Vortex/ AT owners...

Mikey P

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Take apart your EDV tomorrow and lube it up good.


If you dont know what a EDV is call Jim Martin and have him walk you through the process.

talk like Goober and tell him your name is merty from Georgia




Just a friendly reminder to take care of the heart and soul of your machine.
 

rhyde

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rhyde
Mikey P said:
Take apart your EDV tomorrow and lube it up good.


If you dont know what a EDV is call Jim Martin and have him walk you through the process.

talk like Goober and tell him your name is merty from Georgia




Just a friendly reminder to take care of the heart and soul of your machine.


what are you using to lube yours
 

dealtimeman

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i lube mine regularly and now i am ridiculously fast at doing it. from start to finish it takes me about three minutes. i dont take mine off the trucks i just drive it into the shop take the nut off, jiggle the arm away from the shaft, then pull the shaft out using some vice grips . i will usually degrease the shaft quickly, inspect it and run some emory cloth over it for about 15 seconds. then i roll up the emory cloth and hit it on the inside of the shaft wall. blow everything with a compressed air and lube the inner shaft wall and the shaft and reinstall. just like new!

i will say the first time i did it it took me a couple of hours to get the shaft out because everything was rust-like-frozen in place.

if you do it once a month it should never lock up on you, :D
 

Tony Dees

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Mine worked great for 2 years, then went to shit. Over the past prob 3 weeks total I've blown 2 Paraflex at the reel(if it wasn't bolted down, it would be down the street), burned up 2 Hurricanes(black death), and had 5 bubbling Paraflexes fixed.

Over 400 degrees the first time, about 358, then 320 or so. Finally AT sent me a new flapper for the internal. Keeping my fingers crossed, only been a week so far. I still have to fix another hose and pick up one. I've done everything but piss on it. Maybe I should try that. Just hoping I don't screw something up in the mean time.
 

Tony Dees

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The one they sent was shaved down a bit more so that it has more clearance. Other than that, no difference in the actual design.
 

Jim Martin

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Tony Dees said:
The one they sent was shaved down a bit more so that it has more clearance. Other than that, no difference in the actual design.


This makes no since to me......I thought you had the older style but found out that it was the newer type...never the less it is still pretty much the same animal just a different design........

If the flapper is not seating because it is a tad to big then all you are going to get is blow by....meaning that when you are sitting at an idle with the machine off you should feel some exhaust coming out of the lower HX..or when you are running the machine...not all the exhaust is going to the HX you will have some coming out the tail pipe....

If the flapper is sticking in the open position and you are driving around you will cook you HX and probably crack on of the chambers....

When you start cleaning..apparently your temps are coming up...(?)..so this would tell me that the EVD is probably working but it is reaching the set temp and not releasing the flapper so it is getting hotter and hotter until you blow a hose...

If you keep an eye on the little pop cycle stick and it is opening and closing like it is supposed to...blow by or not it is working correctly....and if this is the case I would start looking at the temp probes and things like that because something is not telling it that it has hit your set temp and to release the valve.....

A good way to check it is to run you set temp all the way down and start the machine and see if the EVD stays closed......then run the set temp up to about 250 and see if it opens and exhaust out the HX and then get the water temp up to 250 and see if it will release........




Re-thinking this while I was making my lunch for the day......If AT went with a cheaper (softer) type metal on the newer style EVD..then when it closes it may be expanding and sticking...then when it cools it will release....There is that chance I guess but very unlikely....
 

AshleyMckendree

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Cheese'n RICE! You V/AT owners post more issues than anyone else... How can you afford the payment$ and get nickel & dimed to DEATH??


Since December my Mercedes driven monstrosity has only needed a fuel filter, cause I run it on Veggie Oil... All pump/blower alignments where done by eyeballing them, and the main drive pulley machined using harbor freight bench tools... the 2 green belts driving the blower aren't even showing wear yet.

What did my machine cost me?

$200 rebuild the Mercedes diesel eng. I had laying around.

$80 to "Industrialize" the eng.

$120 to rebuild my general pump

$70 Bearings for my #5 Blower

$100 Pulleys

$46 for green belts

$5 for the diamond plate aluminum loading ramp I used as a frame

$0 for a helicoil heat exchanger I found at a scrap yard when buying said frame


$621.00 grand total... that's less than a monthly payment on a BIG TRUCK.

Got to love Po'Boy engineering!
 

hogjowl

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We don't have any more issues than anyone else. We just discuss our rigs more than the average broke dick because we like to talk about our rigs. The reason you get the impression that we have more maintenance issues than you do is two fold.

1) You slide in broke dicks have grown tired of talking about your mechanical problems over the years. They've all been discussed to death.

2) You can't help but read a thread between Vortex owners because you have a huge case of penis envy.
 

AshleyMckendree

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admiralclean said:
We don't have any more issues than anyone else. We just discuss our rigs more than the average broke dick because we like to talk about our rigs. The reason you get the impression that we have more maintenance issues than you do is two fold.

1) You slide in broke dicks have grown tired of talking about your mechanical problems over the years. They've all been discussed to death.

2) You can't help but read a thread between Vortex owners because you have a huge case of penis envy.

3) I'm a homosexual and enjoy the company of multiple male companions at the same time.

FIXED
 

dealtimeman

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shawn i converted my v to a conventional heat exchanger mounted in the same location and the same size of the previous lower exchanger. i had a local fabricator make me a heat exchanger made of all stainless then we mounted in the same position as original. in over 200 hours i have only had one failure and it was a ignorant failure. i told my assistant to set the temp on the machine and he set it to 350 thinking that if he set it higher it would get hotter faster, again just ignorant, he didnt unerstand how the system works. the only thing that happended was that the goodyear 3/8 hose ripped right at the crimp at the heat exchanger and discharged steam for about 20 seconds till the water incoming into to exchanger cooled the exchanger down to 170 or so then it was just hot water. it wasnt spraying everywhere just a solid stream under the truck. i have now wrapped that 3/8 hose in that insulated orange jacket stuff and zip tied it in the event i have another break it should buy me a minute to shut down. know all my helper know that the machine is set to 240 and no higher. also i added a ball valve on the exchanger just a few inches off the thermocouple in the event the flapper stays engaged while driving it will just blow the steam out and when i turn on the unit the we read the DTC and if it is higher than 200 i will open the ball valve for thirty seconds and let the water that is about 160 degrees cycle though and cool it to at least 180 so i can use the hydroforce.
 

Jim Martin

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you can save yourself a hell of a lot of headaches and move the solenoid valve into the truck and out from under the frame ...where it will stay clean and dry...Mine has been inside going on about a year now and I have had no problems......plenty of vacuum on the booster pump to make up for the extra air line....
 

Jim Martin

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Shawn York said:
[quote="Tony Dees":3ruvan3r]Mine worked great for 2 years, then went to shit. Over the past prob 3 weeks total I've blown 2 Paraflex at the reel(if it wasn't bolted down, it would be down the street), burned up 2 Hurricanes(black death), and had 5 bubbling Paraflexes fixed.

Over 400 degrees the first time, about 358, then 320 or so. Finally AT sent me a new flapper for the internal. Keeping my fingers crossed, only been a week so far. I still have to fix another hose and pick up one. I've done everything but piss on it. Maybe I should try that. Just hoping I don't screw something up in the mean time.

Over the last year and a half I have on occasion questioned the value of the Vortex Xentherm heat transfer system. This was primarily because of the complete lack of overheating "incidents" I had heard from AT users in the field. When I first heard the Areo Tech would be using conventional heating technology I was convinced that somebody was going to get hurt. The very first Vortex prototypes built used conventional heat exchange technology as well.

I had two "incidents" when doing some early testing that scared me so bad I completely abandoned the idea. Unless you have ever been around a ruptured plumbing system with 3000psi rated exchangers and 460 degree water you could never understand. I found part of a circle seal ball valve handle over thirty feet away from the machine after the second "incident".

I've been eating some crow until 4 days ago. This makes two incidents that just remind me that no matter how you slice it up, a locked diverter valve will heat water over 400 degrees if there is no Xentherm fluid to cushion and absorb excess heat. The heat that comes out of the exhaust of a vehicle is a whole different animal than the heat that comes out of a traditional slide-in machine engine. Capturing all that heat is easy - it's what to do with the heat when someting goes wrong that requires the "artistic" engineering.

Yeah, the Xentherm transfer system may spit some oil on the floor of your truck once in a while if you don't maintain your diverter - and yeah, it makes the machine a bit more expensive up front - and yeah it costs a couple hundred bucks more a year for the magic fluid - but it will also keep you from having to remove a hose reel from the Mrs' Jones Mercedes windshield - or having to retrain your newly blinded technician how to clean couches in the shop by "feel".

To those of you who I expressed any doubt to - I hereby fully take all my words back. I'm a hardcore Xentherm fan.

I'm curious - have any other AT owners had any "close calls"?[/quote:3ruvan3r]

at this point in time one of the biggest things that is holding me back from buying a new AT is that there is no therm oil HX on them anymore......The therm oil is a PITA at times but just like all the other machines out there...once you get a good grip on it and just do your maintenance like you are supposed to it does its job and will serve you well.......I run my machine hard and it has not had a good break for a while now and I am sure that if that isolated shield was not put around the lower HX to allow it to hold all that moister and rust it would still be working today.....same with the muffler.....mine is pretty much shot because of all the moister the shield has been holding and allowing it to rust......The entire exhaust system is my next project when I get back from vacation... ( along with 500 other things I have going )

I like the new AT and I like that they have pretty much stayed with the older design..it is more user friendly....But that huge water heat changer behind the hose reel.. running off the EVD and lower HX just does not make me all warm and fuzzy.....I understand what the therm oil is doing cushion and absorb excess heat.....I have worked on a lot of huge boiler systems and there is nothing more scary then to mess with hot water generated by raw heat....there is no room for forgiveness...........


BTW........ replacing the flapper still does not make any since to me.........
 

Jim Martin

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OK mike..I don't know what the hell happened but I posted a response to your post and when I summit it my post came up with your profile on it.... :shock:

So I went to figure out what happen and when I tried to delete it...it took yours out also....

sorry for removing yours..but here is your post and my responce ......

I know of a few guys in cold climates (Vortex owners) that can't heat their water in the winter very well. Takes half the day to get it going over 215, and then it falls really quick too. I think At would be a better choice for extremely cold areas.
........(Mikes Draper's post ^^)




I know that in the winter here ( which is not half as bad as most get it )...Mine will not heat up as well as it does in the summer...I think it is about a 20 degree difference....But once it gets up to temp it does not have any problems holding it threw out the day.......

The AT heat exchanger was another concern that I brought up when they first came out regarding the guys in the below freezing temps if the HX being full of nothing but water would freeze and crack....same with the lower HX hanging on the outside of the truck having nothing but water in it and driving in below freezing temps to get to a job has got to effect it some....but I have yet to here of anyone having any problems with them freezing......Time will tell I guess...........
 

Mike Draper

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Pretty much all the cleaners in my valley have a heated garage, so generally going from garage to your job prolly won't freeze, But we have a lot of time in the winter where the temp never goes over 10deg for weeks at time. this is where the V's have a hard time heating up. Actually, every tm guy i know has a hard time with getting heat when it's that cold. I've been thinkin about an AT for that reason. Also, they are in Utah to. My budget is about 55g's, so i'll have to find something used.
 

Jim Martin

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I don't know what the hell happened I was just trying to get the mans post back up....I am not sure if I hit the wrong button or what But ya should of seen my face when my post came up with his profile.....
 

dealtimeman

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i think if there was an electronicly temperature controled blow out valve or thermocouple and dtc with a shutdown feature on the A/T exchanger it would increase safety and lower some of the doubt. what i dont understand is why we are nervous if accros the boards there (at least to my knowledge) been any accidents with the A/T exchanger setup.
 

Tony Dees

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Feb 25, 2007
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Shawn and Jim,

I haven't heard of any one else having issues like me. Billy Hicks truck (although he has a Fuso) and mine came in the same order. He hasn't said anything about anything.

My truck is turning 40,000 miles and 1400 hrs.

Both times the hose blew on the reel, I didn't have the reel in the locked position. I hear pop and walk outside and see my reel spinning and spiting hot water everywhere.

I also as per there instruction, take the breather stone off and soaked it in a solvent to clean it.

Jim, testing the temperature, watching the pop cycle stick as you call it, all is well with that. But I have gone out to the truck and manually flip it back by hand. Yes I have been lubricatiing the system every week, but wasn't told to clean the flapper every 300 hrs.

Now with this new flapper, I have a week of time on it and no issues yet.

Thanks for all the help and opinions
 

Bruce Parsons

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Nov 23, 2006
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Tony, and everybody else who has an AT or Vortex. Check and make sure that the nut holding the lever on the rotor ( or flapper) stem is tight! Ours for whatever reason came undone by itself, and dropped through the slot out onto the street. At first glance it looks as if everything is fine because the lever moves like it's supposed to except for one exception, and that is the rotor was not!

The lever had slid down to a point where it was just riding on the threads of the rotor shaft giving a false indicator that it was working properly. Of course the easiest way to determine whether or not the EDV valve is working, is to simply crawl under the truck and check the air flow from the exhaust.....

It's amazing how complacent one gets when the unit has performed so flawlessly for over a year with no problems. Lesson learned, these are mechanical devices and all mechanical devices will fail at some point, that's why it's so important to follow the directions that Shawn has posted here for us. Thanks Shawn for doing that, I'm sure it will help prevent problems for other owners, regardless if it's an AT or Vortex.

I just wanted to post this info. about the nut because of what happened to us. A 5 cent nut blew out a expensive HX. I now know that they come with a cotter pin in them so this won't happen in the future, but everyone reading this should check theirs to make sure it's not loose or even missing. It doesn't take long when driving, for the HX to get incredibly hot, hopefully everybody's HX has a working pressure relief valve.

Preventive maintenance is always the best kind. Hopefully this helps.

Bruce
 

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