Hot water bypass dumping into waste tank

Benchmark

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I’m tired of my truckmount dumping hot water over a certain temperature into the waste tank and depleting my fresh water tank supply. I understand the machine is doing what it’s designed to do, and that there can be a number of reasons the water heats up and needs to be dumped.
My question is, has anyone (surely someone has) plumbed the hot water dump line back to their cold freshwater tank? I’m sure that over time, the freshwater tank may get too warm, which is problematic for plastic tanks, and also means the truckmount will create hot water faster and start to dump even more hot water. Aside from those problems, are there other issues I’m not aware of?
 
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I’m tired of my truckmount dumping hot water over a certain temperature into the waste tank and depleting my fresh water tank supply. I understand the machine is doing what it’s designed to do, and that there can be a number of reasons the water heats up and needs to be dumped.
My question is, has anyone (surely someone has) plumbed the hot water dump line back to their cold freshwater tank? I’m sure that over time, the freshwater tank may get too warm, which is problematic for plastic tanks, and also means the truckmount will create hot water faster and start to dump even more hot water. Aside from those problems, are there other issues I’m not aware of?
Yep that's what I would do, and if you're really worried about it getting to hot put a 170 degree thermo relief on the water tank and send it to the waste tank and I bet you'll be wasting way less water that way!
 
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Hack Attack

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@Benchmark If you said what machine you had you would possibly get someone chiming in with experience with your machine

does your flow rate need to be adjusted? ie higher pressure or larger nozzles on your wand?
 

sassyotto

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I had a Prochem Apex that did that. There are three heat exchangers on it. I removed the primary heat exchanger which heated the water in the water box. That did two things.

1. All the primary water circulating in the water box/water pump was cool prolonging the life of the water pump
2. It stopped dumping water to the waste tank.

So when I got a new Hydramaster Titan 575 it worked great but it was using too much water after awhile. ( I had a Water Pond on both setups so I knew how much water I should be using) Turns out that the thermal valve was stuck open, so I capped it until I got a new one (warranty part)

So it really comes down to which make/model you have to how to solve it.

whatever you do, dont plumb the water back into your fresh water tank. solve the problem, dont make another
 
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Benchmark

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Prochem 650. Just standard issues - customer decides to chat with you for 5 minutes, working on a pesky stain that takes longer than you may have hoped, upholstery cleaning without much flow, a longer than necessary phone call. Straight up cleaning with a wand or rotary, no issues.
 
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Does That water that recycles into the waste tank have product in it......even so
..
Very redundant!
I would think it doesn't, also how long would it take 170 degree water at a flow of maybe 1 gallon or even less a min to overheat water in a 70 plus gallon fresh water tank to 170 plus degrees? I'd imagine it would be better to recycle any lost fresh water regardless if its dumping properly or not?
 

Ron Werner

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Your FW tank will heat up pretty quick. When I had to rig my Judson with an exh hx I dumped the water back to FW tank. By the time I was at 1/2 tank it was HOT! So I tried a radiator and fan at first to cool the water before going back. I did that with my Big Red cause it dumped to waste so I modified it to cool off a radiator with an adjustable themostat on the fan.
The rad leaked, the whole thing looked bulky, so I remembered that CLeanco has a coolant hose for the pressure pump bypass that went into the waste tank.
So I took 50ft of copper tubing. Coiled it into a 8in coil, fit it out with some rubber for antivibration, etc, then plumbed that into the dump water system and dropped it into my waste tank. The water coming out is significantly cooler. My fw tank still warms up but not as fast and not as hot. Best thing, no moving parts for the cooling.
 

sassyotto

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I use a CRB solo operator so my wand is down a lot of the time so I hear ya.

My suggestion is to take the primary heat exchanger out or bypass it. This will solve your problem. You will still have plenty of heat unless you like constant 260 degrees

I removed my heat exchanger rather than bypassing it (made a plate to cap the hole). This allowed for less back pressure and kept the heat exchanger like new.

Sold the Apex and the new owner still uses the machine without the primary heat exchanger.
 
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Your FW tank will heat up pretty quick. When I had to rig my Judson with an exh hx I dumped the water back to FW tank. By the time I was at 1/2 tank it was HOT! So I tried a radiator and fan at first to cool the water before going back. I did that with my Big Red cause it dumped to waste so I modified it to cool off a radiator with an adjustable themostat on the fan.
The rad leaked, the whole thing looked bulky, so I remembered that CLeanco has a coolant hose for the pressure pump bypass that went into the waste tank.
So I took 50ft of copper tubing. Coiled it into a 8in coil, fit it out with some rubber for antivibration, etc, then plumbed that into the dump water system and dropped it into my waste tank. The water coming out is significantly cooler. My fw tank still warms up but not as fast and not as hot. Best thing, no moving parts for the cooling.
See this is a solid explanation and also I wouldnt have thought it would heat up that fast but honestly havent truly tried it. Like the idea of how you cooled it down tho!
 

Ron Werner

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just taking someone elses idea and modifying to fit my needs. Surprisingly it works! I've been running it like this since Sept of 14. The nice thing about the fw tank warming is it gives you some nice heat!
 

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Zip zero nada firsthand experience with your machine..

But it's a "performance machine" any high performance anything doesn't like running on half of anything
 
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just taking someone elses idea and modifying to fit my needs. Surprisingly it works! I've been running it like this since Sept of 14. The nice thing about the fw tank warming is it gives you some nice heat!
Correct see that's what I like to see someone rise and overcome a problem even if all these other guys are saying ita a stupid idea. It works and it's simple which is great!
 

sassyotto

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just taking someone elses idea and modifying to fit my needs. Surprisingly it works! I've been running it like this since Sept of 14. The nice thing about the fw tank warming is it gives you some nice heat!
just make sure your water pump can handle the temps
 

sassyotto

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Correct see that's what I like to see someone rise and overcome a problem even if all these other guys are saying ita a stupid idea. It works and it's simple which is great!
its a stupid idea. And your not overcoming a problem, your creating a new one

If it was a good idea, then TM makers would make them that way
 
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its a stupid idea. And your not overcoming a problem, your creating a new one

If it was a good idea, then TM makers would make them that way
I didnt say it was a better idea then how they are originally designed but I cant see how taking fresh water and wasting it period makes sense. Yes I understand it protects the pump but in theory if your thermo valve is functioning properly and just a few gallons a day is saved and recycled versus just being dumped then it doesnt seem like a stupid idea after all. Now if you have a problem like a bad thermo valve it should be fixed I'm not saying it shouldn't but I dont think fresh clean water should be wasted.
 

Ron Werner

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its a stupid idea. And your not overcoming a problem, your creating a new one

If it was a good idea, then TM makers would make them that way
just make sure your water pump can handle the temps
It never gets that hot. The hottest I've ever had the fw tank is after cleaning a condo building and gone through almost the whole tank.
TM mft dump water to the waste tank. THAT is a stupid idea, not very practical, BUT it is very safe and easy. OR then have sophisticated systems to shut down the heating system, ie exh diverters, that are problematic.
 

Ron Werner

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Zip zero nada firsthand experience with your machine..

But it's a "performance machine" any high performance anything doesn't like running on half of anything
it runs flat out all day long. Its a pump, blower, 25hp Kohler, (A Judson) , modified with a double barrel exh hx, a variable rad fan thermosensor, and a dump valve, Not really a much that can go wrong. gives me 150-170 at the wand, 12 flow at 500psi, with 14"Hg, Bayco valve relieves at 15".
Won't win any beauty contests, and it needs some tweaking from time to time, like they all do. But its a worker.
 
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bob vawter

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People that are wrong really don't realize they are wrong ......
Cuz who would wanna be wrong on purpose?
 
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It never gets that hot. The hottest I've ever had the fw tank is after cleaning a condo building and gone through almost the whole tank.
TM mft dump water to the waste tank. THAT is a stupid idea, not very practical, BUT it is very safe and easy. OR then have sophisticated systems to shut down the heating system, ie exh diverters, that are problematic.
I dont think fresh water being wasted is practical either I think that design Is for if you dont have a fresh water tank then it makes sense. Otherwise plumb to fresh water tank and be done with ut
 
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Ron Werner

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I dont think fresh water being wasted is practical either I think that design Is for if you dont have a fresh water tank then it makes sense. Otherwise plumb to fresh water tank and be done with ut
thats the reason right there. Most slideins are built to have an exterior water source. Many PTO units don't have a fw tank either.
 
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Hack Attack

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it runs flat out all day long. Its a pump, blower, 25hp Kohler, (A Judson) , modified with a double barrel exh hx, a variable rad fan thermosensor, and a dump valve, Not really a much that can go wrong. gives me 150-170 at the wand, 12 flow at 500psi, with 14"Hg, Bayco valve relieves at 15".
Won't win any beauty contests, and it needs some tweaking from time to time, like they all do. But its a worker.
yep was referring to O.P. not your setup 👍

but everything can be re-engineered to how you use it rather than how the manfacturer made it.

I'd look into the viability of running bypass water through a small radiator (to cool) back into freshwater tank myself
 

Matt Wood

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Prochem 650. Just standard issues - customer decides to chat with you for 5 minutes, working on a pesky stain that takes longer than you may have hoped, upholstery cleaning without much flow, a longer than necessary phone call. Straight up cleaning with a wand or rotary, no issues.
I’m tired of my truckmount dumping hot water over a certain temperature into the waste tank and depleting my fresh water tank supply. I understand the machine is doing what it’s designed to do, and that there can be a number of reasons the water heats up and needs to be dumped.
My question is, has anyone (surely someone has) plumbed the hot water dump line back to their cold freshwater tank? I’m sure that over time, the freshwater tank may get too warm, which is problematic for plastic tanks, and also means the truckmount will create hot water faster and start to dump even more hot water. Aside from those problems, are there other issues I’m not aware of?
I have the 650 also, and I'm not experiencing this problem. Can you tell me where your heat is set at when you notice this happening?

What's your wand flow set at on the jets?
 

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