Wood floor issue

boazcan

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Bryan C
Here are some pics of a distressed wood floor (floating) that has some powered flea treatment on it. It was spread on, let sit for 1 week. Vacuumed up twice, but still had some residual on floor. Then mopped. The result is it mixed with the treatment and got into every distress mark in the wood.

It would not remove with dry brush by hand. Only a slight removal with a neutral cleaner (5 mins dwell) and hand brush scrub. It looks like one to stay away from as I may end up owning their problem.

What do you think?

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K P

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Nov 11, 2011
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206
I would say that the risk is high that the flushing it would need,(even with us being able to extract immediately)to remove it,would buckle it in areas.
 

boazcan

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Lee Stockwell said:
I'd get it off. Don't get spooked over getting it wet. The right tool and it wouldn't be wet for more than 5 seconds.

Spinner?
4 jet hard surface tool?
Dirt Dragon?

Would you mop on a higher pH product for dwell?

Oh, its 4th floor in middle of complex. Not a huge issue for out AT, but a PIA nonetheless.
 

Dale

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Oct 30, 2006
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Tenn
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Dale Collins
Hi guys:

As the only Certified wood floor Inspector In my area, I have done several wood inspections on aggressively scraped, “distressed” and/or “hand scraped” wood floors, that were later prefinished, that had real problems. And If I am seeing this one correctly it looks like one of them.

What happens is the “scraping” is done with wire cones, and it leaves the wood grain so open that when the finish is later applied, it leaves voids that later splinter and absorb anything that gets in them. If this is what you have here, I’d call the manufacture and put a claim in. With the ones that I have inspected the manufacture does not accept them as defects, because they say that’s what handscraped and distressed means, but to my knowledge they did make some sort of “settlement as a courtesy”.

Sincerely,
Dale
http://www.flooringinspector.com
 

tmdry

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Bill Martins
It's not worth going thru the hassle to do something like that. But we have done it w/ an air compressor and air compressor wand, plus TM vac in a controlled chamber zipwall, air scrubber, no need to get the floors wet since it wouldn't even touch it. Charged $$$ since it's slow, need 2-3 guys. It was that or replacement.
 

joe harper

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Bryan.

If it is a "floating floor"...it is more than likely a LAMINATE floor..? "NOT WOOD"

The joints a extremely "tight" from the pics..!

Hand scrub a demo area with some Murphy's oil soap..
Then take your "glide" Ti-wand...dry and see what results you get...?

If that works...come pick-up 1 of my 175's with the brush attachment..AND HAVE @ IT... LIKE!

ps..You can CRANK-UP the "ph"..with a light degreaser if you want to.... :idea: "Just test..test..test."
 

boazcan

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Product

http://www.homedepot.com/buy/outdoors/garden-center/safer-brand/4-lb-diatomaceous-earth-78567.html

MSDS

http://www.homedepot.com/catalog/pd...bd63ca002666.pdf?cm_mmc=seo|altruik|202072089


I did 2 test areas with a hand brush and cleaner - was not happy. There was still plenty in there. It is wood-not laminate. It is the same stuff that is in my house. The floor is very tight. The concern is not with the joints, but putting that much moisture into the distress marks. The wood swells and then pops @ the joints.

I was actually thinking of using a CRB machine with white brushes. This will get into the grooves much better than a 175 or orbital.
 

dgargan

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Nov 14, 2006
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Lees right don't be a sissy when it comes to extracting wood or laminate. Low heat, low pressure and any tile tool will be fine. We have done it for years. Most homeowners will over wet the floor more while mopping than we do with a tile tool
 

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