WATER BOX...AVENGER 210

joe harper

Member
Joined
Oct 21, 2008
Messages
4,993
Location
florida
Name
joe harper
WOW........6 hours....not a PEEP :shock:

I guess the poor guy's.......don't stand a chance :?:















Wonder how my Vortex down...... post is doing :?: :?: :?: probably 6008 replies :roll:
Well let's check-it..........it has had about 1 hr "soak-time" :wink:
 
Joined
Oct 7, 2006
Messages
1,035
Location
Hastings, NE
Name
Eric Valentine
Why would you want to bypass it? Do you still have the heat exchangers?

I have a modified avenger 210. Got it from John at Superior Cleaning Solutions in Orem, UT.
 

joe harper

Member
Joined
Oct 21, 2008
Messages
4,993
Location
florida
Name
joe harper
Thanks, Eric

Thats strange....Same heat exchanger from John :!:

I gave this machine to a freind ...down on his luck.

The float valve is not working....flooding the van...I can't find parts anywhere...
I was wondering since HX'ers are disconnected ? It looks like you could just take water supply direct to the inlet side of the pump ? And by-pass the water box ?
Can this be done ?


BTW...That heat x-changer ROCKS :!:
 

joe harper

Member
Joined
Oct 21, 2008
Messages
4,993
Location
florida
Name
joe harper
Sorry Eric,

Mis-read your post...My heat exchangers were shot & modified with HX from
Johns custom Machines...Unreal heat from his HX...
 
Joined
Oct 7, 2006
Messages
1,035
Location
Hastings, NE
Name
Eric Valentine
Mine has the heat exchangers removed, and mufflers for the exhaust. #3 little giant for the heat.

My water box has a float switch that opens or closes a solenoid valve (water level low, switch closes, triggering the valve to open). My chem feed is a adjustable dwyer meter, and an dema valve. When the incoming water flows, it siphons. Very simple and reliable system, but I have to have good water flow on the incoming water, or it won't draw (had one today where the house had low water pressure and flow, and could watch it TRY to draw, but only get 1/2 way up the tube)

I can't find any documentation on the 210's anywhere online. It would be nice to know how everything was set up originally (to see what all was changed on mine).
 

joe harper

Member
Joined
Oct 21, 2008
Messages
4,993
Location
florida
Name
joe harper
Eric,

I also searched everywhere also....NOTHING....

I have the manual...but it has NO schematics :twisted:

The previous owner has changed some of the plumbling :? :?

I hooked the water source up directly to the Pump...

Great heat & pressure :!: BUT the W-box still filled-up :?: :?: :?:

I think it is the pressure reg. By-passing into the W-box :?:

If i cap off that hose.....I am afraid it will create extreem back-pressure :idea:
 
Joined
Mar 29, 2008
Messages
9,473
Location
Hawaii
Name
Nate W.
HARPER said:
Eric,

I also searched everywhere also....NOTHING....

I have the manual...but it has NO schematics :twisted:

The previous owner has changed some of the plumbling :? :?

I hooked the water source up directly to the Pump...

Great heat & pressure :!: BUT the W-box still filled-up :?: :?: :?:

I think it is the pressure reg. By-passing into the W-box :?:

If i cap off that hose.....I am afraid it will create extreem back-pressure :idea:


I was in the same boat as you. I just got a Century 400 Eliminator tm. It was made by Prochem after they bought century 400. Anyhow, it has almost the same components as the avenger 210. 20hp water cooled kawasaki motor, #4 blower, hypro pump, water box.

Les had me redo the plumbing, taking all that junk off since my exhaust HX was no good and I always ran little giant heaters.

Since you still run heat exchangers, disconnect the electric shut off float and get a manual float from grainger.com. You will still hook up the water the same way but having the float put on where the water goes into the water box to fill it up. It will be a manual shut off like a toilet tank. No need to worry about flooding anymore and nothing electrical to short out.

http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/wwg/pr ... =Valves%2C
 

SMRBAP

Supportive Member
Joined
Mar 29, 2009
Messages
667
Location
Pittsburgh PA
Name
Anthony
I have a 210 with manual and schematics, the bypass does hit the waterbox - I just put new HP & LP seals in the pump last Thursday.

I may be able to get you the parts you need - are you needing the two wire float valve?

E-mail me your fax number and I'll get you copy's of the schems to - anthony@indianacleaning.com and I'll see if I can't get you that part. If there is anything else it needs let me know those items too. I have a source for most of the parts.
 

floorguy

Supportive Member
Joined
Nov 7, 2006
Messages
6,948
Location
Utah
Name
Doug
this is for you to eric so read...

dump the fookin electrical one....go to home depot or lowes or where ever, get a cooler float...cut the stem for the float back so it fits (damn that thing is narrow) and get all the other hook ups from a hose store...


I have stripped out 90% of all those damn hoses...talk about a traffic jam..

my engine exchanger went bye-bye and now i just have the blower side. but it to is about to be bye-bye..

Ill take a few pics and post tomorrow
 

Latest posts

Back
Top Bottom