Frustrating

Trip Moses

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Trip Moses
How are those things plumbed. If there is a splitter then open both bleeders. But maybe one is a spitter and one is a swallower. In that case only bleed the spitter.
 
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Cleanworks

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TCS told me it was ok to open both
I finally gave up.
I’ll try again tomorrow
I've never bled those types of exchangers Marty but it seems pretty straight forward. Run your system, open one at a time and listen for air escaping. When you can no longer hear the air, close it up again and do the other. May need to do several times. Check to see if you are attaining optimal heat.
 

Cleanworks

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I’m under the impression, by what TCS and Jimmy told me, I need to open them until antifreeze starts coming out
Yes, the air should stop at about the same time as the antifreeze starts coming out. You don't need to see a lot of antifreeze coming out. Once it starts, that's the end of the air. Tighten it back down. Do both, then repeat one at a time.
 
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I replaced the radiator on my WM this week too. Same bleeder valve (radiator drain petcock). I will extend it and add an elbow to make it more accessible in the future.
 

Papa John

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Hours to bleed the HE!?? mine bleed in seconds.. :headscratch: but it does take longer in I fail to remove the radiator cap.
 

jcooper

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I’m under the impression, by what TCS and Jimmy told me, I need to open them until antifreeze starts coming out

What happened to the radiator? Why is it getting replaced on a truck/tm a couple(or whatever) of years old?
 

Mark Saiger

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This might be a challenge for you ...but....

On the Butler We find it faster to bleed them by taking the top Radiator hose off on the drivers side and pour the antifreeze in that hose to help fill up back to the heat exchangers....

Or....go to a service place and just have them pressurize the system to get the air out. Much faster and will probably cost you hardly anything.

But otherwise....you will keep bleeding...and bleeding for quite sometime with them.....been there.....
 

Dolly Llama

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as I left out this morning I was thinking..

Engine wasn't hot enough for thermostat to open to circulate thru system
but after running and hour and half, it would have to be hot enough

Then thought....your water pump impellers corroded from the wrong anti-freeze :eekk:.....and it's not a radiator problem

then I thought ....I'd stick the vac hose over the open petcock
....before I'd stare at them FOR AN HOUR AND HALF to see nothing

..L.T.A.
 

Mark Saiger

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I mentioned this in a converstion but just in case others might see or seek out this info.

I found that each morning before starting the van I would remove the radiator cap and most likely need to add fluid...

Then.... I would start the van and see with circulation a little bit I could add more.

On the Lil Butler I got and replaced a heat exchanger it took me about 3 days before I felt I got it under control
 

steve_64

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as I left out this morning I was thinking..

Engine wasn't hot enough for thermostat to open to circulate thru system
but after running and hour and half, it would have to be hot enough

Then thought....your water pump impellers corroded from the wrong anti-freeze :eekk:.....and it's not a radiator problem

then I thought ....I'd stick the vac hose over the open petcock
....before I'd stare at them FOR AN HOUR AND HALF to see nothing

..L.T.A.
I keep feeling like my issue is the water pump. I think I have the system bled but no heat in the van still.

Found a leaky nipple too.
 
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I keep feeling like my issue is the water pump. I think I have the system bled but no heat in the van still.

Found a leaky nipple too.
I had to add a little antifreeze to mine tonight also. Replaced radiator Friday.

If you have no heat in the hvac you DEFINATELY have an air pocket. Not knowing what may have been done to your van since it was built, I'd loosen a heater hose (not hot) until water comes out to make sure it's purged of air.

This time of year you don't need to drive without defrost, nor do you need to burn up your engine from inadequate cooling.
 

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