Sierra Clean Care
Member
Anyone heard of or used chemicals or products from a company called Chem Max?
Apparently Sam at IIA Carmeli is going to bring in some products from them. I have been looking at their product line up. Some interesting products. Specialty products to prevent or control dye bleed, oxidizers and reducers as well as pest control. They seem to have been around for a while. I'm curious to see what anyone else thinks of their cleaning line.Anyone heard of or used chemicals or products from a company called Chem Max?
That’s where I got the lead from....Apparently Sam at IIA Carmeli is going to bring in some products from them. I have been looking at their product line up. Some interesting products. Specialty products to prevent or control dye bleed, oxidizers and reducers as well as pest control. They seem to have been around for a while. I'm curious to see what anyone else thinks of their cleaning line.
Anyone heard of or used chemicals or products from a company called Chem Max?
Is it any good?sure, twenty years ago... That's Paul Lucas' stuff.
F if I know, Paul's a dick so I never bothered.....lolIs it any good?
Oh.F if I know, Paul's a dick so I never bothered.....lol
I did order some Soap Daddy stuff. I got some Bio 08, and the powder P-Sor....BUY some and experience it for yourself
Oh.I tuned down both of his offers to do so.
the FACT that he befriended Saiger, spent countless hours on the phone with him getting schooled on industry politics, personality and chemistry then turns around and rips off his sealer formula and it's name and gloats about is DICK MOVE #1.
Dick move #2 is stealing the Dry Slurry name AND formula and boasting about it and calling Legends racist when they ask him to change it up
even before any of this happened I never saw a reason to try his stuff. embarrassing labels, stupid names and just more of the same o'l shit.
95% of the pallet is Saigers products....he's an even bigger dick, shame on you
Like all the big powder pushers are such nice guys.
Very well said Robert. I think one of the main differences between implant rug washing and in-home carpet cleaning is the liability factor. If something goes wrong, you don't want to be found using your own home made products. It's mainly for that reason that we carry the sds info on all our products. I have found that there is often little difference between respected chemical lines. They all do the same thing with some minor differences such as foaming or dilution ratios. Often it comes down to availability and price. I was privileged to work in a rug washing plant run by an owner who came from the dry cleaning industry. In my own small rug operation, I still use a lot of products from a local dry cleaner supplier. If I am ever in Denver I would love to see your operation.Seems like this topic brings out some strong opinions. OK if I add mine?
First off, I do not clean installed carpet. We run a wet-wash in-plant cleaning operation for area rugs; my opinions about cleaning chemicals are specific to that process. Could be what I do is exactly wrong for a guy with a truck mount.
We buy few pre-mixed or formulated products, with some notable exceptions. We use a formulated traffic lane (old-school chemistry, custom blended for us by a local formulator in 55 gallon drums) that we use as a spotter and 'booster' for the relatively low concentration detergent (laurel sulfate) which is our basic base cleaning agent. We buy Formula M from Masterblend, but in a pinch we simply add peroxide to Chemspec enzyme pre-spray. We also buy Fringe Plus from Centrum and a few different odor treatment products, U-Turn and Urine Loc. That's about it. The formulated stuff we buy makes up a very small - but important - percentage of the total amount of chemical agents we use in cleaning.
Mostly what we use are things we buy in bulk, and in their simplest form. Our primary detergent is laurel sulfate which we buy in drums and dilute to about 3% by weight. We buy citric acid, glacial acetic acid, ammonia in regular household concentration, di-chlor (Zep Aztech), sodium hydrosulfite, bicarbonate of soda, 35% peroxide, a little hydrofluoric acid spotter and titanium stripper. Our wash room runs on warm water (rinse lines come out at 100F, power wash guns run between 120F - 140F, and our wash tanks are at about 100F) so we use something like about half as much 'chemistry' for most operations than plants running 40F-60F water.
We don't buy gallon jugs of 'secret' formulations (most of which are probably made from the chemicals listed above, or something close to it) whose content, strength, and action are 'proprietary secrets' we are left to wonder about. Proprietary postures protect profit (how's that for a little alliteration), and I understand why chemical formulators do this. But, being a slave to the 25 gallon jugs they say you can't live without is not the only way to clean rugs. Certainly, smaller packaging is more 'to scale' for a smaller volume operation, but you can get most of this stuff in smaller put-ups.
There is a lot of literature about how cleaning chemistry works and much can be learned from industrial dry cleaning and laundry sources. There are good classes that are not designed to sell you specific product lines, but rather deal with base chemicals and their function. I have read statements about how 'citric leaves rugs sticky' and 'hydro is not as strong as our dye run remover', but most of these statements - while possibly true in some limited sense - don't really make distinctions that matter. Basic chemistry works. If you don't believe me stop by our plant and we can wash a few rugs together. You'll see what I mean.
Oh stop. You didn’t understand that any better than the rest of us.Yep.