God's Rug.

Mikey P

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I showed you a hint of this a few weeks ago. Upon seeing it in person and doing some color billed test, which it failed within seconds (red)

I see no other way than a thorough back and front Sanitair'ing and VLM with our 20" brush Pro and Compound agent from Carpet Cleaner America.

100 plus years old and no one alive knows if ti's ever been cleaned before 70 plus feet long so no local shop can handle it.
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What will you charge to clean a rug like this? The reason I'm asking, there is a local music school that has approx. 9-10 large( 12/16) wool area rugs they want cleaned. They don't want them taken off site. I really don't want to remove them either( due to logistics of size, access). They haven't been cleaned, other than vacuum, in over 25 years, if ever, judging by the condition.
Jeff @SCC
 
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Papa John

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apply CTI last step to test area and see if dye transfer happens if you still want to try CWE (cold water extraction).
 

Cleanworks

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What did you test with for colorfastness? Make sure you test with your vlm compound. I have cleaned similar rugs cold water extraction. I wouldn't want you to do what I would do, that's a sure way to get into trouble but I would spray treat it first with a detergent free acid. (browning treatment or similar) then use cold water extraction with a good quality wool extraction detergent. You could sour that a little to bring the ph down to maybe 6. Any parts that were heavily soiled, could be shampooed with a 175 with solution tank using something like Prochem fine fabric shampoo. You could also sour this a little to prevent bleeding.
 

Mikey P

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blotted with Chemspec One Earth 210 and Procyon and a white towel placed on top.

Cold water.

if those two cause the red to run that's all I need to know.

Compound and spot clean the obvious by hand
 
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Papa John

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blotted with Chemspec One Earth 210 and Procyon and a white towel placed on top.

Cold water.

if those two cause the red to run that's all I need to know.
Of course you are going to get color bleed/transfer with those chems... Ph is too high.

One of CTI's last step active ingredients is Isopropyl alcohol. its on the acid side and will aid in locking in the colors. it also cleans well too.

But be safe and do it your way.
 

Cleanworks

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Of course you are going to get color bleed/transfer with those chems... Ph is too high.

One of CTI's last step active ingredients is Isopropyl alcohol. its on the acid side and will aid in locking in the colors. it also cleans well too.

But be safe and do it your way.
I agree 100 percent. Procyon, while it may be woolsafe approved, the ph will cause the dye to move. We usually sour our products to be under 7, for serious bleeders, between 5-6
 

Larry Cobb

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No interest in being the hero here.

Ive seen the miracles Compound cleaning can do in the eyes of the innocent.
What makes you think you can get all the powder cleaner back out ?

For removal, I would use a Certified Pile brush hooked up to that 370 TM.
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For modern extraction cleaning . . . .

I would use ReduceAll and ColorSorb Dye Transfer Inhibitor + neutral detergent . . .

with an experienced "Rug Cleaner" on-site .
 
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Cleanworks

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What makes you think you can get all the powder cleaner back out ?

For removal, I would use a Certified Pile brush hooked up to that 370 TM.
-------------------------------
---------------------------------
For modern extraction cleaning . . . .

I would use ReduceAll and ColorSorb Dye Transfer Inhibitor + neutral detergent . . .

with an experienced "Rug Cleaner" on-site .
That's the problem, he doesn't have an experienced rug cleaner on site.
 

Larry Cobb

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Talked to my son more about it today
Yellows bled too.

Black was stable but the others bled alomst on contact.

Compound is king!
No plant cleaners use compound that I know of.

Real cleaners use water . . .

and deal with bleeders.

If you can't stand the heat,

get out of the kitchen . . .
 
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