Another guy sapphire

SamIam

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sam miller
Bill Luke messaged me about his machine sitting at 280 the heat being stuck on. Everybody should be able to do what I'm doing in the video to check the diverter.

If it doesn't move it could be s ground wire like Doug Cox's machine or the bimba is stuck and needs attention.

Not a new temp relief valve or the other kit to keep the water box cooler. Those are great and help but they won't help if the diverter is stuck open or closed.
 

SamIam

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sam miller
My dealer never looked at the bimba 3 trips you guys Tom Meyer Jim Martin. Finally got me looking in the right direction.
 
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Bryan Thomson

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Great video post....Thanks!
SS recommends that you check the movement of the diverter monthly and lubricate the "area of the diverter shaft" the moves in and out....meaning that part of the shaft that goes into the diverter plate housing.....lubricate with " High temp / Copper color Anti Seize"
Turning the water pump switch "on & off" is the easiest way to check operations and get the lubricate into the bearing sleeve in the diverter housing.
 

Doug Cox

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If SS wanted the shaft lubricated, why didn't they lubricate it from the factory?
 
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Bryan Thomson

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The factory does apply the lubricant however because the shaft moves in and out of a "high temp" housing it "wears off" and thus needs to be checked as part of your normal preventative maintenance.
 
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Doug Cox

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They didn't lube mine. Just shiny metal.
Still looks new
 

Old Coastie

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Stephen
Is it just me needing to get back to church, or are you pervs just talking in code?
 
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Bryan Thomson

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It difinitely has wore off by now....get the high temp (copper color) anti seize and apply at least monthly
 
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SamIam

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sam miller
Talked to Mike early and his wasn't moving on his 370. What I failed to mention you have to seal the vacuum and have at least 7hg for the Bimba to move. It moves by vacuum, no lift, no movement.

Did you test yours Mike with the vacuumed sealed?
 
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Todd
I haven't had any problems with my 370. So far so good. It is a nice little machine. Thanks for posting Sam. I will know what to look for

None of the machines are perfect. Prochems are known to eat belts. They get to hot sitting close to the exhaust manifold IMO at least on the Blazer and Legend they do.
 
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Todd
I heard the Apex did too. But they fixed the problem.

My 405 has never had a problem.
I heard the Peak was burning up belts also but the changed it when they went to the GTX. I heard the Apex was tough on belts t00. Did they fix that ?
 
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Able 1

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I don't have problems with either my Peak or my Apex since I went to 2.5 vac hose 7 or 8 years ago.. Peak would eat the hell out of them!
 

SamIam

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sam miller
I talked to someone about the apex and it had to do with rpm's, I believe and a minor adjustment made all the difference.
 

BIG WOOD

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I don't have problems with either my Peak or my Apex since I went to 2.5 vac hose 7 or 8 years ago.. Peak would eat the hell out of them!
Is the 2.5" better than 2, 2" hoses coming from the truck mount? If so, its it enough to justify switching?
 
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Able 1

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Is the 2.5" better than 2, 2" hoses coming from the truck mount? If so, its it enough to justify switching?
No difference really.. Technically yes it can move more air, but you won't notice. I like just having one hose and no Y. I had problems with the Y collecting crap and killing my vac..

So now I'm using a long 2.5 90.
1465530545728.jpg
 
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rwcarpet

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Robert Hodge
I use the 2.5" on my Pro 1200 after 50 ' of 2" hose. It seems greater vacuum and debris pick up with the 2.5", but isn't causing enough "draw" on the vac system, thus a little less heat. The Pro depends on vacuum resistance to create more heat through the vac HX system. It does run so much easier with the 2.5". It's just breathing too easily.

And that's my opinion.
 

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