Wand Technique

[Rick J]

Key is the right balance of squirting and sucking!!

a Higher volume of solution , while seeming to flush well , does no good if not recovered.

Thinking YOUR nasty berber. That stuff can be difficult to recover the solution because of it's nubbiness., Also, it often is sculptured with patterns, that keep your wand up off the carpet ever so slightly.
Your TOOL, whatever it is sometimes does not recover efficiently because it can lose its seal to the carpet fiber.

And now to start some trouble! Try using some kind of VLM on that berber!! Heck, just use some juice of choice in a few spot with a towel. Not overwetting.
Or maybe get your buddies to bend over, since they probably caused it.

 

[foosballnerd]

In my world, any guy named Rick has got to be cool. I'll going to order some encap stuff (VLM chemical I hope, and what would your juice of choice be. never mind, I'll just call Prochem again). I don't understand how the encap VLM surround the soil crystalize thingy is going to get rid of the wicking. I appreciate the advice with the towel and not over wetting, in a few spots. And nobody is trying to bend my buddies over, they're not that pretty. If you can shoot a shot left handed from your goalie, at least your not spinning. You don't sound old, but who am I kidding, I got one foot on a banana peel, and the other on 50 yrs. Oh, it's winter. Does freezing hurt chemicals?

 

[foosballnerd]

Bought some Procap S745, liquid slurry (they sent me Xl333 instead of the slurry last time, which was probably my fault), some citrus stuff, and some enzyme related product (is this stuff going to work the same after it freezes?). And some more oxy boost stuff. The next thing on the wish list is an Oreck Orbiter. Every time I look into something it seems like my wallet gets used and abused. Thanks guys, seriously, thank you for putting up with me.

 

[BIG WOOD]

Bought some Procap S745, liquid slurry (they sent me Xl333 instead of the slurry last time, which was probably my fault), some citrus stuff, and some enzyme related product (is this stuff going to work the same after it freezes?). And some more oxy boost stuff. The next thing on the wish list is an Oreck Orbiter. Every time I look into something it seems like my wallet gets used and abused. Thanks guys, seriously, thank you for putting up with me.

You're entertaining us real good. We'll make you an awesome carpet cleaner before you win your next foosball game

Keep up the good work

 

[steve_64]

You're entertaining us real good. We'll make you an awesome carpet cleaner before you win your next foosball game

Keep up the good work

Who's "we"?

 

[BIG WOOD]

Who's "we"?

You hurt my feelings

 

[Lee Stockwell]

Not kosher but works:
Pull the wand straight back 3' or so.
Pick it up and pitch it back next to the first pass, overlapping 2".

Repeat. No triangles.

 

[Rick J]

In my world, any guy named Rick has got to be cool. I'll going to order some encap stuff (VLM chemical I hope, and what would your juice of choice be. never mind, I'll just call Prochem again). I don't understand how the encap VLM surround the soil crystalize thingy is going to get rid of the wicking. I appreciate the advice with the towel and not over wetting, in a few spots. And nobody is trying to bend my buddies over, they're not that pretty. If you can shoot a shot left handed from your goalie, at least your not spinning. You don't sound old, but who am I kidding, I got one foot on a banana peel, and the other on 50 yrs. Oh, it's winter. Does freezing hurt chemicals?

Check with the Chemical mfgr. on the freeze thaw stability.
Vac a Way chems are good. They do I believe offer a free sample pack.
John at Bonnet Pro also has a sample pkg. You just pay shipping.
I think John also post a lot of videos . Not good a finding them though. Remember, I am older. Not into the techy stuff.!!

And no spinning allowed.!!

Just spinners!!lol!

 

[foosballnerd]

Hi guys. It's your infamously not so talented nerd again. On the fooz match, I barely broke even (might have even lost). I got stuck with my Dad's 4th wife's son, who couldn't play dead in a crappy B western. Had fun though. Chems haven't made it here yet. The 9504 and 9505 tips have yet to make it too. Nor the two 1000 watt bucket heaters. But the 8002 tip for the upholstery tool did, after I figured out the bracket that holds the tip was spraying the tool instead of fabric. I got 5 customers lined up, 2 said they were too embarrassed to let me see their carpet (one rented a Dr, the other I"ll get, and I'll get the Dr rental guy too). Got a van of a friend GF upholstery, and she's threating cash, at this rate I shall answer "yes please super size that meal deal." The next soon to be satisfied customer is a fella I work with, who wants me to stop by, give an estimate, but doesn't want his carpets cleaned till spring - "because nobody gets their carpets cleaned in winter, it won't dry," which I mentioned CL has some sweet deals going on, and try the VLM (I tried to explain it the best I could), it dries fast. The last is a friend of a friends again house, don't know much about that one. Already know what you guys are thinking, and NO IS THE ANSWER!!!! I will not offer stock potential , investment offers, or anything else to this obvious perfect business plan that I have set forth. But here is what I wont do: quit my job, stop trying to pick every inch of knowledge you guys have, hunt down those who rent extractor (bad carpet + want to save money + I stand a good chance being more idiotmencated than them = cleaner carpets and money), and I refuse to give up. Remember, I have always said I'm not that smart. In my defense though, I'm not an idiot. I had to google "Kosher," but I did understand the "pull the wand straight back 3 foot..." Oh, I almost forgot something, Merry Christmas.

 

[Lee Stockwell]

Carpets dry FASTER in winter. Much lower humidity.

 

[BIG WOOD]

Carpets dry FASTER in winter. Much lower humidity.

In other words, brag about your dry time in winter and keep it on the down low in summer

 

[foosballnerd]

Like a bad wicking spot, the fooz ball dummy shows up again. Got the chems, and slapped with sticker $$$ shock (once again that's my fault for being compulsive). And now I'm dealt a hand of more research: volatile, acrylic, enzymes types, encap, etc... Some of the stuff I have been doing homework on, in fact I've been doing a ton of homework. Were friends right? Before the hog dude snaps me like a twig under neither his pickled pigs feet (it's a joke gentlemen, please try not to, all of you, crush me at once...only a joke), you guys could have said "are you sure you want to...stop while you got the...foosball would probably be easier...you already got a job ya knucklehead, Ricky - think about this buddy... I tried the Procap Later (I'm being serious) thing on the berber in the basement on a spot, and the spot is gone (chemicals mixed correctly, dried 20 min, vac). The brush I used on the spot has never looked that clean before, and yes I thought it was pretty clean prior. Sorry about my bad jokes. The story is true. More homework (ouch again!).

 

[BIG WOOD]

Like a bad wicking spot, the fooz ball dummy shows up again. Got the chems, and slapped with sticker $$$ shock (once again that's my fault for being compulsive). And now I'm dealt a hand of more research: volatile, acrylic, enzymes types, encap, etc... Some of the stuff I have been doing homework on, in fact I've been doing a ton of homework. Were friends right? Before the hog dude snaps me like a twig under neither his pickled pigs feet (it's a joke gentlemen, please try not to, all of you, crush me at once...only a joke), you guys could have said "are you sure you want to...stop while you got the...foosball would probably be easier...you already got a job ya knucklehead, Ricky - think about this buddy... I tried the Procap Later (I'm being serious) thing on the berber in the basement on a spot, and the spot is gone (chemicals mixed correctly, dried 20 min, vac). The brush I used on the spot has never looked that clean before, and yes I thought it was pretty clean prior. Sorry about my bad jokes. The story is true. More homework (ouch again!).

I'd like to be a fly on the wall during one of your conversations to see if you talk to your friends this way, lol

 

[foosballnerd]

Alright, my jokes suck. I'm gonna try to keep the humor out of the post. Came here looking for info, and you guys gave it. I only joined 2 sites, one I paid dues to. The other forums that I dug into had some good info, in fact they all do, but I picked this one for a reason. My girlfriend's nephew just bought a porty too, his is better than mine!!! For $250. His no knowledge carpet cleaning knowledge makes me look gifted, which wouldn't be hard. He asked if I would go with him to look at it: if I drive 254 miles round trip, I'm gonna buy it, sorry kid, the kid is 30. I'm gonna buy him a membership somewhere in a forum , just because I can only field so much, and the kid has endlesssssssssssssssssss questions. Are you guys up for one more guy with a lot of questions? And if pissed some folks off with my sorry jokes, I am sorry.

 

[SamIam]

Not to sound rude but if your near anybody who cleans here ask to go on a ride along. Spend a couple days or more learning.

Probably no one in your city will take you but I'm sure you could drive to Minnesota or watch Saiger's video's.

I have 2 guys that work for me it took me years to get them rolling on there own with great equipment.

I have 3 other part timers only one who could be trusted to clean on his own while I do repairs.

While there's great opportunity go to a carpet cleaning certification class. Do a ride along.

You don't want to be the guy who ruins 4-8k worth of someone's property.

 

[Lee Stockwell]

Take THAT to the bank.

 

[Able 1]

You are welcome here..

 

[BIG WOOD]

Don't leave! Marty smells and Lee keeps wanting to take me in his basement for some reason

 

[SamIam]

I'm certainly not suggesting leaving the vast wealth of info here, just stressing the importance of hands on training.

 

[Rick J]

Like a bad wicking spot, the fooz ball dummy shows up again. Got the chems, and slapped with sticker $$$ shock (once again that's my fault for being compulsive). And now I'm dealt a hand of more research: volatile, acrylic, enzymes types, encap, etc... Some of the stuff I have been doing homework on, in fact I've been doing a ton of homework. Were friends right? Before the hog dude snaps me like a twig under neither his pickled pigs feet (it's a joke gentlemen, please try not to, all of you, crush me at once...only a joke), you guys could have said "are you sure you want to...stop while you got the...foosball would probably be easier...you already got a job ya knucklehead, Ricky - think about this buddy... I tried the Procap Later (I'm being serious) thing on the berber in the basement on a spot, and the spot is gone (chemicals mixed correctly, dried 20 min, vac). The brush I used on the spot has never looked that clean before, and yes I thought it was pretty clean prior. Sorry about my bad jokes. The story is true. More homework (ouch again!).

Never heard of Procap Later.

edit: just googled it and see it is Prochems version.
Just sprayed, brushed and left it huh? good test and glad it worked well that way.

when encapping I use some type of absorbant bonnets to extract the soil. Esp in a residential setting.

there are different schools of thought on this.

 

[Bob Pruitt]

kid has endlesssssssssssssssssss questions.

Good. Asking questions is half the answer and the other half is doing the work and continually making an effort to improve. I have been involved in this business for over 25 years and I ask questions all the time. Would be great if you guys could find time to make it to Mikey Fest. In 2 days you will know more than guys cleaning carpet for 2 years...asking questions and hands on. I'm going because I know I will learn plenty and knowing equals money in the bank.

 

[steve_64]

Carpets dry FASTER in winter. Much lower humidity.

In the home.

 

[Bob Savage]

I don't know what kind of machine you're using to power the suction, so I'm gonna tell you how to use your wand on the safest way.

Start at the furthest point away from the entrance:
-Push your wand forward without pulling the trigger (Dry pass)
-Pull the wand back to you while pulling the trigger at a slower speed (wet pass)
-Push the wand forward again in the same line to extract as much as you can (dry pass)
-Pull it back to you (dry pass), and reposition it halfway over to the right or left
-Repeat
-After about 10 of these passes, go back and do just dry passes over what you did

If you have a lot of suction, you can do a wet pass in the initial push and pull forward and backwards to flush out more soil. Just make sure you do dry passes after every wet pass

Matt-

Consider this:

If you are pushing your wand forward for the first pass, you can have the trigger on because that will also be a DRY PASS, as the vac slot is in front of the jets.

Then I come back (same path) with the trigger on again, and that is the second wet pass and the final dry pass, because the vac slot is the last thing to touch the carpet fibers.

Then I go left or right with a 40% overlap and repeat.

Testing this procedure with a clear vac tube shows any additional dry passes don't register any more moisture coming from the carpet, so no need to go back and dry pass all of the carpet that you just cleaned.

In moderate to heavy soiling, I pre-spray first and let dwell for a few.

This procedure really saves you time while still doing a thorough job, especially in large open areas such as commercial work.

If you run dual wands this is a most efficient way to clean because we all know time is money; -and, if you don't run dual wands and have a helper, you need to rethink not being more efficient!

 

[BIG WOOD]

Matt-

Consider this:

If you are pushing your wand forward for the first pass, you can have the trigger on because that will also be a DRY PASS, as the vac slot is in front of the jets.

Then I come back (same path) with the trigger on again, and that is the second wet pass and the final dry pass, because the vac slot is the last thing to touch the carpet fibers.

Then I go left or right with a 40% overlap and repeat.

Testing this procedure with a clear vac tube shows any additional dry passes don't register any more moisture coming from the carpet, so no need to go back and dry pass all of the carpet that you just cleaned.

In moderate to heavy soiling, I pre-spray first and let dwell for a few.

This procedure really saves you time while still doing a thorough job, especially in large open areas such as commercial work.

If you run dual wands this is a most efficient way to clean because we all know time is money; -and, if you don't run dual wands and have a helper, you need to rethink not being more efficient!

That's the same way I clean,

The only reason I explained that process, was because I don't know how much suction he's getting

Technically, that first push forward is a wet pass because the jets are the last thing that touches the carpet and if your machine has the same suction as a bissel, you don't want to do that pattern. That was the reason I explained that process

I know your dry times are awesome.

What other methods do you use to guarantee zero wicking and quick dry times? I know you've got some good secrets

 

[foosballnerd]

The new kid is: Tim-newbie. He's the new proud owner of a used porty. Tim is my GF's blood relation that she rather fond of. I kind of feel responsible for getting the kid into this industry, and in my defense, I was just practicing my sells pitch on CC, and he wanted to buy one. I can't change what happened about him buying the extractor, but I did sign him up to the board of my choice. Tim's not a bad kid. He knows nothing about CC. Thanks for any help you can throw at the kid.

 

[Cleanworks]

Not to put a damper on your enthusiasm but you and the new kid might want to go out and get jobs as carpet cleaners at one of your local carpet companies. The large guys are always looking for staff. That way, you can get your training paid for and when you screw something up, it's not you who has to pay. Not only will you learn something about cleaning carpets but they will teach you how to sell as well.

 

[Bob Savage]

That's the same way I clean,

The only reason I explained that process, was because I don't know how much suction he's getting

Technically, that first push forward is a wet pass because the jets are the last thing that touches the carpet and if your machine has the same suction as a Bissel, you don't want to do that pattern. That was the reason I explained that process

I know your dry times are awesome.

What other methods do you use to guarantee zero wicking and quick dry times? I know you've got some good secrets

It can be difficult to guarantee zero wicking because what causes it is usually invisible. The worst culprit is existing residue in the carpet due to incorrect cleaning, either on the homeowner's part, or an incorrect "professional" cleaning.

You can find these problems as you are cleaning, where you might encounter an area that isn't looking so stand-up after you do your vac stroke. If it's soap residue, the fibers will appear to be still lumped together. I grab my bottle of de-foamer and apply to area and re-clean. Usually this will fix it. If not, I do another application and rinse.

If I encounter a lot of existing residue, I will switch over the chemical feed jug to a rinsing agent/de-foamer to neutralize the carpet fibers, and proceed with cleaning.

As far as good dry times for the carpet, I have a very balanced vacuum system on both of my TM's. I have rarely had any dry time complaints in 31 years. If I do it was a dirty filter (I use 3 of them), and one can get plugged sometimes.

 

[vibra-vacster]

Hello Rick, i own a few of the V-10's and use them on a semi regular basis along with a VB-12 and a few others.
V-10's are good well built powerwands, chevron style vibrating brush cleans both side of fiber nicely, and clear acrylic tube in middle of wand is great for a quick visual of wether your still picking up water or not.
I use mine with a porty between 100 and 300psi and flow one at a 6 flow (2 9503's ) and the other at an 8 flow (2 9504's). Both of these flows seem to work quite well and i use the 8 flow with a lower psi and the 6 flow for a higher psi.
The orig R-40's the V-10's came with had either a 35psi Oberdorfer or a 50psi Flojet pump in them, so to make up for the rather weak psi they used 2 9506's (12 flow) to clean on the principle of high flow.

As far as wanding technique, being this is a powerwand with 2 rear wheels your technique is going to be a bit different for a conventional standard scrub type wand. With this type wand you cant really do a forward dry stroke.
I will tilt the wand slightly so it rolls and do a quicker wet forward pass, then do a wet pass pulling back and extracting as well, then another dry only pass pulling back slowly over the same area again.

Being im sure you got it as a used wand being they don't make them anymore, make sure the brush bar isn't worn down too much, if it is RD still caries the brush strips, replace it. I also took apart the Flojet brush motor and replaced the bearings, and replaced the brushes as well, lubed, runs a lot smoother and quieter now.
Also i replaced the cord to 35ft in length so i could use it with up to a 30ft hose run on my porty. I also did a few other mods.
Hope this helps!
Brian

 

[Cleanworks]

Hello Rick, i own a few of the V-10's and use them on a semi regular basis along with a VB-12 and a few others.
V-10's are good well built powerwands, chevron style vibrating brush cleans both side of fiber nicely, and clear acrylic tube in middle of wand is great for a quick visual of wether your still picking up water or not.
I use mine with a porty between 100 and 300psi and flow one at a 6 flow (2 9503's ) and the other at an 8 flow (2 9504's). Both of these flows seem to work quite well and i use the 8 flow with a lower psi and the 6 flow for a higher psi.
The orig R-40's the V-10's came with had either a 35psi Oberdorfer or a 50psi Flojet pump in them, so to make up for the rather weak psi they used 2 9506's (12 flow) to clean on the principle of high flow.

As far as wanding technique, being this is a powerwand with 2 rear wheels your technique is going to be a bit different for a conventional standard scrub type wand. With this type wand you cant really do a forward dry stroke.
I will tilt the wand slightly so it rolls and do a quicker wet forward pass, then do a wet pass pulling back and extracting as well, then another dry only pass pulling back slowly over the same area again.

Being im sure you got it as a used wand being they don't make them anymore, make sure the brush bar isn't worn down too much, if it is RD still caries the brush strips, replace it. I also took apart the Flojet brush motor and replaced the bearings, and replaced the brushes as well, lubed, runs a lot smoother and quieter now.
Also i replaced the cord to 35ft in length so i could use it with up to a 30ft hose run on my porty. I also did a few other mods.
Hope this helps!
Brian

If you like the RD machines, you can get a modern v-16 at vanmarequipment.com. They are now stainless steel instead of chrome plated. Will work with any portable or you can buy one of theirs cheap.

 

[vibra-vacster]

you like the RD machines, you can get a modern v-16 at vanmarequipment.com

Hello Ron, actually i have a brand new VB-16 but never use it, its too big (16 inch and 60lbs) for doing resi which is all i mainly do.
The V-10 (10 inch) and the VB-12 (12 inch) suit me much better. Both the V-10's and VB-12's i have are all stainless and built like a tank.
Only the very early model V-10's, RE-VB12's, VB-12's and VB-16's were the steel chrome plated models, soon after RD went all stainless on them.
RD actually made some nice equipment back in the days.
Brian