt. Ask me how I know. TimP is also correct the number one cause for clutch failure is voltage drop. I state this because I read it on the little brochure that came with every one of the NUMEROUS clutches I went through before I found the voltage problem.
Voltage meters are cheap. Check the voltage on the wire going directly to the clutch. make sure your ground wire is good as well. 12v will be a minimum. 11.9 don't get it. Better around 13 volts. This may not be your problem but it is a distinct possibilty, and an easy check.
I am serious about the clutch being burnt when it slips under load also.
Voltage meters are cheap. Check the voltage on the wire going directly to the clutch. make sure your ground wire is good as well. 12v will be a minimum. 11.9 don't get it. Better around 13 volts. This may not be your problem but it is a distinct possibilty, and an easy check.
I am serious about the clutch being burnt when it slips under load also.
Dolly Llama
Number 5
well then, tell the young man where to buy one so he doesn't hosed by Bridgepoint or HM
..L.T.A.
..L.T.A.
meAt said:
What a volt meter? or a clutch? Volt meter as bad as i hate to say it WALMART even has them. Lowes or any electrical supply place.
A clutch, get the model off the one he has and take it to Carquest. They can cross reference about anything. Or better yet find a good Pitts distributor and cross reference what ever cheap chinese pos is on there and get a good one.
So the one you have hasn't "slipped" yet? If it hasn't you are good when you get the other issues resolved. If it has, there is a good chance it will again even after the cause is identified and corrected. Have you checked your voltage to the clutch recently? My drop was caused by the parking brake feed back resistor or something like that. The heat down here just cooked them. SOOOOO I cut that sucker out. Eliminated the auto shutdown float switch as well. A known source of failure.
This is a stupid question and I appoligize if it has been covered, but did you remember to burnish the new clutch when you installed it? I think Jim may have mention it earlier but missed the responses if any on it. I feel your pain. A continuous clutch problem can be very un nerving. I hope you get it resolved.
This is a stupid question and I appoligize if it has been covered, but did you remember to burnish the new clutch when you installed it? I think Jim may have mention it earlier but missed the responses if any on it. I feel your pain. A continuous clutch problem can be very un nerving. I hope you get it resolved.
Out of Character - 0
Member
How does one burnish a clutch?
I've installed 2 of them on our machines and never been informed I needed to burnish, I've also not had problems with the new ones.
I've installed 2 of them on our machines and never been informed I needed to burnish, I've also not had problems with the new ones.
Out Of Character said:
Keep the machine on low rpm setting. turn power on for a couple of seconds then off 15 to 20 times. I forgot what the percentage of torque potential is lost when this is not done but it was significant. If you have been using it for a significant amount of time is has more than likely burnished itself. If recently installed it is a quick saftey measure worth doing. As far as I know Cleanco drives their blowers harder than most others, thus requiringa higher level of performance from a clutch.
It really is STRONGLY suggested on clutch replacement for the Cleanco's I don't know about the lesser truck mounts. :mrgreen:
D Rice
Member
I think Doug Cox had the problem figured out on your last post. If the float switches on the mix tank are working it tells the Dema valve (solenoid) on the water inlet to open and bring in fresh water which in turn siphons chemical into the system. My local dealer is no help but Hydra Master tech dept will walk you through it, talk to Dennis, the guy is the best. They have always been very helpful when I call.
Bob Foster
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Jim Pemberton
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- Jim Pemberton
That won't be necessary Bob. We aren't charging him a red cent, or any other cent, for that matter..
I'll work it out with the seller later.
I'll work it out with the seller later.
Yeah, actually I have it back now, apparently the clogged lines throughout the entire system caused an extra load, which glazed the serpentine belt! So actually the clutch was ok the whole time, it was the belt slipping. Also same reason why the pump clutch didn't go, it was the belt. At any rate I've had it back for a week and a half and 'sall good.
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