I bought some power burst, going there tomorrow at 2pm for the promotional cleaning. I got the hall way that leads out of the kitchen, about 50 sq ft. Does it matter what type of pump of sprayer? I got one from lowes. If yes then I can use my HF. I'll take some pics before and after. Sure hope it works. I would love to have this place. Oh yeah I'm going to rake it in.
ate at a japenesse steak house
- Thread starter Bucey
- Start date
ACE
Member
Lay that PB down hot and give it some time to work. Raking it in will not do anything. You might not need to pre-scrub, but, if it’s, old heavy build up and God forbid, olefin carpet you might indeed need to pre-scrub. If you want to knock it out of the park, rent a 175 and buy a red pad and cotton pad to pre-scrub / post pad. Run that 175 with one side of the red pad on your garage first if you have never run on before.
Duane Oxley
Moon Unit
meAt said:
So is CleanStreak.
Power Burst is one of the ones it's been up against and out performed.
You don't have to trust me on this... I'll back it up with a sample of CS if you want one for comparison's sake.
rstrick said:
Can you afford $30 bucks to rent a 175? If so, go to your local Sunbelt, you have one in your city. Check w/ Lowes or Home Depot if they have rent centers(not everyone has), and see if they rent them too. If you do go to Lowes, and get the red pads like Mike said, make sure you do a test first, because they usually sell bleeders, meaning the red pad has a tendency to bleed. The pads costs about $5 bucks a piece.
Do it right the first time.
Duane Oxley
Moon Unit
All you need is a #6 jet equivalency or larger, 200 degrees or more and CleanStreak.
I did the very same thing years ago when I was cleaning. It was an Italian restaurant that had a burgundy and gray pattern in it. It looked dingy. The manager told me that they were happy with the current guy, who used a portable and charged less than my quote.
I asked when the last time it had been cleaned was and he said "two weeks ago". I ate there regularly and struck up a conversation with him whenever I came in to eat. And I finally said one day, "Tell you what. Let him come in and clean and let me come in the very next day. I'll clean an area, just to show you the difference. No charge. If I'm right, it will be obvious. There's no risk to you either way."
I cleaned 1/2 of the rear dining room. When I was done, the pattern turned out to be red and silver- not burgundy and gray. I cleaned half on purpose. Where I stopped, it was very obvious- and embarrassing to the guy who'd been cleaning- as well as to the restaurant manager.
The other cleaner came in twice and tried to do what I did. He couldn't. And it was very obvious right where I stopped, even after he tried twice to make that line go away and blend the rest of the room back in.
I used CleanStreak. And that was an old formula. The current formula has been improved 3 or 4 times since then.
I did the very same thing years ago when I was cleaning. It was an Italian restaurant that had a burgundy and gray pattern in it. It looked dingy. The manager told me that they were happy with the current guy, who used a portable and charged less than my quote.
I asked when the last time it had been cleaned was and he said "two weeks ago". I ate there regularly and struck up a conversation with him whenever I came in to eat. And I finally said one day, "Tell you what. Let him come in and clean and let me come in the very next day. I'll clean an area, just to show you the difference. No charge. If I'm right, it will be obvious. There's no risk to you either way."
I cleaned 1/2 of the rear dining room. When I was done, the pattern turned out to be red and silver- not burgundy and gray. I cleaned half on purpose. Where I stopped, it was very obvious- and embarrassing to the guy who'd been cleaning- as well as to the restaurant manager.
The other cleaner came in twice and tried to do what I did. He couldn't. And it was very obvious right where I stopped, even after he tried twice to make that line go away and blend the rest of the room back in.
I used CleanStreak. And that was an old formula. The current formula has been improved 3 or 4 times since then.
Dolly Llama
Number 5
Duane Oxley said:
we don't do any restaurants , DooWayne.
but I put it to a side by side test in sec 8 rehab, if you're "sure" you want me to.
if you get me off PB, EVERYONE here will know about it
..............................................................................................................................
if you don't want to rent a rotary for a few hours, you can use a stiff bristled push broom .
be better than hands and knees scrub brush
HAMMER that 50ft with Powerburst.
Pump up will work fine, it will just be slower.
and you it's hard mix powders real strong in a hydroforce..so stick with the pump up.
If you "really" want this job, I'm going to explain how to do this...follow the instructions.
if the grease is "caked on" in layers, you "might" have to take it off in layers if you don't use a 90+ pound rotary with very aggressive red pad.
If you "really REALLY" want this job, go rent a rotary but ONLY "IF"...you know how to run one.
If you've never run one, now ain't the time to learn..cause a rotary with aggressive pad on "carpet" ain't for a novice .
if you're experienced with them stripping tile, give it whirl..BUT BE ADVISED, the rotary with pad on carpet will have LOTS more "grap"
here's the non rotary scrub method;
first thing, fill your sprayer with 1 gallon of "hot" water and "thoroughly" mix 3 generous scoops of Powerburst.
spray that whole gal on the 50ft section.
NOW bring in the TM hoses (start your TM to warm up the HX'ers if the water isn't already hot)
Once the TM is set up and ready to rock 'n roll, now scrub with your push broom if you want.
if not, start to "chop stroking" the wand.
Short fast, aggressive (bear down on the wand) keyed wand strokes.
Finish with a "slow" longer keyed back stroke .
then slow forward dry stroke...give 'em a couple/three slow dry strokes .
if any caked on grease remains, NUKE it again with Powerburst.
Give it a minimum of 5 minutes dwell time and scratch away with your push broom, then give it long S-L-O-W keyed back stroke and a couple/three slow dry strokes
Make SURE your dry strokes go a little past where your keyed wand strokes stopped and started
g'luck
Let us know what happens
..L.T.A.
Thanks every one for the advice. Mr. Icherio was extremly happy. I had a limited amount of time so I was only able to use the PB. three scoops of PB to one gallon. dew for about 10 to 15 min. brushed in with scrub brush. Extract goooooooo. I got the job! I told him it was going to take longer on the restorative first cleaning therfore the price would be a bit higher, and he under stood. He was paying 280 per month, with the other out fit. Im going to get the mesurements tomorrow and sub mit the bid. This was an awsome experience!
Now I need to learn how to use the 175, cause he wants me to clean next week. Suggestions Please? :mrgreen:
Now I need to learn how to use the 175, cause he wants me to clean next week. Suggestions Please? :mrgreen:
daniel@procarpet
Member
- Joined
- Sep 7, 2008
- Messages
- 3,797
Ryan good job. 6 oz per gallon in a pump up is just wasting chems. One scoop or 4 oz in a 2 gallon sprayer and hot water is all you need.
joe harper
Member
rstrick said:
Ryan...
If you can SLOW DANCE....you can run a 175....
Learn to balance the machine...Practice..LEVELING the unit...So it will spin in ONE area...!
NEVER try to "Manhandle " the unit ...YOU will lose...!!!
Lock the handle into your right HIP...& learn to balance it there....
If you NEED to go LEFT...Push the handle DOWN.."1 inch"..
If you NEED to go RIGHT...Lift the handle UP..1 inch..
KEEP her close to your body...&...Lead her with your body..giving DIRECTION..with your HANDS
If you PANIC...Simply...Release the TRIGGER... :wink:
And START over... :!:
It is just like LEARNING to use a manual TRANSMISSION..If you get in trouble..PUSH in the CLUTCH... :wink: ...ONCE you get the feel for it...You can run it with ONE hand... 8)
PS..If you get your arms..AWAY fro your body....YOU WILL LOSE...
A
amazingcleansc
Guest
rstrick said:
if you want to come to columbia to practice ive got some trashed apts you can practice on lol
Dolly Llama
Number 5
danielc said:
NOPE
6oz per gal GUARANTEED he'd kick that carpet's ass!!
That was the goal..to get the job
and on a trashed grease pit, NO juice will work effectively at 2oz pr gal
Good for you, Ryan .
as Harper said, once you get the balance right, a rotary is a piece of cake to run.
Start practice in a WIDE open area ..and as mentioned, DON'T fight it.
Balance it.
small movements up or down makes it swing left and right.
start with a pre-spray saturated synthetic bonnet.
It will have less "grab" than a VCT pad.
also less chance of "burn/scorching" the carpet ...which can and does happen if there's not enough lube (soap) on the carpet.
Once you get the hang of it, running a rotary is EASY work.
If you're sweating while running it, you ain't got it figured out, cause they can be run with one hand
..L.T.A.
I will rent one and after I use it I will try to buy it. Hopefully I can get a good price. Meat should I get the red pad? and Is one enough? Also Im going by there to tomorrow and check on the area I cleaned. What should I look for to know if I need to post bonnet? and regular cotton should do, and how many?
Is this the bonnet that would be safe and aggrisive enough for this application?
https://fanguybros.net/catalog/catalogproductdetail.aspx?itemno=020090
https://fanguybros.net/catalog/catalogproductdetail.aspx?itemno=020090
Red pads are usually $5 bucks a piece, you can purchase them from your local jani store, powerflite, jondon.
Look for wickbacks, circular spots.
If you're going to "post bonnet" get a pad that will remove soil well. The green stripped pads are decent to pre scrub, and so are the 100% cottons(more aggressive). I like Clark's new pads for post padding/bonneting, they are cheap($5 each), and will remove decent soilage. You can move up to John G's Glads pads, around $13-$15 a piece, or get a blue microfiber pad that Rick G sells, more $, but can be re-used at the job by rinsing in a mop bucket.
Get some tripple strength snake oil or release it ds while you're at it.
Look for wickbacks, circular spots.
If you're going to "post bonnet" get a pad that will remove soil well. The green stripped pads are decent to pre scrub, and so are the 100% cottons(more aggressive). I like Clark's new pads for post padding/bonneting, they are cheap($5 each), and will remove decent soilage. You can move up to John G's Glads pads, around $13-$15 a piece, or get a blue microfiber pad that Rick G sells, more $, but can be re-used at the job by rinsing in a mop bucket.
Get some tripple strength snake oil or release it ds while you're at it.
Nate The Great
Member
tmdry said:
Hey Bill, with all do respect. I've only read on the BB of people reusing pads on the job. I've always have had more then enough to do the job. I just can't wrap my head around reusing a dirty pad even after rinsing it out. :?
Dolly Llama
Number 5
rstrick said:
yep, that's a synthetic scrub bonnet.
they last for ever.
It's not near as aggressive as a red VCT, but is safer and that's what you'll need to scrub cut piles with.
red VCT pads are TOO aggressive for cut piles.
VCT pads work best on com (loop pile) ..scrub bonnets work well too on com though..just not as aggressive .
personally, I'd suggest you avoid a red pad altogether for right now.
It's too aggressive for a rookie, IMO.
Use a white or beige (hog's hair) pad til you get some experience under your belt..it will be safer for you.
and ALWAYS make sure there is plenty pre-spray on the carpet when roto scrubbing.
You can RUIN a carpet fast due to friction burn/scorch if it's not "slick" enough with pre-spray or if you linger too long with too aggressive pad.
VCT pads will last a good long time..thousands of sq ft
as far as taking a look at the carpet, if you see wicking (dark splotches in spots) then a post pad may help.
Otherwise, it's a waste of time and your money (time is your money) to post pad.
That's a bulletin board thing for the "wannabe like Mike" tag-a-alongs .
You ain't getting 60 cents a sq ft..
It's foolish to post pad a greasy restaurant anyway ...cause it's gonna look like chit in 4 to 6 weeks regardless.
get 'em on a monthly schedule and go make some dough
..L.T.A.
Nate,
I don't disagree with you either, but that is what the Blue Microfiber pads are made for. Rick G sells them, and yes you can re-use them, they do pick a lot of soil, than you re-wash them on site in the restaurant tank in the kitchen, than throw it on the floor again, etc.
I don't use them as I feel that they don't last that long after giving it a try some time ago. I mentioned that to him as he is on a budget. Good pads or "bonnets" adds up.
Larry,
He might as well just get some fiber plus pads to pre scrub, they're much better than just plain o' white pads.
I also agree it will look like shit after 4-6 weeks so post padding might be a waste too.
I don't disagree with you either, but that is what the Blue Microfiber pads are made for. Rick G sells them, and yes you can re-use them, they do pick a lot of soil, than you re-wash them on site in the restaurant tank in the kitchen, than throw it on the floor again, etc.
I don't use them as I feel that they don't last that long after giving it a try some time ago. I mentioned that to him as he is on a budget. Good pads or "bonnets" adds up.
Larry,
He might as well just get some fiber plus pads to pre scrub, they're much better than just plain o' white pads.
I also agree it will look like shit after 4-6 weeks so post padding might be a waste too.
Dolly Llama
Number 5
tmdry said:
you could be right, Bill.
I've never used them, only see 'em, so I'll take your word for it if you've used both and have personal experience with both
They look like white VCT pads to me.
What makes 'em different ?
(besides Rick selling them)
Thanks
..L.T.A.
meAt said:
The white pads i do use for hardwood floors if people just want a basic cleaning to remove any gunk, dirt, etc. Just won't do as good as the pads mentioned above.
The fiber plus pad is far more aggressive than the white pads, the whites are good for hard surface for lightly abrading the surface in my experience, they don't do that great of a job on a nasty resty. One thing to be mentioned too, is that I've used the fiber pluses w/ the cimex tank topped out, roughly 180 lbs or so and it didn't do much to that particular job. I had to move up to the Fiber Max pads.
Someone can probably give you a better comparison, I've only used the whites from powerflite, jondon, and the local Home Cheapo.
Nate The Great
Member
tmdry said:
Thanks for the explanation. I wouldn't be using a $20 pad on a restaurant... Looking like sh!t is an understatement. I do believe post padding does work well especially on an uneven floor.
Dolly Llama
Number 5
Nate The Great said:
You just touched on very good point , Nate the Great Lava Rock....
some subfloors are uneven.
post bonnet or cloth pad is important then.
To prevent wicking due to dips in floor making it difficult/impossible for the wand lips to recover solution
..L.T.A.
used the 175 last night, with white pad. was taking too much time and not getting any different results than just the wand. two things one maybe it was not the best pad for the situation, or it was just caked on so thick it did not matter. not sold on the 175 after first use. I understand there is a large learning curve and situation.
joe harper
Member
rstrick said:
Ryan...
A "white" pad is useless...You need to use at least a RED pad.... :wink:
We prefer a shampoo brush..."Much more AGGITATION...deeper into the PILE"..... :idea:
rstrick said:
Thats the learning curve I was talking about, so if I did use the red pad what type of response would I have seen with the heavy grease patches. would it have been like cutting through butter with my magic wand. That harper is what I'm after. working smarter not harder, witch is how my body feels at this point.
good thing I'm only 30 :mrgreen: The white pad was used in suggestion because I'm a 175 novice
Dolly Llama
Number 5
rstrick said:rstrick said:
Thats the learning curve I was talking about, so if I did use the red pad what type of response would I have seen with the heavy grease patches. would it have been like cutting through butter with my magic wand. That harper is what I'm after. working smarter not harder, witch is how my body feels at this point.
if you're felling froggy now, son, grab a red and let er rip... :wink:
The red will have substantially more "grab" .
it will also shear soil better
..L.T.A.
joe harper
Member
rstrick said:rstrick said:
Thats the learning curve I was talking about, so if I did use the red pad what type of response would I have seen with the heavy grease patches. would it have been like cutting through butter with my magic wand. That harper is what I'm after. working smarter not harder, witch is how my body feels at this point.
Ryan...
I wasn't trying to embarrass you... :!: I was just trying to get you to understand...that
someone gave you some BAD advice...on pad selection... :!: We use WHITE "polishing"
pads to clean "WOOD FLOORS"... :shock:
The purpose for the 175...is to BREAK-UP that grease into a SLURRY... :idea: Then it is easier
to EXTRACT... :wink: If you REALLY want to work SMARTER..... :!: Let someone else do
the POS..restaurant JobS....
joe harper
Member
rstrick said:
I am NOT your DuDe... :!: :!:
And I will STICK that DORK....button up your ASS...LosEr..
You are RIGHT WHERE YOU BELONG..stay in the jApAnEse resTaUrEnT cleaning BiZ..
Now ...I KnOw wHy... BoYlE...Show's NO mErCY to these IdioTs.... :roll:
wow that post was not sarcastic aor targeted at you in any way. just a simple response in honesty, I am learning, you guys are helping out alot, and I do appreciate your input and advice. Im not one of the smart azz that are found through out the board. sorry to offend you Harper.
