LPG Heaters

Shorty

RIP
Joined
Nov 8, 2006
Messages
5,111
Location
Cairns
Name
Shorty Glanville
I have been looking for a decent LPG heater for some time.

There is one that I had on my old pc before it died, it was a large round red heater, whose name I have forgotten.

Others that I have looked at are:

Silver Eagle producing up to 380,000 BTU's

& the ever poplular

Little Giant # 4 producing up to 180,000 BTU's

Can anyone steer me in the right direction for these as to their serviceability in the field, as well as inherent safety and danger features of them. ??

Thanks,

:roll:
 
Joined
May 12, 2007
Messages
2,242
Shorty Down Under said:
I have been looking for a decent LPG heater for some time.

There is one that I had on my old pc before it died, it was a large round red heater, whose name I have forgotten.

Others that I have looked at are:

Silver Eagle producing up to 380,000 BTU's

& the ever poplular

Little Giant # 4 producing up to 180,000 BTU's

Can anyone steer me in the right direction for these as to their serviceability in the field, as well as inherent safety and danger features of them. ??

Thanks,

:roll:


Shorty,

There are a lot of gas-fired heating systems on the market. Most of these systems are purposely built for pressure washers. These systems will usually have stainless steel or carbon steel coils to take pressure in excess of 4,000 pounds. Even though these systems will take high pressure there is a trade off in efficiency to gain the pressure rating. Most of these systems use electric igniters and flow switches. They are great for pressure washers; when pressure washing the operator usually triggers the wand and holds it on for a long period of time. Using them on a carpet cleaner, when we trigger on and off frequently, they seem to not function properly due to the delay in reaction.

Now I would like to tell you about the Little Giant #4 heater. In all the years that we have been building truckmounts I’ve never seen a heating system better suited for the carpet cleaning industry than this heater. It is capable of running pressures of 1400 psi and it does not have flow switches or electric igniters. Judson has Little Giant heaters in operation in excess of 25 years. Also, the copper coils are extremely efficient compared to stainless or carbon steel coils. A 180,000 BTU heater on copper is the same as having a 250,000 BTU heater on steel coils due to the fact that copper conducts heat better than steel. When a #4 Little Giant heater is used with a Greenie 10 flow wand, it is the best combination I’ve ever seen. The performance of the system is outstanding. The heater burns less than 1 gallon of propane per hour under commercial carpet cleaning conditions. When you release the trigger, the flame shuts off within 2 seconds with only a thermostat control. It will maintain 240 degrees
 

Shorty

RIP
Joined
Nov 8, 2006
Messages
5,111
Location
Cairns
Name
Shorty Glanville
Thanks Les, stuff there I never knew.

Very informative.

I used to have, (still do, stuck in the back shed in cobwebs somewhere), a #2 Little Giant.

Twenty years ago it did a pretty good job but I always had that fear of fire with it.

Ooroo,

:roll:
 

floorguy

Supportive Member
Joined
Nov 7, 2006
Messages
6,948
Location
Utah
Name
Doug
just use some common sense and they are great..

i use a silver eagle one and love it...its been almost 3 years and i think an ignitor or something maybe going bad,(i need to call and ask them) it sometimes decides not to fire, but with a flick of the switch, its back going...

ifn you decided to add, or do pressure washing, just switch the hoses around and bam...


plus i like the electronic ignition, no pilot to blowout...and it makes me feel a little better about gas continuing to flow..

looking to add to the top (shrinking the exahust from a 10" to a 6") maybe help with the heat plus venting it outside
 

The Great Oz

Member
Joined
Nov 25, 2006
Messages
5,275
Location
seattle
Name
bryan
We have a Little Giant in our shop that is over thirty years old. We replaced the coil 15 years ago and a few thermocouples over the years. Pretty reliable.

The fear of fire can be overcome by: not using a portable propane bottle set inside the truck, not leaving the pilot light lit when fueling, and not lighting the pilot while smoking or fueling (yes, people do). If you overfill the tank the regulator might freeze up but it won't catch fire. Check fittings to make sure there are no leaks when you install the heater and if nothing happens to damage the hoses there isn't much to be concerned about.
 

Duane Oxley

Moon Unit
Joined
Oct 18, 2006
Messages
2,379
Location
Smyrna, GA.
Name
Duane Oxley
Personally, I don't like Little Giant heaters. We build systems with them if the customer requests it, or in order to make a less expensive system. But I always try to educate the customer to the benefits of high heat. And if I'm successful, they opt for it.

I've built systems with Little Giants and without them and can tell you from true A / B first- hand experience how they compare with "pressure washer" heaters.

Standard #3 Little giant heaters are fragile, lukewarm heaters, that simply can't keep up with normal demands for carpet cleaning, unless your idea of "demand" involves wild fluctuations in temperature and a relatively constant 150 degrees at the wand in warm weather. This may seem like a contradiction, so let me clarify:

If you pull the trigger on a Little Giant #3 with a wand with a #6 jet or equivalent, at 500 PSI on your system, and hold the wand keyed most of the time, it will give you a relatively constant 150 degrees at the wand.

If you cycle the trigger, 10 seconds on and 10 seconds off, you'll get spikes of close to 200 degrees. This is because when you're not keying the wand, the Little Giant is continuing to fire and "catch up" to the demand. (It isn't flow- fired. It's thermostatically- controlled. So it fires whether you have the wand keyed or not, if it's internal temperature is less than you have it set for.)

And, it's copper coil is subject to easy freeze damage, precisely because it conducts heat (and cold) so well. In addition, they rattle as you drive. And that rattling has been known, in my personal experience in a number of cases, to cause enough wear in a given spot to wear a hole in the area and result in a leak.

Although a standard #3 is rated at 900 PSI, the suggested regulator is set to a 600 PSI limit. Some systems have pressure gauges that show a caution at 600 PSI and a "Red Line" at 900 PSI.

As far as the #4, if it's rated at 1400 PSI, then based upon what I've seen with their rating for the #3, I would be very hesitant to run it at 1200 PSI. So I wouldn't take that 1,400 rating as a given to work with.

I've had customers come in with number 4's on their systems. And none of them actually deliver the heat that Les mentions. (Maybe he knows something that the other manufacturers are missing. I know he's not dishonest and does know propane- at least, Little Giant propane, well.)

Little Giant's own literature states that #4's deliver 120 degrees rise over input temperature at 1.87 GPM. That means that for an input temperature of 65 degrees, they'll "rise" it to 185 degrees. If you increase the flow through the heater, you'll get less "rise" in temperature. If you reduce the flow, you'll get more "rise".

Little Giant #3's deliver 120 degrees rise at 1.25 GPM

The above ratings do not take into account heat loss between the system (i.e., the heater) and the wand. Heat loss is typically 30 degrees, but can be more in wintertime and over longer hose runs.

Because Little Giants are thermostatically- controlled, they, by their very nature of operation, have a drop in temperature, in order to fire. (The thermostat functions as a "low limit" switch.) The "HT" series has a feature that does offset this somewhat, placing the thermostat closer to the cold water input and causing it to therefore be more responsive than the older "H" series.

As for "pressure washer" heaters, we build systems with them. They do go on and off when you pull the trigger. (The thermostat functions as a "high limit" switch.) And the time it takes for them to fire from the trigger being pulled is about 1 second. For them to go off takes about 2 seconds. At least, that's how ours do. (This can be affected by a few things, such as the make and model of the gas valve, the type of flow switch, and others, but it's entirely possible to build them so that they respond quickly to the wand trigger as a matter of normal, every day use.

I don't know about a 4,000 PSI coil for pressure washer heaters. Ours are rated at 10,000 PSI. As a result, they are virtually indestructible. (I've never known one to be damaged from freezing.)

If you've read my posts over time, you've probably noticed that I've been a promoter of "high heat / high flow" since I came on the Internet in 1997 or so. I was into "heat and flow" long before that. But at any rate, there is one thing that I've always been specific about when speaking of heat: flow rate. Why? Because quoting temperature without specifying flow is all buy meaningless, in my opinion. So, I'll say this about these heaters: On our standard, single- wand propane systems, I can set them up to deliver more heat than you can use. And I define that as "over 240 degrees, measured at the wand". So, they're "tuned" to deliver 230 to 240 degrees, measured at the wand... at a flow rate of 1.8 GPM. How much is 1.8 GPM...? It's 600 PSI, at the jet, through a number 6 jet or equivalent. (We actually measure at the wand valve, which is as close as reasonable.)

There is a pressure loss between the system and the wand. That loss depends upon the diameter of hose, of course. But with 1/4" hose, it's 150 to 250 PSI, depending upon hose length. So, taking a median for example, 200 PSI is reasonable. As a result, you'll have to have 800 (200 PSI more) pressure at the machine in order to have 600 at the wand.

I know of no Little Giant anywhere that can match that.

As far as fuel consumption, these systems do use more than 1 gallon of propane an hour. They use about 1.25, but they deliver a lot more heat from that. (I say, "about", because it varies with how hot you run them and what your wand key habits are. If you key less and dry stroke more, you'll use less propane. If you turn the temperature down, you'll use less.)

But one thing they do NOT do: They do NOT heat when you're not keying the wand. Because they're not thermostatically- fired like a Little Giant. A Little Giant, by contrast, is like a home water heater (because they are, basically, a home water heater, with coils instead of a tank). It fires and keeps the water hot, whether you're using it or not.

In addition, I'm not so sure that the actual trade- off in efficiency is accurate. Maybe this is because these systems have a lot of coil to them. They're not wound like a Little Giant. They're wound with a single coil going up the sides, and then "pancakes" of coil- flat spirals, basically- at the top. Some heaters I've seen have 2, some have more. Ours have 3 to 4, depending upon which model.

And by the way, we use the same coils for the oil- fired systems we build. And we use the same flow switch and plumbing, so they respond in a very similar manner... On virtually immediately and off within a couple of seconds.
 
T

The Magician

Guest
Shorty we need more info. What are you using the heater for? This will determine what size you will need. I had a lil giant # 3 that would maintain 220 with a number 4/6 jet. The giants need maintenace like cleaning the burner ring etc. Good heater but Duane and Bob Salvage are better. Don't be afraid of propane everyone has a propane grill in thier back yard. they are safe with common sense. I used propane for over 25 years. Only problems was the tech overfilling the tank. Use a belly tank under the van.
 
Joined
Sep 3, 2007
Messages
961
Location
Victoria, BC
Name
Bill Soukoreff
The Magician said:
Shorty we need more info. What are you using the heater for? This will determine what size you will need. I had a lil giant # 3 that would maintain 220 with a number 4/6 jet. The giants need maintenace like cleaning the burner ring etc. Good heater but Duane and Bob Salvage are better. Don't be afraid of propane everyone has a propane grill in thier back yard. they are safe with common sense. I used propane for over 25 years. Only problems was the tech overfilling the tank. Use a belly tank under the van.

I agree, the Savage heater is one of the best and safest heaters built. Insane heat and really great safety features that are bullet proof. It uses way less propane than a little giant #4 and will blow it away in heat. The steel coils will outlast your truck. The flow switch works even with an upholstery tool. I would never go back to a Little Giant, copper coil or non flow fired unit ever again. It would be a serious down grade for me.

Switch it on and go it work, never think about it again. Mine is over 6 years old now and the only required maintenance is replacing the flow switch every couple of years. It uses the best flow switch made by General Pump.

You will not believe how little propane it uses.

Some bad mouth steel coil, but I have never had a problem with it. Once the coil is coated, it's fine after that.

The savage will be the last heater you buy.
 

floorguy

Supportive Member
Joined
Nov 7, 2006
Messages
6,948
Location
Utah
Name
Doug
Bill, you only have switched out the flow switch???

maybe thats where mine is having issue, not sensing flow....got a link for what you use???

or you duane???
 

Duane Oxley

Moon Unit
Joined
Oct 18, 2006
Messages
2,379
Location
Smyrna, GA.
Name
Duane Oxley
floorguy said:
Bill, you only have switched out the flow switch???

maybe thats where mine is having issue, not sensing flow....got a link for what you use???

or you duane???

I've used 3 different kinds over the years:

A Vacuum- operated one (Very reliable, but doesn't do well with water supply tanks.)

A "mount in any position" one, like the Suttner ST-6. (Un- reliable. I never understood why SteamWay used them. They're spring- loaded so that they waork in any position. And the spring adds unnecessary drag, reduces sensitivity, etc.)

A vertical one, the Suttner ST-5 http://www.suttner.com/products/Details ... =93&CID=12

It's best installed on the inlet to the pump.
 

Shorty

RIP
Joined
Nov 8, 2006
Messages
5,111
Location
Cairns
Name
Shorty Glanville
Thanks Magician, whoever the hell you are. :lol:

I got an email from Mikey asking me to post my real name and update my details.

Didn't you get one :?:



Anyhow, Bob e'Savage is the guy that had the red heater that I couldn't think of.

K.R.A.F.T. had raised it's ugly head again. :oops:

Sorry, K.R.A.F.T. for those that are unsure is for Kan't Remember A Frikkin' Thing. :oops:

Thanks for that mental jog. :D



Back to your question asking about what I'll be using it for, which will also allay some of Duane's concerns.

I have a Master Blend TF3500

It has a maximum of 500psi, which I would not be using, 350-400max; for me, unless I'm hooked up to my CMX-20, time will tell. 8)

I run a custom made 2" wand with 2 x 11003 jets and Green Glide, but don't tell the wankers at chem-who. :lol:

The short length of my wand, plus the angles at both the top and bottom of the wand are much more severe than normal wands, this allows me to stand upright when wanding and end up with NO back pain after twelve hours work.

Strictly for carpets, upholstery & mattress cleaning.

Basically all residential where the machine will stay in the van or truck.

Thanks for the great info.

Ooroo,

:roll:
 

pHilh

Member
Joined
Oct 7, 2006
Messages
40
Shorty Steam-vac have a new SS model out and it looks quite good,rated 3000psi?

They had it at the show.........
 

steve g

Member
Joined
Oct 8, 2006
Messages
2,316
Location
herriman, UT
Name
steve garrett
the #3 little giant is not enough heater for a carpet cleaning machine, IIRC that is the 120k btu unit. I ran them back in the day, on slide in steam genies, we ran about 450 psi and often I don't think the wands even had a 6 total jet, they may have been 4 jetted because of being a portable wand. in any event the heat was not anywhere near enough. my little prochem super saber puts out alot more heat than a 120k little giant, duane is right the 120k little giant will only maintain about 150 degrees if your on the trigger a bunch say cleaning open commerical glue down carpet.

kero burners are the only fuel heaters I have seen that really put out the heat, but I say piss on both setups and just buy a HX machine
 
Joined
May 12, 2007
Messages
2,242
Duane Oxley said:
Personally, I don't like Little Giant heaters. We build systems with them if the customer requests it, or in order to make a less expensive system. But I always try to educate the customer to the benefits of high heat. And if I'm successful, they opt for it.

I personally love Little Giant heaters! We build systems that are the most RELIABLE for our customers whether they like it or not. We don’t use heaters with steel coils rusting and putting out black water, that use flow switches and milliamp generators and electric spark igniters. We do not sell carpet cleaning systems that exceed the maximum temperature limit of the pressure hose of 250 degrees. If you use a system that exceeds the pressure limit of the hoses and an end ruptures and scalds a child, who now needs skin grafts on her melted little face, in a courtroom environment that would be considered a slam dunk loss on your behalf. You can kiss everything you’ve ever owned and will own for the rest of your life goodbye.


Duane Oxley said:
I've built systems with Little Giants and without them and can tell you from true A / B first- hand experience how they compare with "pressure washer" heaters.

Judson has built systems with heating systems other than Little Giant. The inventor of the truckmount, my Dad, Judson O. Jones, built the very first truckmount with a steel coil 600,000 BTU heater, milliamp control, spark-ignite, flow activated system. This system was built for Monsanto the inventors of Astroturf to clean football fields. This system worked fine for this application because the wand was four feet wide and had a flow rate of 8 gallons pr minute. So, Judson can give you a first hand experience on EXACTLY what does and DOES NOT work for a carpet cleaning machine.



Duane Oxley said:
Standard #3 Little giant heaters are fragile, lukewarm heaters, that simply can't keep up with normal demands for carpet cleaning, unless your idea of "demand" involves wild fluctuations in temperature and a relatively constant 150 degrees at the wand in warm weather. This may seem like a contradiction, so let me clarify:

If you pull the trigger on a Little Giant #3 with a wand with a #6 jet or equivalent, at 500 PSI on your system, and hold the wand keyed most of the time, it will give you a relatively constant 150 degrees at the wand.

If you cycle the trigger, 10 seconds on and 10 seconds off, you'll get spikes of close to 200 degrees. This is because when you're not keying the wand, the Little Giant is continuing to fire and "catch up" to the demand. (It isn't flow- fired. It's thermostatically- controlled. So it fires whether you have the wand keyed or not, if it's internal temperature is less than you have it set for.)


Little Giant heaters are NOT fragile. They are NOT lukewarm heaters. Any issues these heaters ever had were corrected years ago. Little Giant heaters WILL keep up with NORMAL demand for carpet cleaning. You do not clean carpets holding the trigger on full time! If you use the carpet cleaning machine for it’s designed purpose of cleaning carpets, which does NOT require you holding the trigger on full time, the Little Giant heater will maintain your desired temperature. Judson has hundreds and hundreds of Little Giant carpet cleaning systems with the original heaters that are still operating after 25 years! If these were lukewarm, fragile pieces of crap, I don’t think they would still be working after this long of a period of time. The temperature at the wand is irrelevant. All carpet cleaning systems lose the same amount of heat through their pressure hose, regardless of who’s system is being used. Greenie’s high flow system is designed for gaining more temperature at the wand without having to have the temperature of the machine beyond the capabilities of the pressure hose. Instead of having the temperature set at 270 degrees which is beyond the limit of the pressure hose, which is what Duane is suggesting HE does, the Greenie system flows the water faster through the pressure hose, minimizing the temperature loss to maybe 10 degrees.



Duane Oxley said:
And, it's copper coil is subject to easy freeze damage, precisely because it conducts heat (and cold) so well. In addition, they rattle as you drive. And that rattling has been known, in my personal experience in a number of cases, to cause enough wear in a given spot to wear a hole in the area and result in a leak.

Judson doesn’t suggest that the operator allow any truckmount to freeze, because a ruptured heater is going to be the least of your troubles. At least if it does rupture, it can be repaired at a local radiator shop. When a pump head bursts, there is no repairing it. As far as the rubbing of the coils goes, I’ve seen a few do this after they’ve been in use for around 15 years. Again, it’s just an easy fix at a local radiator shop. As I mentioned before, all the issues were addressed by Little Giant years ago.


Duane Oxley said:
Although a standard #3 is rated at 900 PSI, the suggested regulator is set to a 600 PSI limit. Some systems have pressure gauges that show a caution at 600 PSI and a "Red Line" at 900 PSI.

As far as the #4, if it's rated at 1400 PSI, then based upon what I've seen with their rating for the #3, I would be very hesitant to run it at 1200 PSI. So I wouldn't take that 1,400 rating as a given to work with.

When Judson introduced the Little Giant heater to the carpet cleaning industry, it’s original design was for church baptism pools which were relatively low pressure systems. Through the years, with our involvement with the design of the heater, we have increased the pressure ratings for the #3 and #4 heaters. They are now available in high pressure and standard pressure versions.



Duane Oxley said:
I've had customers come in with number 4's on their systems. And none of them actually deliver the heat that Les mentions. (Maybe he knows something that the other manufacturers are missing. I know he's not dishonest and does know propane- at least, Little Giant propane, well.)

As I mentioned before Judson has been directly involved in the development of this heater since the early ‘70’s and I don’t want to give away any Judson secrets, but a properly installed Little Giant will perform at the temperatures I claim.



Duane Oxley said:
Little Giant's own literature states that #4's deliver 120 degrees rise over input temperature at 1.87 GPM. That means that for an input temperature of 65 degrees, they'll "rise" it to 185 degrees. If you increase the flow through the heater, you'll get less "rise" in temperature. If you reduce the flow, you'll get more "rise".

These numbers are open flow ratings. Duane, do you know of any cleaners who clean carpet with the trigger pulled constantly and who never let go no matter what? Do you know of any cleaners who have their wand triggers duct taped open? If so, perhaps we should eliminate their wand valve altogether! At least that way they won’t get carpal tunnel syndrome from holding the trigger open all the time.


Duane Oxley said:
The above ratings do not take into account heat loss between the system (i.e., the heater) and the wand. Heat loss is typically 30 degrees, but can be more in wintertime and over longer hose runs.

Duane, what do you suggest we do to take into consideration heat loss through the pressure hose of 30 degrees? I know you’re not suggesting having the machine set at a higher temperature than the pressure hose is rated for are you?


Duane Oxley said:
Because Little Giants are thermostatically- controlled, they, by their very nature of operation, have a drop in temperature, in order to fire. (The thermostat functions as a "low limit" switch.) The "HT" series has a feature that does offset this somewhat, placing the thermostat closer to the cold water input and causing it to therefore be more responsive than the older "H" series.

This is correct Duane. When Judson developed the HT series and moved the thermostat from the bottom to the top, it was to take temperature fluctuation out of the heater. As a matter of fact, the heater does NOT drop in temperature to fire the burner, because we designed it to where the cold water hits the thermostat probe first and fires the burner ring immediately. This is why a Little Giant heater is so responsive like it has a flow switch, but it doesn’t have one. Why have a flow switch when you don’t have to?

Duane Oxley said:
As for "pressure washer" heaters, we build systems with them. They do go on and off when you pull the trigger. (The thermostat functions as a "high limit" switch.) And the time it takes for them to fire from the trigger being pulled is about 1 second. For them to go off takes about 2 seconds. At least, that's how ours do. (This can be affected by a few things, such as the make and model of the gas valve, the type of flow switch, and others, but it's entirely possible to build them so that they respond quickly to the wand trigger as a matter of normal, every day use.

Duane, I guess if you MUST have a flow switch even though you don’t need one, you should just keep tinkering with it to get it figured out.

Duane Oxley said:
I don't know about a 4,000 PSI coil for pressure washer heaters. Ours are rated at 10,000 PSI. As a result, they are virtually indestructible. (I've never known one to be damaged from freezing.)

Again, Judson doesn’t suggest letting your machine freeze. Even if you DO let a Judson machine freeze, as long as you just drain the heater first it won’t burst either. A copper coil is extremely efficient on fuel consumption and is rated WAY higher in terms of pressure than what we need to clean carpets or tile floors, so I don’t understand why anyone would build a system with a 10,000 psi coil that would HAVE to require a thick-walled tube to have these ratings. A system like this would be so inefficient!


Duane Oxley said:
If you've read my posts over time, you've probably noticed that I've been a promoter of "high heat / high flow" since I came on the Internet in 1997 or so. I was into "heat and flow" long before that. But at any rate, there is one thing that I've always been specific about when speaking of heat: flow rate. Why? Because quoting temperature without specifying flow is all buy meaningless, in my opinion. So, I'll say this about these heaters: On our standard, single- wand propane systems, I can set them up to deliver more heat than you can use. And I define that as "over 240 degrees, measured at the wand". So, they're "tuned" to deliver 230 to 240 degrees, measured at the wand... at a flow rate of 1.8 GPM. How much is 1.8 GPM...? It's 600 PSI, at the jet, through a number 6 jet or equivalent. (We actually measure at the wand valve, which is as close as reasonable.)

If you will go back to the beginning of truckmounts….the very first truckmount in history was the one my Dad has a patent on that he designed to clean Astroturf with in 1967. I challenge any manufacturer to produce a system with as much flow as it had. It had a flow of 8 gallons pr minute.

Duane, I know you went to a lot of trouble, making this long post, and it is quite obvious that you are trying to discredit my post. In this statement where you claim temperatures of 240 degrees at the wand, you are saying that you are selling truckmounts that are putting out more temperature at the machine than the pressure hose is rated for. The maximum temperature rating for Goodyear Neptune is 250 degrees. The max temperature for Parflex is 230 degrees. This is one of the most dangerous situations you are putting your customers in! If there is ever a rupture and someone is injured, with as hungry as lawyers are out there looking for anything, I don’t know how you are going to explain your way out of this.

I don’t understand why you WANT all that HEAT at the wand anyway! You do know that a piece of carpet is a piece of plastic nylon don’t you? One time I was playing with a heater, and I kept turning it up and up and up. I think I had it set at 250 degrees leaving the truck. Where the pressure hose was first entering the building, it was laying in a couple of loops. When we finished the job and were loading the hoses up, where the hose was laying on the carpet, it heat-set V grooves in the carpet that we could not get out. The heat permanently damaged the carpet.

Another thing with having high temperature on the pressure hose is that it is too hot to touch! You can’t keep reaching down to pull it out of the wand operator’s way.


Duane Oxley said:
There is a pressure loss between the system and the wand. That loss depends upon the diameter of hose, of course. But with 1/4" hose, it's 150 to 250 PSI, depending upon hose length. So, taking a median for example, 200 PSI is reasonable. As a result, you'll have to have 800 (200 PSI more) pressure at the machine in order to have 600 at the wand.

I know of no Little Giant anywhere that can match that.

Duane, if you are talking about running a Little Giant heater at 800 lbs, so you will have 600 lbs at the wand, a standard Little Giant heater will do this. There is no problem running 800 lbs on a standard Little Giant heater. The reason Judson developed the new high pressure systems was for tile floor cleaning purposes. You can run these heaters at 1200 psi.


Duane Oxley said:
As far as fuel consumption, these systems do use more than 1 gallon of propane an hour. They use about 1.25, but they deliver a lot more heat from that. (I say, "about", because it varies with how hot you run them and what your wand key habits are. If you key less and dry stroke more, you'll use less propane. If you turn the temperature down, you'll use less.)

The fuel numbers that I am giving on a Little Giant heater are accurate, because I have actually put a propane bottle on a scale and weighed the bottle under commercial and residential conditions. The #4 Little Giant heater on a 10 flow Greenhorn wand, set at 500 psi, on 100 feet of pressure hose, will maintain 240 degrees and consume nine tenths of one gallon of propane per hour under commercial carpet cleaning conditions. The same #4 Little Giant heater will maintain 240 degrees on a 10 flow Greenhorn wand, set at 500 psi, on 100 feet of pressure hose, and the propane consumption is .5 gallons per hour under residential cleaning conditions.

Duane Oxley said:
But one thing they do NOT do: They do NOT heat when you're not keying the wand. Because they're not thermostatically- fired like a Little Giant. A Little Giant, by contrast, is like a home water heater (because they are, basically, a home water heater, with coils instead of a tank). It fires and keeps the water hot, whether you're using it or not.

This is one of the best things about a Little Giant heater! It is very similar to a home hot water heater. People with home hot water heaters have them in their house. They are allowed to be inside people’s houses because they are extremely SAFE! Why are these home hot water heater’s so safe? They don’t require electricity. They don’t require flow switches. They don’t require milliamp generators, and they don’t have spark igniters. They have a standing pilot light JUST LIKE a Little Giant heater.


Duane Oxley said:
In addition, I'm not so sure that the actual trade- off in efficiency is accurate. Maybe this is because these systems have a lot of coil to them. They're not wound like a Little Giant. They're wound with a single coil going up the sides, and then "pancakes" of coil- flat spirals, basically- at the top. Some heaters I've seen have 2, some have more. Ours have 3 to 4, depending upon which model.

And by the way, we use the same coils for the oil- fired systems we build. And we use the same flow switch and plumbing, so they respond in a very similar manner... On virtually immediately and off within a couple of seconds.

There is a BIG tradeoff in efficiency for not using copper coils! Basically Judson designs carpet cleaners for that purpose only. We don’t overbuild something for purposes it will never be used for. All Judson cares about is reliability, simplicity, and common parts FIRST. As I stated in my response to this post that you were trying to discredit, I have NEVER seen a better heat source for a Greenie 10 flow wand than a #4 Little Giant heater. It is just so reliable and proven. They have been around a long time.
 

Duane Oxley

Moon Unit
Joined
Oct 18, 2006
Messages
2,379
Location
Smyrna, GA.
Name
Duane Oxley
Hey, Les...

No, I wasn't trying to discredit you. I have a different view and stated clearly what it is. If you read what I said about you in particular, I specifically said that you're honest and know Little Giant systems. I even insinuated that you may know some things about them that few do.

It's late. I'm tired. I just got in from work.

Gonna eat and get some sleep and then pick this up again.

"Heat at the wand is irrelevant..."...

Man, you and I couldn't differ more on that point of view.

More later.

Duane
 

Shorty

RIP
Joined
Nov 8, 2006
Messages
5,111
Location
Cairns
Name
Shorty Glanville
Thank you for the incredible information.

This would never be obtainable on another forum.

The frankness and honesty in answering questions to the utmost is to be admired.

Ooroo,

:roll:
 

Duane Oxley

Moon Unit
Joined
Oct 18, 2006
Messages
2,379
Location
Smyrna, GA.
Name
Duane Oxley
Mikey P said:
Duane,


I'm curious, how many of your machines have you sold?

Mike:

Over the years, I've lost count of them.

Hundreds. And the vast, vast majority, built by me, personally. Including the welds.

I've designed 15 different models over the years.

My intent was not and is not to "damage" or "discredit" Les. I had a conversation on the phone with him a while back and found him to be up- front and likable in a genuine way.

He stated some negative opinions about "pressure washer heaters", which we use and have used continuously, since the first system I built in 1996.

I have a differing view from his. Mine is based upon using them for over 13 years. And my experiences are different regarding them, most likely, because I know them so well.

Les has a differing view of Little Giants from mine. His is, as he has said here, based upon unique experience he has with them, that no one else has.

So there is a parallel of sorts here.

Is there something wrong with that...?

No.

Can both be right at the same time?

Absolutely.

Les can apparently tweak a Little Giant like no one else in the industry. He says so. So, his experience with them is unique.

My experience with them is also true. And it's an accurate representation of many people who have used and do use, Little Giant heaters.

So, both are correct.

His experience with "pressure washer heaters", or rather, his fathers, was long ago and short- lived, as he says. Mine isn't . Mine is long and continuous. I've used 4 different suppliers of them over the years and can tell you from that kind of experience that they are not all the same. A simple thing like one brand of burner ring over another can make a considerable difference. So can one gas valve or another, etc. So it's a complex subject from a design standpoint, even though the finished result is pretty simple.

Little Giants are, by contrast, admittedly more simple. But that simplicity underscores the truth of what I'm saying here in one regard:

If such a simple system can not be run to it's fullest advantage by the vast majority of the industry who uses it, then can a system that's more complex be lumped into a group of "all pressure washer heaters" accurately? In other words, if such a simple thing that's "plug and play", like a stereo component basically cannot be truly understood and tweaked by but one supplier in the industry, can anyone with minimal experience with a more complex system truly understand and tweak it? Can they accurately describe it from years of continuous experience with it?

Not really.

Is this saying that Les is "wrong"...?

I don't see it that way. He's just "very informed" about one and "less informed" about the other. And being so, he has knowledge about one and opinion about the other.

There's nothing wrong with that.

But when he makes a statement of opinion about a heating system that you can't truly know, unless you look at that particular system... and it's the one I understand about as complete as anyone I've come into contact with. (I don't like to say, I "know it all", but I do know more than most.), then I feel the need to clarify.

And in the process, tip my hat to Les by referring to his honesty and experience, both of which are, in my impression, unquestionable.

So, if you, or anyone else sees what I posted as an intentional attack of some kind, then I suggest that you take a deep breath and go back to read what I said in that regard up there.

It ain't so.
 

Willy P

Member
Joined
Oct 2, 2007
Messages
10,665
Location
Vancouver
Name
Willy P
Mikey P said:
not too mention a non advertiser was allowed to challenge and cause potential harm to a paying banner advertiser..


Yeh - NO DAMNED FREE SPEECH HERE! :roll:
 

Duane Oxley

Moon Unit
Joined
Oct 18, 2006
Messages
2,379
Location
Smyrna, GA.
Name
Duane Oxley
Les:

Back to where I left off last night...

Yes, I do recommend that people run hot at the wand. Personally, I see "ATW" as where it's at. Because it literally is. It doesn't matter if the system is generating 1,000 degrees, figuratively- speaking, if the temperature at the wand is lukewarm.

My experience as a cleaner, with 8 years of continuous cleaning and 4 trucks in the company I owned is where my "opinion" comes from. My recommendation of 230 at the wand as the "sweet spot" is easy to research. And yes, taking into account heat loss, that means running at a whopping 10 to 20 degrees over what the hose manufacturer says.

Once again, we get into this fear stuff. Just like blowers don't fall apart if they're tweaked a bit, because they have a "work factor" or safety margin, hose has a "safety factor".

A hose that's rated at 250 degrees is rated for continuous use at that temperature. What happens at 260...? It simply doesn't last as long. But it's not a night and day thing. (i.e., It doesn't break down in a day, or a week, or a month, etc.) In my experience, such a hose should be changed out in about a year. And hose couplings and crimps should be examined daily for potential breaks, But such beaks are not typically heat- related. They're from wear and tear.

The thing is, that it's not uncommon for system temperature readings to be inaccurate. This is especially obvious when you see a temperature gauge sensor "suspiciously close" to an exhaust manifold on a system. So, from that perspective as well, there is a need to have a reading at the wand. (The popularity of "lie detectors" is a good indication of this.)

I had a conversation yesterday with a guy who called about a system. And the topic of temperature came up as it often does. He asked how hot the system we were discussing us building for him could run.

"As hot as you want it to.", I told him.

"You mean, I could have 300 degrees at the wand?", he asked.

"Yes, but I don't build systems that go that high for a reason."

"Why?"

"Because it's a waste."

"How is that?"

And I explained how, with heat loss being typically 15 degrees per inch of travel between the jet and the carpet, that with 230 to 240 ATW, you have 200 to 210 leaving the jets. Above that, and you start getting vapor, instead of hot liquid. And vapor doesn't have flushing ability. It simply fogs the room up.

So, "Yes", I recommend, to people who have our boiler systems and get used to that kind of heat, to run at 230 to 240, ATW. And we've actually started putting temperature gauges on the wand, so that they'll know for a fact how hot they're running.

Here's a link to a thread on ICS "Duane 240 at 600 is Awesome", dated April 11, 2000 that addresses this very topic: http://i-boards.com/ics/messages.asp?Ms ... eadID=2950

As far as "rusting" in the coil, once one is seasoned, that's not a factor. "Seasoned" means that they glaze over on the inside. And we give everybody some UltraRinse to speed that process, since it has an acid in it that specifically helps with seasoning.

Hey, I know that higher flow loses less temperature. You're preaching to the choir on this. I've said it for years. But temperature at the wand is temperature at the wand. There is no substitute. Granted, heat loss from the jets is less at higher flow rates. Well, in a way, at least. Assuming that the jet streams are larger and not divided into several jets. (Take a given flow and divide it among more and more jets, and the streams become thinner, so they lose more heat, etc.) The way to offset that is to enclose the streams on the way to the carpet. (Another way is to move the wand slower, but that's another story.) That way, that "mini environment" is not as affected by the ambient temperature in the room.

Anyway...

Hey, Les... I'm not joking when I say I didn't mean to insult you in any way. I hope I've been clear enough for you to see my sincerity about this.

In my book, you're one of the "good guys" in the industry.
 

handdi

Supportive Member
Joined
Feb 1, 2008
Messages
1,039
Location
Anderson sc
Name
Randy
I just do;nt get this 230 degree stuff we have #4 heaters
and we run at 200 degrees on the console and gee its HOT
10 flow you can'nt handle the hoses.
on the turbo tool again 200 degrees all day long well 6 hours one day any way
ONLY gripe i have is that humongus regulator that
hangs on the lp tank
900 hours and no issues at all.
heck i did a set of stairs yest with greenie stair tool
you would have thought there was a fire in the room
steam everywhere
just do'nt get this 230 250 degree stuff
 

Duane Oxley

Moon Unit
Joined
Oct 18, 2006
Messages
2,379
Location
Smyrna, GA.
Name
Duane Oxley
handdi said:
I just do'nt get this 230 250 degree stuff

Nobody "gets it", in terms of seeing the difference and wanting it, until they try it.

There are guys out there who say the very same thing that you do... who clean at 180 at the machine.

It's just the nature of things. You can't fully appreciate some things from a distance.
 

Bob Savage

Member
Joined
Oct 7, 2006
Messages
1,288
Location
Dayton, Ohio
Name
Bob Savage
A great thread indeed.

Les Jones said:
Duane, I know you went to a lot of trouble, making this long post, and it is quite obvious that you are trying to discredit my post. In this statement where you claim temperatures of 240 degrees at the wand, you are saying that you are selling truckmounts that are putting out more temperature at the machine than the pressure hose is rated for. The maximum temperature rating for Goodyear Neptune is 250 degrees. The max temperature for Parflex is 230 degrees. This is one of the most dangerous situations you are putting your customers in! If there is ever a rupture and someone is injured, with as hungry as lawyers are out there looking for anything, I don’t know how you are going to explain your way out of this.

Les, you know that temperature rating of high-pressure solution hoses is NOT at 500 PSI, but it is at 1750 PSI, 2000 PSI, 3000 PSI, whatever the particular hose is rated at. However, it would be insane to clean with over 260º ATW. We offer a heater that won't go over 240º, and one that will go to 280º, at 500 PSI, #8 flow, on 125' of hose, ambient not below 40º.

I used Little Giants exclusively in carpet cleaning from 1984 until 2000. The Little Giant is a very good, reliable LP heater. I believe you use Little Giants because they have proven to you that they are a good, reliable heat source for your machines.

In the development of our LP heater this past 10 years, we now have a 120V/24V automatic pilot system (it light's automatically, and shuts down automatically - no "hands on"). Even though we use a flow switch, we also have an automatic quick-timer circuit on-board that will keep the burn going after you release the wand trigger, so the heater isn't cycling ON and OFF so much. It also heats the water more efficiently because it will operate without the flow of the water.

Our heater also has a high-limit shutdown, in addition to the thermostat (also a high-limit device). And, YES, you could operate these heaters without a flow switch at all. It is strictly optional.

We have not had any black water problems with these coils.

The heaters we offer, and the one's Duane offers, are just different than the Little Giant, not necessarily better. It gives carpet cleaners more to choose from.
 

floorguy

Supportive Member
Joined
Nov 7, 2006
Messages
6,948
Location
Utah
Name
Doug
I had black water for about 10 days after i bought it...And 1 day after a "hard" descale (just look at the rust in my driveway :D :shock: )

There have been a few jobs people wanted things Pressure washed...so i threw in the pressure washer and wah-laa, could run the 2500 psi PW and have my heat right there with me..

Also a standing pilot light has blown out on me more times then i care to count, (back when i had a little giant)...Ill take a little fixin to have the ease of a flick on lighter...

mine runs a tad cooler because i run 15 flow and 700psi (900 on gauge) most times, so i want (and have it at restraunts) a preheater to get it to about 100-130 before it hits the heater...but i think ill kick the jetting back and see how that helps..
 

Latest posts

Back
Top Bottom