First oil change for TNT....

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Hey Cap'n - I'm curious - how do you tell how long it "lasts"? Does something in the oil make it obvious it's done?
Just like checking your auto oil....when it's dirty change it.
But the Amsoil was barely dirty at 175 hours ...I decided to go ahead and change it...
I bought a generac 33 hp from a lawn mower guy who says they are the best engines...
He has worked on those generac engines for mowers for years.....
He says it will increase the life of theses mower engines...some go 5000.... Hours
Also put in Amsoil and said it would last 200 hours......he was right......
We are talking maybe 10$ extra for 2 quarts...and it probably saves money with less oil changes.....
I buy it from an auto store ...the guy says he runs it 10k...changes the filter and runs it another 5 k miles on his auto
 
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dgardner

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Just like checking your auto oil....when it's dirty change it.
But the Amsoil was barely dirty at 175 hours ...I decided to go ahead and change it...
I bought a generac 33 hp from a lawn mower guy who says they are the best engines...
He has worked on those generac engines for mowers for years.....
He says it will increase the life of theses mower engines...some go 5000.... Hours
Also put in Amsoil and said it would last 200 hours......he was right......
We are talking maybe 10$ extra for 2 quarts...and it probably saves money with less oil changes.....
I buy it from an auto store ...the guy says he runs it 10k...changes the filter and runs it another 5 k miles on his auto

You know you can't just go by the color of the oil...... right? Some additives turn dark with use normally - doesn't mean the oil needs changing. The difference in color is most likely due to the particular additive being present in one oil and not the other. The engine pumps about the same amount of carbon into the crankcase no matter what oil is in there. Oil that turns black is doing it's job of keeping the contaminants (mostly carbon) suspended.

If the oil is black AND thickened - then definitely change it. The good news is your method probably results in your changing the oil sooner - no harm in that, except spending a little more on oil!
 
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dgardner

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Here's an excerpt from an article on oil myths:

4. Check the oil on the dipstick. If it's black, change the oil. Experts say this is a myth, as is the related notion that you can identify spent oil by smell. "That is old school," says Kristen Huff, vice president of Blackstone Laboratories in Fort Wayne, Indiana. "Oil is meant to get dark — it means it's doing its job," she says. As GM's Matt Snider says in this video, different additives change the oil's color. The bottom line: Black oil still has plenty of life left in it.


(Definitely watch the video)
 
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dgardner

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And which oil grade is better - 5W-30, 10W-40, or 20W-50? Is syn better? Why? If you're really interested in oil (or just can't sleep) check out BobIsTheOilGuy.com - but be prepared for lots of reading. His Motor Oil University (there's 10 chapters!) will convince you that thin - is in!!! Check it out:

http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/motor-oil-101/

I thought I knew a lot about oil - but not as much as I thought it turns out.....

Of course, air-cooled engines are a little different, as the oil temps can be higher, and not as well regulated as a liquid-cooled engine. But his point is well made that the cold viscosity is hugely important, as most of engine wear happens when oil is cold....
 
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Mike Draper

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I bought a new 2014 honda civic. It takes 0-20 weight oil. I thought it was an error. But technology is changing
 
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Larry Cobb

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And which oil grade is better - 5W-30, 10W-40, or 20W-50? Is syn better? Why? If you're really interested in oil (or just can't sleep) check out BobIsTheOilGuy.com - but be prepared for lots of reading. His Motor Oil University (there's 10 chapters!) will convince you that thin - is in!!! Check it out:

I thought I knew a lot about oil - but not as much as I thought it turns out.....

Of course, air-cooled engines are a little different, as the oil temps can be higher, and not as well regulated as a liquid-cooled engine. But his point is well made that the cold viscosity is hugely important, as most of engine wear happens when oil is cold....

Dan;

We tear apart quite a few engines in our service department.

Most of the damage we see is from metal-to-metal contact in engines that are fairly well maintained.

Kohler changed to 20W50 from 10W30 . . because the oil temperature was too high (as in most TM applications) . . .

in an advanced engine (34-40HP) that HAS an oil cooler right in the airstream from the flywheel.

Run whatever oil you think will work in your application . . .

Larry
 

Larry Cobb

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Dan;

Last year the recommendation for the 34HP engine from the multi-million R & D department was 10W30 for any temperature.

This year the 10W30 oil is only rated to 50' F.

POOR R & D.

Larry
 
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This is my reasoning about oil...
As much as we spend 4$ extra per qrt is the last thingiwant to cut...
If oil changes last twice as long then your really not spending any extra $$ anyway......
Also these oil companies are not foolish and wouldn't spend extra $$ for more refining of the synthetic oil if it didn't work better...
Also these racing car drivers and there mechanics make more $$ in one race than I will make in 20 years of carpet cleaning....
They recommend it and they are the professionals....
So if they use it, toyota BMW and honda new cars use it for there warranties...then it must be better.....
 

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