Got a problem and need some advice please..

Wandslinger

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Tom Meyer
I cleaned a vacant house that had a serious dog smell, not urine, but just plain old dog smell. I vacuumed like crazy (that means 30 percent of a Ron Werner job), pretreated with either JJ of Cobbs stuff (can't remember) and rinsed using JJ rinse. Three days later it still smelled. I applied Quatalot in a sprayer and it still stinks. I'm kind of stumped because I thought a good flushing would get rid of it. Got some DD12 orange today and trying to figure out the best path on eliminating the funk. Suggestions would be appreciated.
 

Bob Foster

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The bigger hammer of the two is QuatALot compared to DD12.

I would give it a real good soaking of QuatALot and let it sit for at a minimum of 20 minutes. Soak the whole place at the same time. If you got something to agitate that in like a host or a GLS I would do the whole house with the quat down before prespraying. Then prespray sightly (since you have already cleaned) with mild solution of JJ and extract using an ounce of DD12 added to about 50 gallons of your rinse water.

If that won't do it I will be very surprised.
 

Jack May

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A couple of suggestions... is it still wet? (possible if you were trying for a deep thorough flush that not all was recovered.)

You could try an air mover and ventilating the property for a few hours, this may help, if nothing else, for the air exchange.

Secondly, I've had good response in some situations with a topical treatment of Odorcide 210.

Comes from your side so someone should be able to point you in the right direction.

John
 
G

Guest

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Your problem is probably that wet dog smell :?: Alot of that has to do with the oils and it is a tough thing.I would mix up a batch of oxidizer (osr) with a batch of citus solvent,saturate the carpet well,let it sit awhile,extract with an emulsifier,then add your odorcide,dd12,or what ever your poison.
 

RosscoPico

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Is the odour coming from the carpet? Often dogs will lie up against furniture/walls/curtaining. After checking and eliminating any of those as a source I would use a VapourShark.

roro
 

steve frasier

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You sure its just the carpet ?

that would be my first question

if she has heat/ac ducts the smell is probably in there as welll as the walls, etc

best/easiest thing you could do is open up everything on a daily basis and let it air out
 

joe harper

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Tom,
If it was a German Shepard or a long haired dog.......You may be fighting a loosing
battle. When these animals are kept indoors over long periods of time....They develop
a skin disease that resembles mange.

The odor that permeates from the yarn....is the bacteria from the sheading of dead skin.
This bacteria can only removed with a very high alkaline pre-spray & lots of aggitation...
Followed by a High Heat & High Flow rinse. Then force-dry.Then apply Hydracide.....

This odor will attach itself to everthing...Hard surfaces should be treated as if it were
a fire damage....Remove filter from HVAC...Then fog or spray duct work with a disinfectant.

Prochem Wide Range cleaner works very well on this problem..(contains TSP.)

ps This odor is as difficult to remove as cat urine... Until the "sticky"UREA is removed from
the cat urine.. you cannot treat the odor...
 
G

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Enzi Brite or Sani-512 by MPC; Sani-512 makes New Orleans sewers smell clean!!
 
R

R W

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Is it possible that the padding is also saturated? If that's the problem, you ain't going to get it out with out treating the padding, or changing it out. Even if you get the odor down, the humidity will bring it back out.

Soaking out with Chemiesters Proliminator will do wonders.
 

Walt

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First check it with your moisture meter. It can feel as dry as a bone on top and still be damp.
 

Jimmy L

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I had one like that and heres what I did.

I went back and bonnet cleaned it with vacaways "Green" encap that has a odor killer in it and then did a post spray of quat from judsons.

Then as a final attack I fogged a solvent deo thru the whole place.

That did it.


The person said the dog had the same skin disease.


When I di the intial cleaning I used PC's Powerburst which is a hi ph enzyme prespray followed by a emulsifier rinse. I figured I didn't want to wet it out again so hence the bonnet "Dry" method.
 

joe harper

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Bob,

I doubt it is a wool....But you are right...The wet wool will give off the same odor..only
if it is the skin disease it is 10 times worse :!: .

It would help if Tom could give more info on condition of carpet,fiber,urine,ect.......
However he may not have info on species of the dog....

I haven't considered post-padding with a odor eliminator...."GOOD IDEA"
 

Jimmy L

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Lite application of quat in a rental.......................
 

BUSY BEE

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Ron Lippold said:
Yeah, I agree. Set up an airmover blowing under the carpet with on ozone blowing into the airmover intake. Then go with the cleaning/ deodorizing.
 

joe harper

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WITCHCRAFT :roll: :roll: :roll:

I have tried OZONE in this situation before with mixed results.......
Setting the ozone machine in front of the intake of the HVAC will help
in the duct-work...

The first time the humidity changes in the room...(odor reappears) :oops:

LAST RESORT: Take you favorite high PH pre-spray then add:
1 cup household ammonia
1 cup sodium percarbanite
aggitate with 175 (shampoo brush)
15 min dwell time (min.)
High heat & high-flow flush (isopropyl alcohal /@3GPH)
Force dry or Post pad...Apply odor elimanator of choice.

ps The carpet is usually FUBAR...And worth the cost or effort to salvage :!: :!:
 

Larry Cobb

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Tom;

It would help to know "which product" you used initially.

We have two products that are used in that application.

1. Odor Attack - white powder (oxidizer + compatible enzyme)

2. Dynacide - liquid odor-counteractant

Do you have either of these ?

Larry
 
G

Guest

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Tom,
Remember not all "money is good money" :lol:

Its ok to turn down some jobs!!
 

BUSY BEE

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HARPER said:
WITCHCRAFT :roll: :roll: :roll:

I have tried OZONE in this situation before with mixed results.......
Setting the ozone machine in front of the intake of the HVAC will help
in the duct-work...

The first time the humidity changes in the room...(odor reappears) :oops:

LAST RESORT: Take you favorite high PH pre-spray then add:
1 cup household ammonia
1 cup sodium percarbanite
aggitate with 175 (shampoo brush)
15 min dwell time (min.)
High heat & high-flow flush (isopropyl alcohal /@3GPH)
Force dry or Post pad...Apply odor elimanator of choice.

ps The carpet is usually FUBAR...And worth the cost or effort to salvage :!: :!:
What was your success/failure rate with ozoning/clean/deodorizing? Maybe because I live in a different area with low humidity it works for me.
 

joe harper

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Bill,
The only good results that we have attained with OZONE are in air tight situations....

Freezer's that have lost power...(Rotting Food)....
Plastic & fiber board air ducts...(Nicotine)....
Fiberglass insulations in attic's...(Rat infestion)...

The ozone in very high consentrations can be effective to permeate these products...

However these high concentrations have multiple side-effects on humans & pets....
We actually killed the baby rats in the attic...(possibly from oxygen depletion)......
Humans will get dry eyes, headaches, shortness of breath....
Never use ozone in homes with babys* toddlers*asthma patients*or COPD........

INMHO..Ozone is not effective in permanant odor removal in any textile product :!: :!:
You must remove the source....the odor comes from the bacteria..(quats are most effective)
Although humidity is a variable.....the contamanation is the constant..(must be removed.)


ps You would NEVER leave the rotting meat in the freezer....& try to deodorize :wink: :wink:
 

BUSY BEE

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HARPER said:
Bill,
The only good results that we have attained with OZONE are in air tight situations....

Freezer's that have lost power...(Rotting Food)....
Plastic & fiber board air ducts...(Nicotine)....
Fiberglass insulations in attic's...(Rat infestion)...

The ozone in very high consentrations can be effective to permeate these products...

However these high concentrations have multiple side-effects on humans & pets....
We actually killed the baby rats in the attic...(possibly from oxygen depletion)......
Humans will get dry eyes, headaches, shortness of breath....
Never use ozone in homes with babys* toddlers*asthma patients*or COPD........

INMHO..Ozone is not effective in permanant odor removal in any textile product :!: :!:
You must remove the source....the odor comes from the bacteria..(quats are most effective)
Although humidity is a variable.....the contamanation is the constant..(must be removed.)


ps You would NEVER leave the rotting meat in the freezer....& try to deodorize :wink: :wink:
Hi Joe,
I only do this in vacant apts and rental homes. Are you refering to occupied homes when you mention children, babies, asthmatics, etc? I ozone first, air out for over 20 minutes, soak down the bad areas with OSR, extract/clean, then deodorize. It's been working for over 5 years without any problems, sure some require replacement, but it's worked for me this way.
 

joe harper

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Hi Bill,

I am glad you are having good sucess......

My post is talking about dealing with the bad dog odor (skin disease)
The ozone is effective in killing the odor molecules that are airborn..

Many people have a bad reaction to ozone in high volumes...
In emptys there is need for concern....20 min. & the 03 molecule has dispersed..

We only use ozone at extremely high consentrations....Dead bodys ect.....
This process uses complete containment, like asbestos removal.....
Kind of like Shocking a pool..... you need to wait before you go in...

ps You will get a better result if the ozone is used after the cleaning :idea: :idea:
 

BUSY BEE

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HARPER said:
Hi Bill,

I am glad you are having good sucess......

My post is talking about dealing with the bad dog odor (skin disease)
The ozone is effective in killing the odor molecules that are airborn..

Many people have a bad reaction to ozone in high volumes...
In emptys there is need for concern....20 min. & the 03 molecule has dispersed..

We only use ozone at extremely high consentrations....Dead bodys ect.....
This process uses complete containment, like asbestos removal.....
Kind of like Shocking a pool..... you need to wait before you go in...

ps You will get a better result if the ozone is used after the cleaning :idea: :idea:
I would love to do it after the clean, but with apartments, they usually want the job done 2 days after they called it in. As you know, it's not good to run ozone in a damp climate. Have a good one, Bill
 

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