It has those grains that you can feel. I can't remember the exact name of it right now, so if any of you know what I'm talking about...can you help? I'm sure I can do a decent cleaning, but how can I apply finish to that. I don't think the maroon or screen will work. Any ideas or experience?
Working on hardwood that isn't completely smooth
- Thread starter BIG WOOD
- Start date
Mikey P
Administrator
Hand Scraped?
I don't know if it's hand scraped or not. You can just feel the grooves from the wood grain. It's not completely smooth
Cleanworks
Moderator
Use a thick lambs wool pad under your mop stick. You should get enough finish I I depressions. I have the same thing at home but in laminate. Seems to work for me
I have a lambs wool pad, but I don't plan on using a Polyurethane. I plan on using Bridgepoint's finish
How should I scuff it up so it can be applied to it?
Cleanworks
Moderator
Do you really need to scuff it up? It will be difficult in the grooves. I don't have a lot of experience with real hardwood. I can't think of any machine that is going to get into the grooves well. What would scuff the rest of the floor with and why?
Mikey P
Administrator
That's not the grain you're feeling if its "handscraped".
Which a machine accomplishes..
Which a machine accomplishes..
Old Coastie
Supportive Member
Matt, if the grain pattern is enhanced (sandblasting, wire brushed) then I suggest pre-cleaning with floor stripper, your CRB and vacuum recovery.
Then use Bridgepoint's cleaner, doing the same thing, just because they say it is necessary.
If it is that scooped, hand-hewn look, you can do the same thing. Supposedly their product does not require pre-sanding to bond.
Me, I'd probably set up ventilation and wipe the surface to be coated with Xylol or Acetone. Both will create an explosive atmosphere. Acetone is neurologically harmless, while Xylol will turn you into (insert favorite forumite here). Either will leave a well-prepped surface.
Good luck!
Then use Bridgepoint's cleaner, doing the same thing, just because they say it is necessary.
If it is that scooped, hand-hewn look, you can do the same thing. Supposedly their product does not require pre-sanding to bond.
Me, I'd probably set up ventilation and wipe the surface to be coated with Xylol or Acetone. Both will create an explosive atmosphere. Acetone is neurologically harmless, while Xylol will turn you into (insert favorite forumite here). Either will leave a well-prepped surface.
Good luck!
You're right on that.
The reason I want to scuff it is so the new finish will attach to the previous finish
Do you think two maroon pads and some extra weight on my 175 would get deeper in the hand scraped grooves?
Lee Stockwell
FOJL
Use a screen disc.
What screen do you recommend?
Lee Stockwell
FOJL
It's dangerous to give/get advice on hardwood without knowing your level of experience, or what I'd see on your floor.
Usually start with coarse and follow with fine, but if you're not sure just use the fine one first. 150, or so.
Usually start with coarse and follow with fine, but if you're not sure just use the fine one first. 150, or so.
steve_64
Member
- Joined
- Aug 11, 2012
- Messages
- 13,371
And put a pad on the driver and the screen disk on the pad.
jtsunbrite
Member
Matt use a blue or green scrub pad they are soft enough to get to most of it, I have done these before, a maroon or screen could sand the ridges and mess up the flooring,, I have use a flat mop to apply finish to these but if you don't feel it will work just use a reg rayon finish mop. good luck
