God's Rug.

[Mikey P]

But will the dye migrate..

FPA does the trick with very little product.

 

[ruff]

Good question.
Not doubting FPA, though if you're concerned about migration it will be worth testing.

If just a little product does it, it does make me wonder how well it will perform, as wool has many dye sites and any spill given enough time will get in. Will just a little product be enough to protect all dye sites? But that is another issue for another thread.

 

[Mikey P]

FPA migrates like a mofo. The solids are very noticeable when sprayed on glass, unlike that Texan product.

 

[cleanking]

It'll do fine Mikey, don't let these fear mongerers get you down.

 

[Desk Jockey]

Heavy Artillery full strength rinsed with all fiber rinse.
You only live once...be daring! lol




J/K

 

[Mikey P]

It'll do fine Mikey, don't let these fear mongerers get you down.

If I reuse the compound can I add Di Clohr to ease my conscience?

 

[Desk Jockey]

 

[Cleanworks]

Heavy Artillery full strength rinsed with all fiber rinse.
You only live once...be daring! lol




J/K

Richard said, if it doesn't work, he'll pay replacement cost.

 

[Larry Cobb]

FPA migrates like a mofo. The solids are very noticeable when sprayed on glass, unlike that Texan product.

Fluorochemical solids from a solvent-based product should not be apparent . . .

on transparent glass or black marble ideally.

I'm glad you verified our Ultraseal transparency.

 

[Desk Jockey]

Richard said, if it doesn't work, he'll pay replacement cost.

 

[Rick J]

View attachment 18978 View attachment 18979 View attachment 18980 View attachment 18981 View attachment 18982

At least it is in the right location.

You can say your prayers and go for it!!

 

[Tom Forsythe]

It appears to be an old Turkish Ushak. The church staff need to be shown its bleeding propensity. This confirms to them that the bleeding is an issue with the rug and not the cleaner. I am conservative in any approach that I recommend. I believe in primarily protecting the aesthetic integrity of the rug and secondarily getting it as clean as possible. The safest way to do this is to use the Brush Pro powder with an encapsulate. A Brush Pro with wool brushes is essential to efficiently remove the bulk of the powder and limit any damage from agitation. I would have a Studebaker type of fan and use it to dry it quickly. Test this procedure in a small inconspicuous area. When it is dry then bleeding stops. Our Maxim Advanced for Upholstery with Dye Loc was made for this type of rug. You still need to pre-test in an inconspicuous area.


A carpet cleaner needs to have many tools to accomplish their work appropriately. I am not a one method man for oriental rugs. Encapsulation with powder is a method that gets the rug cleaner, extraction improves that cleaning, and the pit wash is the best. Remember that more water creates more issues that you need to be prepared to resolve on the spot. Rug washing demands experience and some of you get to only clean 5 to 10 rugs a month. Do the methods that you are comfortable with and do not allow your self to be persuaded to go out of your comfort zone. Punting is a good play in football and so it is in oriental rug washing. If you do not feel comfortable then do not do it but get more education so that the next time you may know how to handle it.

 

[Mikey P]

Tom are you suggesting a light pre spray of an encapsulation shampoo be misted prior to the Compound ?

Would you scrub that in or just let it dwell?

 

[Tom Forsythe]

If the rug can handle the agitation of a Brush Pro with a wool brush, then I would mist the prespray and add the powder almost simultaneously. I would agitate without using the pickup trays, then follow up with the pick up trays. I would do sections of 50 to 100 sq. ft. at a time. The powder will absorb some of the liquid (possibly the dyes) and soil. I would dry quickly. One thing that you need to pre-test if you decide to use the Maxim Advanced for Upholstery with Dye Loc is not only dye bleed but also any incompatibility between the anionic polymer and the cationic ingredient in Dye Loc. Reverse saponification is not easy to remove but generally only occurs when you mix one liquid with another liquid.

 

[Mikey P]

I'm a Fiber Protector applicator so my preference would be to use their alcohol based product for quick drying.
As a back up in case the alcohol causes issues, I'l like to bring your product along. How much and what's the coverage?

 

[Tom Forsythe]

It is ready to use. I would apply it the same as a RTU gallon of your product.

 

[Ron K]

It appears to be an old Turkish Ushak.

How old do you think it is?

 

[Papa John]

It Saddens me that your desire to apply FPA after only VLMing it will forever lock in any remaining soil.
As a Rug "fag"-- I weep at your lack of mercy.

May God have pity on your soul.

 

[Mikey P]

"Lock in soil.."

Sounds like something a first time customer would say.


Protectors are not Shellac.

 

[TConway]

Just bang it out and Yell IT IS IN GODS HANDS NOW!!! jkjk

 

[Nate The Great]

Just bang it out and Yell IT IS IN GODS HANDS NOW!!! jkjk

Your going to hell for that one Tommy........

 

[Tom Forsythe]

I have seen a few Ushaks in my time and that was my first impression and not a studied one. I always had an issue with age. I learned rugs in the rug trade where age seemed to vary widely from one person to another. The rug industry did not share knowledge like this industry. I always felt that I never could trust another rug dealers opinion as they were using their knowledge as power so that they could buy rugs cheap.

 

[Mikey P]

@Tom Forsythe concerning the question by Pap John above, will a Compound Cleaning method remove enough soil to allow a fabric protector to attach and do it's job?


and how do you personally explain that age old question of "Wont ScotchGuard lock in the soil?"

 

[Tom Forsythe]

Hopefully you have already planned on vacuuming them to death front and back before you encapsulate and dry powder. The encapsulated cleaning will clean the surface where the protector is to be applied. Encapsulation does surface cleaning while extraction cleans to the backing of the carpet if done properly.

Protectors need to reapplied because friction and cleaning removes some of the fluorochemical over time. Protectors are not plastic which would seal in the soil.

 

[Mikey P]

Kirbys, Royals and Sanitaires will be a whacking!

 

[Papa John]

Is FPA a fluorochemical?
When Tom put that rug in the wash tub that had FPA on it, the rug took 5 minutes to get wet. That is why I think there must be some sort of sealing going on. It just seems plausible that it would seal in soil.

 

[Mikey P]

Yes it is..

 

[Larry Cobb]

Mikey;

You have not addressed the "repairs" badly needed on this rug .

 

[Mikey P]

Our building partner who is a rug washer in the purest sense of the words, will be doing the repairs onsite.

He worked for Robert Mann for a while and even he said no way to washing these peices, even if they would let them leave the premises

 

[Tom Forsythe]

Beware, if someone who has a lot of rug knowledge has seen them firsthand, then his on site opinion is more important any opinion gained from looking at pictures. In any event, test, test, test. In my opinion, half of the job is removing dry soil and if you stop there you have significantly reduced foundation wear. Sometimes, I do my pre-testing for bleeders on the back of the rug.