linen couch

lust1kiddo

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I dont recall ever cleaning one..but I am going to tackle one on tuesday. She said there is a chocolate stain on it..any suggestions on what to do to NOT fry this thing? And or to get the chocolate out?

8)
 

GeneMiller

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linen is no fun to clean ,doesn't like to let go of stains. if the chocolate hasn't been scrubbed in you can probably rinse it with your pre spray ,something near neutral , and your vacuum . make sure it's cold, then flush with your upholstery tools what's left with cold water. i've had pretty good luck with this technique. any stain left just clean as usual with an acid rinse.

gene
 
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Hoody

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You'll want to use neutral... because using any reducers or oxidizers especially with spotting will and can cause problems. The last thing you want to do is change an antique white linen to eggshell. It'll be very unforgiving on the spotting. I've even seen some acids/reducers change linen colors.
 

Bob Foster

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Fels Naptha bar soap from a grocery store. Used for cleaning laundry. Grandma used to rub it into shirt collars.
 

lust1kiddo

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Steven.. maybe I need a refresher on how this stuff works. I "thought" that reducing the ph is reducing the strength of the detergnt..and " REDUCERS" are reducing oxygen hence it being a bleaching agent..oxidizers add o2 and reducers remove it..no?
 

K P

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Test in a small inconspicuous area with a mild reducer(q-tip)first,then try it on the stain.
 

ruff

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If I remember correctly Buff All acts as a buffer (stabilizes PH), however I doubt it is a reducer as that will neutralize the oxidizer. I would suspect it is an acid (not sure.)

Why use a reducer on that stain to begin with, before you know (and tried) that the color damage is actually not removable?

If you do not have a neutral cleaner, get one :shock:
Unless you'd really like a linen sofa in your home.

Chocolate is a complex stain. It has grease, protein from milk, cocoa butter, sugar, potentially some dyes etc.
How big is the stain?
Can you safely scrape some out, if yes, do. Do not push it further in. Vacuum to remove as much as possible.

As said above, stay on the cold side. A VDS may help with the grease but like any liquid it may help dye penetrate the fabric.
Enzymes may help with the protein. Still a liquid and on some fabrics, tends to lighten things. A neutral cleaner may be the first cleaning choice. If it does not work and if the fabric tolerates it. sometime an amoniated pre-spray may work. After that there are the dye stripping options.

Test Test Test.

Have client sign a release of liability before proceeding.
 

ruff

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Hoody said:
I don't care what John says about ya Ofer, you'z a smart man. :mrgreen:

Hey,
John always tells me I am the greatest.
Usually in direct correlation to the $$ size of the order :p :p

Has he been telling you otherwise? :shock: :shock: :shock:

I guess it's time to talk to Lora.
 

Desk Jockey

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Make sure you qualify the job, the stain is theirs, not yours. It being on a special care fabric is going to limit what results you are going to end up with. Make sure they know this before attempting anything.

Ofer is correct test first with your spotters. Removing some of the stain but leaving a halo around it won't go over well. I'd try a protein spotter but test first to be sure no undesired results.

Neutral cleaners are going to be a must for all the natural fibers you see. You need to get you a neutral shampoo also along with a sea sponge and horsehair brushes. They will help control your moisture on natural fibers which some of them are more prone to cellulosic browning and water rings than synthetics.
 

Ron K

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WHY USE US?
The truth is there are many other companies in the same industry. While there may be some subtle variations in company names and prices there is a major difference in customer care and experience. That is where we are the leader and what separates us from the pack. There are no hidden fees or funny sounding sales pitches. We are honest, punctual and utilize the highest level of professionalism ensuring the job is done correctly. Our repeat customers and referral record speaks for itself.
 

RGH269

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Buff All is a PH buffering agent not a reducer. If you need the brightning or bleaching from an oxygen product but the fabric might be harmed by high alkalinity you add a buffering agent to keep the alkalinity from harming delicate fibers. Not sure if this is the right way to go on this particular job. BTW this combo is normally used with a neutral cleaner as mentioned. Just be sure and get as much info on the stain causing chocolote before begining. So you can determine any additives as Ofer mentioned.
 

J Scott W

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Keep this in mind for the first time you clean linen. It is very absorbent. It turns darker as it soaks up the water. Don't worry. It will lighten back as it dries, but the drying will be slow.

Linen does stain easily. Patience on removing the chocolate with mildly alkaline cleaner and gentle agitation, luke warm or cool water. It may take repeated attempt. Patience.

Have air movers to help with the drying when you are finished.

Buff All reduces (lowers) the pH of highly alkaline products. Buff All is not a bleaching agent.
 
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lust1kiddo

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I have liquid one clean which is about ph8. I was gonna use the buff all to turn it down. I thought well it wasnt a reducing agent (bleach).
I was just seeing if I could use it to do that because I dont have a neutral detergent and the only people who sell chems in my area have chemspec shit..

And to the guy who pulled the quote off my site. I'm letting that one go..dick face.
Thanks for the help guys..

Jarred
 

Harry Myers

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Why not order avenge a nuetral spot cleaner. I use an amonia that self nuetralizes by steam way and also master blend both a good choice .order it online. If allyou have is chem spec I
 
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sam miller

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Heavy duty soil lifter nuetral maybe prekleen for upholsteryph 8 rinse with all fiber textile rinse.

the key is to evenly wet out the area being cleaned and not leave a water ring. And dry it well to blower is a good idea Good luck.

Chemspec has some good products enzall, liquid high heat an acid side detergent which has a polymer for less resoiling or anti resoiling

liquid 90 is good, all fiber textile rinse is as good as any rinse out there. Haitian powder was great when it first came out 20 plus years ago.

I like cti natural fiber cleaner now it doesnt smell as bad. Still if its all You had you could do worse at smart and final much worse.
 

Ron K

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Hey Dick Face. The reason you are getting intelligent answers from guys on these boards is because they were all in your shoes once.
But the difference is they went out and got educated or they...wait for it... READ. Get a Supply catalogue, Interlink Jon Don Adco Pro there is good information in them or call them. The only supplier close to you doesn't sell anything else??? Do they still have Mail in NYC? Dude you are on the right track, but don't be lazy. Drive down the FDR or LIE and grab a couple of cushions off the highway and practice. If you become what you say you are on your website then you'll be alright if you don't then you'll just be a BDCC lurking around on the boards.
 

lust1kiddo

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I UNDERSTAND THEY WERE IN MY SHOES PAL..BUT WAS IT REALLY HELPFUL TO JUST PULL A QUOTE FROM MY SITE AND THROW IT AT ME? And I'm educated enough to know what I dont know. That's why I ask for help. When I mean these suppliers dont sell that shit here, that means..I cant roll up to a place and just buy it and walk. Im sure that none of anyone boasts on their flyers or sites in their first year " hey Im a rookie, give me a shot.."
I can say everything with the most confidence with my clients because of my willingness to be taught.. I ask for help plenty of times and get it. thats why i can be as good as I am. Point is, if you wanna help me then cool..help me..but dont throw a rock with out a pearl of wisdom behind it, and expect me to say thanks.
 

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