Titan 575 modification needed

sassyotto

Member
Joined
Jun 7, 2013
Messages
1,096
Location
Wisconsin
Name
Paul
first I have to explain that due to the way I clean (using a pile lifter etc.) the truckmount is not being utilized all the time. In addition, I usually clean at 400 psi with 6 flow so when I am rinsing, Im not using that much water.

my previous TM was a Prochem Apex. That machine too produced too much heat and a lot of on board water flowed to the waste tank to keep the water system cool. I solved that problem by removing the first heat exchanger. That accomplished two things. 1. The water in the water box and primary heating system never got above 180 degrees from the engine coolant heat exchanger so no water was dumped in the waste tank. 2. Having that part of the heating system cooler allowed for a longer life span for the water pump.

But then I sold the Apex and got the Titan about four months ago so I have had time to get familiar with the machine. I first ran the Heat Selector on HOT and the Temperature selector on Warm and I got good heat but could tell that it was dumping water (both the Apex and Titan have Water Ponds - I had the Apex for 11 years and know how much water I should be using) So I tried to put the Heat Selector on Warm and the Temperature selector on Warm and got slightly lower heat but it is still dumping water. the other thing I noticed was that at the end of the job, the temperature guage needle was bouncing which is a sign that the water in the water box is hot.

I need to modify the machine so that I can get decent heat (190-210 is fine with me) but not have it dump.

the weird thing is that if you look at the water flow in the manual, the water does not get heated until AFTER the Heat Selector Valve and the Bypass Valve is before all the heating process so by reading the diagram, there should always be cold water in the water box.

help please!
 

Cleanworks

Moderator
Joined
Oct 22, 2012
Messages
26,927
Location
New Westminster,BC
Name
Ron Marriott
first I have to explain that due to the way I clean (using a pile lifter etc.) the truckmount is not being utilized all the time. In addition, I usually clean at 400 psi with 6 flow so when I am rinsing, Im not using that much water.

my previous TM was a Prochem Apex. That machine too produced too much heat and a lot of on board water flowed to the waste tank to keep the water system cool. I solved that problem by removing the first heat exchanger. That accomplished two things. 1. The water in the water box and primary heating system never got above 180 degrees from the engine coolant heat exchanger so no water was dumped in the waste tank. 2. Having that part of the heating system cooler allowed for a longer life span for the water pump.

But then I sold the Apex and got the Titan about four months ago so I have had time to get familiar with the machine. I first ran the Heat Selector on HOT and the Temperature selector on Warm and I got good heat but could tell that it was dumping water (both the Apex and Titan have Water Ponds - I had the Apex for 11 years and know how much water I should be using) So I tried to put the Heat Selector on Warm and the Temperature selector on Warm and got slightly lower heat but it is still dumping water. the other thing I noticed was that at the end of the job, the temperature guage needle was bouncing which is a sign that the water in the water box is hot.

I need to modify the machine so that I can get decent heat (190-210 is fine with me) but not have it dump.

the weird thing is that if you look at the water flow in the manual, the water does not get heated until AFTER the Heat Selector Valve and the Bypass Valve is before all the heating process so by reading the diagram, there should always be cold water in the water box.

help please!
I would leave it alone and install an apo. Shame to waste all that heat. Sounds like the main problem is the waste tank filling up prematurely. An apo will solve that and leave you with great cleaning heat.
 

wilpath

Member
Joined
Jan 14, 2007
Messages
221
or you could re plump dump hose going to the waste tank back to your fresh water pond , plug off lines on waste tank
 
  • Like
Reactions: Cleanworks

sassyotto

Member
Joined
Jun 7, 2013
Messages
1,096
Location
Wisconsin
Name
Paul
Im thinking of bypassing the engine heat exchanger but am looking for someone more familiar with these machines to verify or offer other suggestion.
 

BIG WOOD

MLPW
Joined
Feb 4, 2016
Messages
13,157
Location
Georgia
Name
Matt w.
Or you could increase the flow and pressure. When I had my Titan, I did 10flow at 550 psi. When you have a low flow and pressure, not enough water moves.
 

Hack Attack

Member
Joined
Dec 19, 2017
Messages
5,620
Location
further south than you
Name
Dan
Or you could increase the flow and pressure. When I had my Titan, I did 10flow at 550 psi. When you have a low flow and pressure, not enough water moves.
Did you ever monitor what your average fuel burn per hr was on the Titan? Its another TM on my watchlist but running cost with our $$ is high as a priority
 

Johnny

Supportive Member
Joined
Oct 22, 2006
Messages
2,360
Location
La-Z-Boy
Name
Johnny
Im thinking of bypassing the engine heat exchanger but am looking for someone more familiar with these machines to verify or offer other suggestion.


I would advise against bypassing your engine coolant hx. It's part of your engine cooling system and your engine will run too hot without it and can blow a head gasket. That's my experience.
 

Mike Myers

Member
Joined
Aug 11, 2016
Messages
5
Location
Orange county ca.
Name
Mike Myers
Your problem is the 1.5 gal an hour. When your pump is bypassing it is unloading or circulating in the mix tank. Just from that you will start to over heat the pump so it is bypassing to the recovery tank for fresh cool water...and you loose any chemical if you are mixing on the low side. Solution bigger mix tank. I like to use at least 4 gal tank open. No chance of overheating. Check Ronco tanks on line. They have a giant variety if injection and rotor molded tank and great prices. Good luck
Mike
 

BIG WOOD

MLPW
Joined
Feb 4, 2016
Messages
13,157
Location
Georgia
Name
Matt w.
Paul, I never had the problem of water being dumped in the tank when I had my Titan. Actually, there was a time when I had that problem and it was that bypass sensor mounted on the water box. And it went bad a couple times, so that could be your problem. Have you checked that yet? Because whenever that sensor was good, my Titan rarely dumped water. And increase your flow on your wand. 6flow is too low for that tm
 
  • Like
Reactions: Lee Stockwell

sassyotto

Member
Joined
Jun 7, 2013
Messages
1,096
Location
Wisconsin
Name
Paul
Paul, I never had the problem of water being dumped in the tank when I had my Titan. Actually, there was a time when I had that problem and it was that bypass sensor mounted on the water box. And it went bad a couple times, so that could be your problem. Have you checked that yet? Because whenever that sensor was good, my Titan rarely dumped water. And increase your flow on your wand. 6flow is too low for that tm
the selinoid is not stuck open. I can run it fine for 2-3 hours and I use the right amount of water. Its when I run it longer or on my second job.

your right, 6 flow is too low. today I upped the PSI to 500 and it hardly dumped. I just have to get that sweet spot. I also took the cover off the water box. The pressure guage needle didnt bounce too much today either. Its stops bouncing when I cool the machine down at the end of the job so I know that the heat is the cause there. (the HydraMaster tech told me to reprime the chem system because there is a bubble that is causing the temperature guage to bounce- WHAT?)

I love the machine, just have to figure this out before winter. Im running the Heat Selector on Warm and the Temperature Selector on Warm and still getting 190 degrees!

The other thing Im going to do is get another pressure guage. The machine has the High Pressure feature and its hard to pinpoint the lower Pressure settings for carpet cleaning.

I appreciate the input.
 

BIG WOOD

MLPW
Joined
Feb 4, 2016
Messages
13,157
Location
Georgia
Name
Matt w.
the selinoid is not stuck open. I can run it fine for 2-3 hours and I use the right amount of water. Its when I run it longer or on my second job.

your right, 6 flow is too low. today I upped the PSI to 500 and it hardly dumped. I just have to get that sweet spot. I also took the cover off the water box. The pressure guage needle didnt bounce too much today either. Its stops bouncing when I cool the machine down at the end of the job so I know that the heat is the cause there. (the HydraMaster tech told me to reprime the chem system because there is a bubble that is causing the temperature guage to bounce- WHAT?)

I love the machine, just have to figure this out before winter. Im running the Heat Selector on Warm and the Temperature Selector on Warm and still getting 190 degrees!

The other thing Im going to do is get another pressure guage. The machine has the High Pressure feature and its hard to pinpoint the lower Pressure settings for carpet cleaning.

I appreciate the input.
Does that hydraulic arm move correctly both sides when you turn the heat switch off and on with the machine at full throttle? I wonder if the flapper inside the heat exchanger is getting stuck open when your switch is on warm. That has been a problem in the past with that design
 

sassyotto

Member
Joined
Jun 7, 2013
Messages
1,096
Location
Wisconsin
Name
Paul
Does that hydraulic arm move correctly both sides when you turn the heat switch off and on with the machine at full throttle? I wonder if the flapper inside the heat exchanger is getting stuck open when your switch is on warm. That has been a problem in the past with that design
how would I tell?
 

BIG WOOD

MLPW
Joined
Feb 4, 2016
Messages
13,157
Location
Georgia
Name
Matt w.
how would I tell?
Turn the key switch on and turn the heat switch off and on and listen. You should be able to hear the flapper move.

Then do it with your temperature dial. Dial the temp all the way off and on and see if it gets jammed with the tm at full throttle. That’s the best way I could explain it without showing you.

The next step would be to do it with the coils removed from the heat exchanger and seeing it from the inside. I bet that’s your problem. Because that water should be room temperature with both switches on warm
 

Latest posts

Back
Top Bottom