Do I need a new clutch for my cds?

[TimP]

Symptoms.

First it popped the safety switch above the key.

Reset it and it started right back up.

Then it blew the fuse.

Replaced fuse and it popped the safety and fuse.

Replace fuse and then it wont run at all. And fuse was melted some.

Wait for a bit and restart engine and it runs for a few minutes and pops the safety button.

Voltage is 13.8

Checked all wires to make sure insulation was secure on them and wasn't grounding out where I can get to the wires, doesn't pop fuse without being turned on.

Is this what happens when a clutch goes out?

 

[Chris A]

Mine did that. Breaker gets real sensetive when it gets hot. Sometimes ill run the machine with the panel open to get some air when it does it, hasnt for a while. Are you running an apo and if so is it cleaned out?

 

[TimP]

No APO. But it was running almost all day. It was pretty hot. Maybe when it cools it wont do it anymore?

This is the first time it's done this to me. I guess I need to run it with the hood open from now on.

 

[handdi]

i think this is another ad for butler
at least they have customer support when ya need them

 

[Chris A]

Yeah like I said mine did it for a while but it was usually when the doors were shut

 

[Jim Martin]

No APO. But it was running almost all day. It was pretty hot. Maybe when it cools it wont do it anymore?

This is the first time it's done this to me. I guess I need to run it with the hood open from now on.

go to auto zone and get a 12 volt radiator fan...mount the thing right behind the grill on the radiator...wire it to a switch on your dash and grab the power from a source that is ran off the key.....that way if you forget to turn it off it will automatically shut down when you turn the engine off....

when the temps get hot...just turn on the fan and get more air flow....in the winter just leave it off..

 

[The Great Oz]

The fact that breaker and fuse have gone more than once and the fuse has melted shows you have a power draw problem creating excess heat in the wiring. That needs attention. Breakers can get weak and blow too easily but not fuses. We used to work to keep temperatures down in the days of overheating computer components underhood but never worried about the clutch. (Isn't the breaker on the control panel anyway?)

Failing bearings, a damaged u-joint or a gummy blower could cause a load that would blow a fuse, and a failing bearing could get more sticky the hotter it gets. Almost always our clutch/fuse problems were traced to a shorted wire either where it touched the engine or the driveshaft. Or maybe you were right in the first place and the clutch IS bad.

I'd run the wires down first.

i think this is another ad for butler
at least they have customer support when ya need them

Did HydraMaster or a HM distributor refuse to give Tim service advice? I must have missed that.

 

[TimP]

Now since the van has cooled. I tried to see if it would run right.

Short answer is it's not running at all.

The computer that idles the machine up isn't coming on at all. It gets power directly from the computer port and it has power but it's not coming on when the key is turned on the machine.

I don't know what else can cause the problem cause the wiring is just fine it don't pop fuses when it doesn't run. Either that or the clutch is pulling too much juice.

After it would pop a fuse earlier today, when it was on the truck would idle up but not engage the clutch. When it cooled down it would run for a few minutes and cut off completely. I'm thinking the computer over heated that idles the engine up or just crapped out over time. Either that and there is a relay in the dash of the machine that operates the computer board when you turn the key and that's going bad.

I don't live close to a dealer and would have to drive 200 miles to a shop to get it looked at, and I probably will have to. Guess I'll have to make a call tomorrow to see, unless you guys have an idea.

 

[Jim Martin]

2 of the absolute must have items that you need to always carry on your truck is a jumper wire and a camera so you can show what your talking about.........

 

[The Great Oz]

Never had a problem with the computer so don't know if there's a workaround.

Technical Support at HydraMaster may save a trip to the distributor. 425.775.7275 or 800.426.1301 Press Option 4.
If they're not open on east coast time, call Frank Kuse at Jon-Don New England (800) 542-8090. He used to work for HydraMaster and will give you straighforward advice.

 

[dealtimeman]

Do you have an owners manual?

Is there a logical diagram?

 

[TimP]

Its getting looked at in the morning. If its the idle gain computer I can put it on myself. I'm going to have a tech look it over tomorrow to make sure its not something else. Cause I think the idle computer thing is in the neihborhood of $500.

 

[Danny Strickland]

you have a TM in a trailer for sale. do you have it running for something such as this???

 

[TimP]

you have a TM in a trailer for sale. do you have it running for something such as this???

No its not running. Its for sale cheap cause I don't want to fix it and I'm tired of looking at it in my yard. I'm not into my cleaning business as I used to be. It is part time to me now.

 

[TimP]

Its been diagnosed. Needs a new clutch and a switch got burned out because of a power drain from the clutch.

 

[dealtimeman]

Is the clutch readily available?

Part numbers?

 

[TimP]

I got it ordered overnight from hydramaster. It's not as costly as I would of thought but then again I'm no expert in auto part prices. The float safety switch that it burnt out cost near about as much as the clutch. I'm going to have a local mechanic put it on tomorrow because I can't stay out of town that long. My machine will be back at it next week though, and that's what matters.

 

[dealtimeman]

If you could put up some part number and descriptions so that if other have the same issues they will have some information to reference, thanks.

 

[Dale]

Hi Tim:

I know that it's a bit late, but here's how you can keep this from happening. Also in that you will be taking the clutch off, now is the time to check out the whole system. I rebuild Butlers in my spare time, and have rebuilt 2 HM direct drive units.
Most TM mechanics only look to repair AFTER a break down.

The clutch itself will virtually last forever, but not the center bearing (an about $20 item from NAPA). It simply is replaced with snap ring pliers. #1 Be sure that you are keeping your blower clean, so that it does not cause excessive drag. #2 If on a scheduled basis, say every 500 hrs you plan on changing drive belts. With the belt off, turn the shaft by hand and feel/listen for any bearing going bad, bearings on the back/front shaft and on the blower/pump. If there is any drag in the system it then puts more heat on the front clutch casuing it to slip, and or the bearing to go out. So while you’re already into it, make sure that there is nothing else that has caused this problem.

Sincerely,
Dale

 

[TimP]

Hi Tim:

I know that it's a bit late, but here's how you can keep this from happening. Also in that you will be taking the clutch off, now is the time to check out the whole system. I rebuild Butlers in my spare time, and have rebuilt 2 HM direct drive units.
Most TM mechanics only look to repair AFTER a break down.

The clutch itself will virtually last forever, but not the center bearing (an about $20 item from NAPA). It simply is replaced with snap ring pliers. #1 Be sure that you are keeping your blower clean, so that it does not cause excessive drag. #2 If on a scheduled basis, say every 500 hrs you plan on changing drive belts. With the belt off, turn the shaft by hand and feel/listen for any bearing going bad, bearings on the back/front shaft and on the blower/pump. If there is any drag in the system it then puts more heat on the front clutch casuing it to slip, and or the bearing to go out. So while you’re already into it, make sure that there is nothing else that has caused this problem.

Sincerely,
Dale

I appreciate the advice. The clutch going out was probably my fault. I think the relief valve was out of adjustment. When I was trying to figure out what was going on I got it to run briefly and the blower was pulling too much lift. So it was a matter of not checking it often enough. Last I did check it it was OK but obviously something changed it and it will be readjusted. I think everything else is OK cause everything spins fine by hand. The machine has around 2000 hours. I had a pretty good tech look at it so I'm pretty sure all is OK.