Traffic Lanes still dark

[jgasaway]

I was cleaning a restaurant the other day and tried the PROSCHOICE enzyme, mixed hot 2oz. per gal. The job was going great, but it was noticeable that it hadn't been cleaned in prob. 6 mos. I used some Proschoice power gel to get some really tough spots out, they stand out more now because of all the built up grime, grease and residue on the traffic areas. What is normal cleaning practice in this situation...forget the spotting and just clean? I am new at this and still learning, so please don't be too harsh.
Thanks,
Jeff

 

[Lyman]

Use a 175 rotor machine with a ricky g biege pad or a red pad to scrub your prespray and then extract. The best rest prespray in duane oxleys clean streak or larry cobbs powermax. The key is mechanical aggitation for great results.

 

[jgasaway]

It was mainly where the workers would come out of the kitchen. I have a nice steamway machine that runs very hot, but I don't have a rotary machine yet. Is this common enough that I should try and find a good used one? Would it be possible to use some type of push broom to agitate manually to start? I know that would be a tremendous amount of labor, but I am still in start-up phase.
Thanks-J

 

[joey895]

I bought a used 19 inch 175 for $100 and was well worth the money, although I would probably suggest getting a 17 inch one. I bought mine from a church but check anywhere that has a janitorial closet where one may be stashed away.

A deck brush will help but in my experience not nearly as much as a 175 plus the 175 will be a lot faster and less tiring.

 

[Dolly Llama]

as you probably know, what you have are cleaner spots where you used a stronger spotter (concentrated citrus gel) and hand agitation.

Since you're new to the game, and cleaning a restaurant, I'm going to ASSume that the price you're getting isn't very high.

So, you'll make even less money if you roto scrub and extract.
BTW, a rotary is still a great tool to have and you should by all means look to buy one when you're able.
Also, the advise about roto scrubbing is on the money.


Here's what I'd suggest you try.
Mix the pre-spray stronger and HOSE down the worst areas before you set up the hoses.
That will give the pre-spray longer dwell time

Don't be afraid to use MUCHO nuclear pre-spray either.
a gal of strongly mixed pre-spray applied to 150 sq ft isn't too much.

I've never used the P-spray you've mentioned.

I DO know that Prochem Powerburst mixed at 3 scoops pr gal in hot water is nuclear and will cut a whole host grimy soils .
Not just greasy spoons, but attacks a wide range of common soils found in rat nasty apts too

BridgePoint Power Break is also a heavy hitter that will smoke 'em

Bridgepoint however, is kind of on my sh1t list, and I'd recommend Powerburst.
But if your local disty only has Power Break on the shelf, don't hesitate to buy it


..L.T.A.

 

[Rex Tyus]

Good advice above. I would ask however, what you are rinsing with? If you are not gonna rotary a grease pit I would suggest a good emulsifier.

The prozyme is a really good prespray but on a real greasy pit do like Meat says and jack it up some more, like 3 or even 4 oz per gallon. unless they have changed the formula they don't recommend mixing with hotter than 150 deg water to prespray with.

I like to power burst those situations as well. While it can be done with prozyme it just isn't as economical at the higher dilution ratios. If you like the proschoice line they have some good emulsifiers that work really well also.

 

[Guest]

Reclean it with Harvard's Grim Releas Pro!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Spray on heavy and let it sit 5 minuntes, you will never use anything else again!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

[Dominick Cassano]

If you want to break that grease bond on a low paying restaurant job without breaking your checking account, mix up some purple power spiked with d=limonene in your hydroforce. spray it down hot, and agitate it with a garage broom (stiff bristles). Let it dwell for about 10 or 15 minutes then hit it with your regular rinse. Neutralize it afterwards or it'll ugly out again too quickly. try to sell them on protector for that area after you get it clean. Use an air mover to get it dry quickly.

 

[FLYERMAN]

Been there Done that. Here's what I do. Hit with a super hot mix then extract. Now re-prespray it and let it sit for as long as a half hour. It aint going to dry or nothing just going to boil in that prespray.

You're trying to get off in one pass what took many feet many steps to put down. I always found cleaning twice at a good clip to be more productive than cleaning once at a reduced speed. Granted not all areas of the place are going to need to be done like that but it sure works for the areas that do.

I used to use a rotory to scub with until I got a Steam Way Powermatic and better prespray. I use Powermax from Fibermax. I would use Chemspecs Enz-All in that situation.

BTW some presprays work better at or below reccommended dilution than they do if you raise the rate. So intead of just putting more than it calls for spray more down at the original dilution. That will work just about as often as raising the dilution and spraying down less.

Ken Raddon.

 

[gary mackay]

you can nuke it but if it's an olefin the traffic lanes are probably worn

 

[susansmith]

I find that Argosheen is very good on grease. It works for me when nothing else will.

 

[jgasaway]

I am going back to redo this one-"good-bye profit". I am new at this, but learning the hard way is okay sometimes. I will mix the enzyme a little stronger this time. I believe I didn't let it dwell long enough as most of you are describing. (I let the speed factor rush me).
My thoughts were to:
Pre-spray a little heavier, let sit for 5-10 mins., mist on some citri-solv or grease cutter, I will agitate it with a stiff brush by hand until I can't feel my arms (laughing), then extract.
Question: Do you agitate pre-spray after it dwells for some time or right away?

Has anyone used FLEX traffic lane cleaner? It says RTU = 12.5Ph, but has a dilution ratio for pre-spray (Does this mean it can be used in pure form-or would that be way too strong?)

Thank you guys for all the help, it is very much appreciated to know that there are others out there willing to lend some advice!
-Jeff

 

[Scott S.]

I've used Flex and its pretty strong at the 1:16 dilltion (i think thats what it is).. it will melt away grease.. when i got really really bad carpets like the greasy is so thick you cant hardly see the carpet. i mix it with boost all and citrus solve.. i got a pic of just a job like that..

btw. this is One single pass.

A closer look:

Jim Pemberton hooked me up with it about a year ago. and now its my nuke for the nasties..

 

[jgasaway]

I ordered some to try out. My first rest. was that way....so black n' nasty you couldn't even tell there was carpet under it... I don't know why people even eat there???? My next one isn't quite as bad, but a close second..LOL!
I have citri-solv to boost, not familiar with boost all.

Thanks so much for the feedback.

 

[Dolly Llama]

Has anyone used FLEX traffic lane cleaner?

we used Flex years ago. It's a sledge hammer for grease and should work well for you on that grease pit

It says RTU = 12.5Ph, but has a dilution ratio for pre-spray (Does this mean it can be used in pure form-or would that be way too strong?)

that means the ph is 12.5 when mixed RTU, not straight.
Mix it at max, 8 to 1. (16oz pr gal)
No need to mix stronger with Flex, cause it won't work much, if any better beyond max recommended like some pre-sprays will.
You'll just be wasting Flex by mixing stronger.

as far as when to agitate, some dwell before agitation is better.

Again, I'll suggest, hose it down first (with or without agitation) then set up the TM, agitate an area, then fire up the TM and rock and roll.

Post a follow up on this thread to let us know how you did

as far as "learning the hard way"...
As long as it's something simple like a re-do on a greasy synthetic and not replacing 100 yards of wool Axminster you ruined,..
the School of Hard Knocks is often the best class available.

I personally earned my Bachelor's degree from the School of Hard Knocks.

My graduate studies on the way to a Phd degree are from the BTU (Black Top University)


..L.T.A.

 

[jgasaway]

That was hillarious... I guess it could be much worse. I'll keep that in mind!
Thanks,
J

 

[Rex Tyus]

Flex is weak version of Castrol Super Clean right? Or am I thinking of something else?

 

[Dolly Llama]

Flex is weak version of Castrol Super Clean right? Or am I thinking of something else?

nah, Unless they've changed the formula from years ago when we abused it, it's much stronger than Castrol.

Not only heavy butyl, but also a sodium hydroxide kicker


..L.T.A.

 

[Art Kelley]

Yeah baby!

 

[wired]

I am going to do a wool carpet on friday It is very dirty and the cust. says she spilled salad oil on it and it has been there for quiet a long time. Question is how should I clean this being it is wool. I have bust all judson juice and flex. Thanks Steve

 

[TimP]

Flex is weak version of Castrol Super Clean right? Or am I thinking of something else?

nah, Unless they've changed the formula from years ago when we abused it, it's much stronger than Castrol.

Not only heavy butyl, but also a sodium hydroxide kicker


..L.T.A.

I've used some flex before. It's not very cost effective vs other products. But it's the only PS that I've put down and you can actually watch the floor change and look clean just from the PS.

My wife and I were cleaning up our fiberglass boat yesturday on the inside and I pulled out a gallon of flex sitting in my truck and poured it direct on the filth. The dirt emulsifies really quick with it especially with some aggitation. Needless to say the boat looks a lot better....dawn or any other cleaner don't come close to it. Next time we clean it I plan to get some purple power stuff to see how it does.



Now on subject restaurants should be cleaned with a PS like powerburst probably boosted with citrus/dilimonene. If you can't get it out with nukeing it, scrubing with a 175 and using a strong emulsifier then it probabaly aint coming up. Or least it's not worth it for what restaurants are usually willing to pay. I'd say at that point they need to replace, and when they do strongly recommend Nylon for restaurant use. Olefin is not suited in the least for restaurants!!!

 

[daniel@procarpet]

After reading the original quote, I can say I think the problem you are experiencing is because your prespray is drying out. Restaurants with caked on grease need to be presprayed with a quality enzyme prespray. Prochem powerburst is the only prespray you need to clean a restaurant. If you are using a pump sprayer, treat a small area (no more than 300 sq. ft) and apply very leberally. The grease on the carpet will cause the prespray the dry out much faster. You can literally soak the carpet and come back in 15 minutes and it will feel dry. I always use a hydroforce and apply the prespray liberally and still use the wand to wet certain areas down again before extracting. As far as using Flex on restaurant carpet, I would not recommend it. Protein grease is more effectively removed with an enzyme which is an amino acid or catalyst that speeds up the time a chemical reaction takes to occur. Don't use Flex on restaurant grease. Same thing with Purple Power, Greased Lightening etc. Use an Enzyme, treat a small area, extract, and then repeat. Another thing is if the restaurant goes months without having their carpet cleaned, you may have to treat and extract some areas more than once because the grease is caked on in layers. Charge accordingly.