New Unleashed II+ installed

charles

Member
Joined
Nov 11, 2006
Messages
99
Great looking machine, let us know how you like it once you have used it for a while.
 

RichardnTn

Member
Joined
Oct 18, 2006
Messages
447
Steve, There isn't any excess hot water.... heater works on demand (thermostat and flow switch) I think Duane has some unique ideas on his HX machine that he is going to use that will do just a you say though.....Best to you, Richard R
 

Duane Oxley

Moon Unit
Joined
Oct 18, 2006
Messages
2,379
Location
Smyrna, GA.
Name
Duane Oxley
Steve...

As Richard said, there isn't "excess" water. the thermo sensor is a fail- safe.

But your question does apply to heat exchange technology....

Plumbing a bypass back to the "water" tank, makes it not a water tank, but a "mix" tank. The way our systems inject chemical is, directly into the pump, using an orifice that creates a venturi effect. That means that there are no moving parts and nothing to go wrong over time.

In this approach, the water tank is always a "water- only" tank. Plumbing a bypass into it would mean bypassing chemical- injected water back to the water- only tank, which would screw up the chemical ratio.

This is not the case if the system has down- stream injection, but I don't like the complication that goes along with that... like I'm not a big fan if mix tanks. (My experience with mix tanks and Dema injection systems is that they are too finicky for me. I'd rather keep things simple.)
 

The Preacher

Member
Joined
Oct 13, 2006
Messages
3,401
what DooDaddy ment to say is IF the check valve doesn't get stuck or break it'll never go wrong!!!

the little nylon ball in my strainer seemed to get stuck alot for some reason???
 

Duane Oxley

Moon Unit
Joined
Oct 18, 2006
Messages
2,379
Location
Smyrna, GA.
Name
Duane Oxley
Hey, Danny...

The way I see it, that check valve (the only one in the system...) is located at the most convenient place, in terms of removal and inspection... right on the end of the chemical hose.

If it's stuck, it's due to a chemical residue, which could be the chemical used, or, interaction between chemicals used, if some are mixed or changed (as in alternating different types for different jobs).

Just take it off of the end of the hose, wash / flush it with clean water, and reinstall it.
 

Duane Oxley

Moon Unit
Joined
Oct 18, 2006
Messages
2,379
Location
Smyrna, GA.
Name
Duane Oxley
Conceivably, it could also be that the chemical is being mixed in the reservoir at too high a concentration. If that's the case, you could try cutting it in half and metering it at twice as high on the meter. That would result in the same end strength in the system, but have it diluted more at the valve...

.
 

Dolly Llama

Number 5
Joined
Oct 7, 2006
Messages
31,225
Location
North East Ohio
Name
Larry Capitoni
"the little nylon ball in my strainer seemed to get stuck alot for some reason???"

go to Homley Depot and steal a 5 gal paint stir stick so you can mix yore TIDE detergent better.

Or switch to liquid TIDE....


...L.T.A.
 

The Preacher

Member
Joined
Oct 13, 2006
Messages
3,401
i use Duane's liquid one step at 1/2 the rate with soft water!!!

what happens is the ball gets a grove in it and it sticks. i picked up a new one at the local hose/pressure washing shop, no problems since.
 
S

supaclean

Guest
That is such a sweet looking machine. I had the pleasure of working for a guy who ran one of Duane's other machines called the Sledgehammer. It was such a nice design and the heat was absolutely insane! Congrats!

Matt
 

RichardnTn

Member
Joined
Oct 18, 2006
Messages
447
Just a follow up on the install...used the machine...great piece of equipment...Too, I appreciate Duane calling 1 or 2 times a week to make sure all is well.
All I anticipate doing is buying a spare belt for pump and pump-out and a thermocouple... simple machine to work on...Richard R
 

Dolly Llama

Number 5
Joined
Oct 7, 2006
Messages
31,225
Location
North East Ohio
Name
Larry Capitoni
Have an extra motor to blower coupler on hand too, Rich

That way you'll have one on hand for when (not if) it breaks

What size and type is the coupler?

You should know that in case DOOwayne isn't around when you shred one.
Grainger stocks couplers.

My TM uses one like this.
(it's either a #8 or #9, can't remember which)

http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/wwg/pr ... ng+Inserts

..L.T.A.
 

RichardnTn

Member
Joined
Oct 18, 2006
Messages
447
Thanks Larry,
Never even thought about it but your right..will pick-up an extra at Graingers about 30 minutes North of me..thanks again, Richard R.
BTW, The link is good...same here...
 

floorguy

Supportive Member
Joined
Nov 7, 2006
Messages
6,948
Location
Utah
Name
Doug
yea i have yet to see the pics....they haven't shown up for a while...can you post them again??
 

hogjowl

Idiot™
Joined
Oct 7, 2006
Messages
48,665
Location
Prattville, Alabama
Larry:

Am I to understand that you have owned a direct coupled machine before and had problems with the coupler breaking?

What machine was it?
 

Dolly Llama

Number 5
Joined
Oct 7, 2006
Messages
31,225
Location
North East Ohio
Name
Larry Capitoni
admiralclean said:
Larry:

Am I to understand that you have owned a direct coupled machine before and had problems with the coupler breaking?

What machine was it?

Have owned 2 Powermatics over the last 11+ years, Marty.
They're direct coupled.
I wouldn't say I had "troubles" with them breaking.
The last one shredded at about 1500 hours.
Under a steady diet of 14+ HG
The one I'm currently running on has about 1200 hours on it.

My retired PM had well over 3000 hrs on a coupler before I retired it.
But I was only running 12 HG at the time.
(tired motor)

Andy up in Canada had problems with his.
Think he broke 3 in less than 700 hours.
Something had to be out of spec.

I've also "heard" of less than stellar coupler wear on some of the independent manufactured TMs.
Like every 500 to 700 hours needing a new coupler.

Coupler, like belts are a good item to have on hand so you don't have to spend time chasing one down

..L.T.A.
 

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