To all the Portable'rs and Entry level truck mount'ers

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Inline heater like that do help with smaller TM's if they can handle the pressure. I had an old Century 400 inline heater that I tried with my Blazer and it worked good. I could notice a difference in heat for sure. It didn't last long but it was 20 years old. I'm sure the new ones are better. I then went to a Little Giant. That was much better
 
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BIG WOOD

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Inline heater like that do help with smaller TM's if they can handle the pressure. I had an old Century 400 inline heater that I tried with my Blazer and it worked good. I could notice a difference in heat for sure. It didn't last long but it was 20 years old. I'm sure the new ones are better. I then went to a Little Giant. That was much better
I'm just curious at how much more heat you'll gain with this. You would figure they'd at least advertise a gain in temp (10,15,20F). But there's no mention of how much it'll give you for $800
 

Papa John

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if you need an external heater-- I'd go with this for only $600
http://www.mytee.com/products/240120-mytee-hot-turbo/#.V8jPMHz6s0D.

I have one and rarely use it. my TMs produces enough heat. as for using it with a portable-- I have enough challenges finding enough power for my 2 corded portables... I only use it if no hot water is available for my porty.
 
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Cleanworks

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I have had that idea for years. I use an EDIC Heat&Run inline heater with my portable and it helps when I am doing trashed out suites. The problem is that it has to heat up the entire pressure line, your qd's, your wand solution line and finally come out of the jet or jets. Tremendous heat loss. It makes sense to generate the heat closer to where it is going to be used. They won't sell many with that stupid video. I don't have any problem finding a 3rd outlet when I am doing suites, impossible when doing highrise hallways. Also makes sense if you have a moderate heat tm on a long run, you can boost you heat a little. None of these heaters will keep up a steady heat. You have to modify your cleaning technique to adapt to it. I usually wet stroke half a room and dry stroke back, letting the heat recover. It's better than having no heat at all.
 
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Ron I have the EDIC 500psi and never use it but for more heat your wand jets must be 110 01 or 01.5 for the heat to stay hot. The outside heater is a good unit. jz.
 

Cleanworks

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Ron I have the EDIC 500psi and never use it but for more heat your wand jets must be 110 01 or 01.5 for the heat to stay hot. The outside heater is a good unit. jz.
I know. I usually a 4-6 flow on my portable and i've learned how to keep my heat up. I get 400 psi on a 6 flow and you can see the steam coming off the wand. Of course that's starting with hot tap water.
 

Ken692

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Can u post photos of your heaters, I think I need this bad, only thing i keep poping fuses when i have a helper run the second port or even the vacs, I know there is a ciruit tester but I'm running lean right now
 
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Cleanworks

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Can u post photos of your heaters, I think I need this bad, only thing i keep poping fuses when i have a helper run the second port or even the vacs, I know there is a ciruit tester but I'm running lean right now
You have to learn where separate circuits are. In suites, the kitchen counter plugs are usually separate from the hallway plugs. Hallway, bedroom/living/dining room plugs may be on the same circuit as the overhead lights. If you are running a portable that requires a 20 amp circuit, you are always going to have problems in older buildings. The largest electric heater you can run on a 15 amp circuit is 1850w. The edic says 2000 watts but also claims 14.1 amps. It can't be both, it's one or the other. Don't believe manufacturers claims about temps because they all lie. None will maintain any sort of continuous heat. You have to let it build and then rebuild. The longer you use it, the hotter it gets because your hoses and qd,s eventually heat up. It takes practice to make it work. Is Magic Wand going to be in Vegas? I would like to try it.
 

Willy P

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"212 degrees instant heat at the tip"- for how long? I don't buy it. The perfect heat system works really well, but the water preheats through the heat exchangers around the vac motors then through a electric heater. My kleenrite heat rites both are a 2 cord 3250 watt heater that does pretty good. It seems like yesterday that I ran the perfect heat with the heat rite and had constant heat just about equivalent to my 65000 BTU little giant propane heater but with the vac booster was 6 cords. I can't see tripping over cords attached to my wand plus the added weight on the wand.
 
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BIG WOOD

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The top bullet point says "all stainless steel, will never rust"....

...then further down the list it says "all aluminum" construction.??

1600w, do the math. 1600 x 3.5= 5600 BTU (won't be that efficient in use). Good for maybe 10-20 deg.F rise.
If your math is correct, than 20f is a good reason to buy it. But for the cost, they'll have to show some proof on a better video
 

Ed Valentine

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Great comments above.
Been doing this for over 40 years now and I can confirm what was stated above by many.

Basic rule of thumb: A 120v electric water heater will not keep up to any and especially, a high production cleaning process period. This means any machine capable of pressures over 100 psi, and it must have very low flow as well. No exceptions.

Remember, you can't fool Mother Watts, and certainly not in that case.
 
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Old Coastie

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Cleanworks

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As long as it's (is) well made and doesn't short out and electrocute the tech, it will have a strong value. Since I have been using my inline heater with my portable, I can't imagine going into a suite with out it. Is it like truck mount heat? No. But it is better than tap water heat. If my heater works well enough to make a noticeable difference with a 35 ft. Hose hooked up to it, imagine having the heated water right there, at the jet. There is a learning curve to managing your heat but I want one.
 

BIG WOOD

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I saw it in person and know the inventor.

I would be shocked if it didn't have value.
Since you know the inventor, can you get them to make a better video for us, showing the increase in heat with just hot tap water as the original source?
 

dgardner

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1600w, do the math.
OK - since you asked! I just saw this in the MW catalog that came in the mail, so I was curious as well.

1600W X 3.41 = 5456 btu/hour

portable-ish 02 jetting = approx. 0.5 gpm = 30 gal/hour = 250 lb/hour

5456 btu/hr / 250 lb/hr = 21.8° rise with continuous flow.

With 50% duty cycle (key down for back stroke, key up for dry stroke) could conceivably double that to approx. 44°.

So, with a faucet temp of 60° you could expect around a hundred degrees or so. Certainly better than a sharp stick in the eye.....

Assuming that the heater draws a true 1600W of course.

And minus whatever heat is lost due to the less-than-100%-perfect insulation blanket around the heater, naturally.
 

Cleanworks

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The way I use my heater is more like a 25-35 percent duty cycle. Trigger on down stroke, off on the up stroke. Start from the center of the room, work to the wall, then dry stroke back, letting the heat recover, then do the other side and repeat. I normally use a 3-4 flow with my portable but lately have been using my tm wand wand because it has a glide on it. At 6 flow, the heat increase is still very noticeable with a good cloud of steam rising from the wand.
 
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If you are feeding it 170 degree water it does help kick it up a notch. I was using 6 flow at the time. TM 6 flow not porty 6 flow. If running a porty get a little giant. You are not going to heat ice cold water with 1500 watts. Its hard to make any money unless you have a good machine IMO. Portables are for part time cleaners and high rise IMO
 
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OK - since you asked! I just saw this in the MW catalog that came in the mail, so I was curious as well.

1600W X 3.41 = 5456 btu/hour

portable-ish 02 jetting = approx. 0.5 gpm = 30 gal/hour = 250 lb/hour

5456 btu/hr / 250 lb/hr = 21.8° rise with continuous flow.

With 50% duty cycle (key down for back stroke, key up for dry stroke) could conceivably double that to approx. 44°.

So, with a faucet temp of 60° you could expect around a hundred degrees or so. Certainly better than a sharp stick in the eye.....

Assuming that the heater draws a true 1600W of course.

And minus whatever heat is lost due to the less-than-100%-perfect insulation blanket around the heater, naturally.

Your hot water faucet only gets to 60 degrees? Remind me not to shower at your house....

Use the hotest water available for an electric heater... But make sure you move fast enough not to burn out your pump with too hot of water...

I prefer my LG#2 heater with my portable when applicable... If I use electric heat, I use hot tap water, I have a built in heater that feeds a Mytee hotbox, then to the rv360i...

I'm a fan of heat...
 
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dgardner

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I was referring to the cold water faucet - hot not always available..... Sure, always use the hottest water available. Yup, prefer my LG2 when I can use it as well.
 

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