Lee Stockwell
FOJL
Take the plugs out before turning it over.
Prochem 405
- Thread starter SamIam
- Start date
Lee Stockwell
FOJL
And put those stupid covers in the back of the shop for when you sell it.
SamIam
Member
I did
SamIam
Member
It sat all night draining opened up they put water yesterday
Lee Stockwell
FOJL
Water will remain in at least one cylinder even if you drain it. When the piston comes up it has nowhere to go, thus take out all 4 spark plugs when cranking it over.
SamIam
Member
It's running
SamIam
Member
I hit it with my wife hair dryer in the spark plug holes I took the filters off blower and the lid off dump rank pulled air filter and sprayed card cleaner it took a couple of time but it's running burning off excess water
SamIam
Member
I also turned over with spark plugs out and shot brown gunk out spark plug holes
J
JS41035
Guest
SamIam
Member
There is still a problem with the pump switch, pump wont turn on unless heat exchanger is on. and there was blockage in the bypass deverter had to take out the allen screw clear the blockage.
When its working right the machine hits 240 and bypasses water to stay at 240 if you set the wand down it should bypass tell you clean again. With the blockage the water dosnt circulate and the temp gauge just sits tell the waters keyed then it screams up to 260 and auto shuts down.
Being able to operate without the heat exchanger keeps the machine around 200 and never shuts down. even though clearing that blockage is the best way to go so it automatically bypasses.
When its working right the machine hits 240 and bypasses water to stay at 240 if you set the wand down it should bypass tell you clean again. With the blockage the water dosnt circulate and the temp gauge just sits tell the waters keyed then it screams up to 260 and auto shuts down.
Being able to operate without the heat exchanger keeps the machine around 200 and never shuts down. even though clearing that blockage is the best way to go so it automatically bypasses.
J
JS41035
Guest
I think you have 2 separate problems.
When you say bypass diverter I assume your talking about the bypass manifold. That would be a brass manifold. Should have 2 ,3/4" fittings. One is a filter. The other houses the bypass orifice. If the bypass orifice is clogged the machin no longer trickles water back to the waterbox. If the pressure system isn't in that constant loop, the water temp at the sending unit no longer moves and cools down . Triggering the wand allows flow past that sending unit. The super hot formerly stagnant water will cause an instant temp spike. The high temp kill switch on the back of the exhaust heat exh can also be triggered. Prochem keeps the high temp water in a constant circle.This keeps the temp readings accurate and avoids spikes.
The pump problem is almost certainly the micro switch that is activated by the diverter linkage.
Replace the tip in the bypass manifold and get a new screen.
I have bypassed most of the electrical stuff on mine.
When you say bypass diverter I assume your talking about the bypass manifold. That would be a brass manifold. Should have 2 ,3/4" fittings. One is a filter. The other houses the bypass orifice. If the bypass orifice is clogged the machin no longer trickles water back to the waterbox. If the pressure system isn't in that constant loop, the water temp at the sending unit no longer moves and cools down . Triggering the wand allows flow past that sending unit. The super hot formerly stagnant water will cause an instant temp spike. The high temp kill switch on the back of the exhaust heat exh can also be triggered. Prochem keeps the high temp water in a constant circle.This keeps the temp readings accurate and avoids spikes.
The pump problem is almost certainly the micro switch that is activated by the diverter linkage.
Replace the tip in the bypass manifold and get a new screen.
I have bypassed most of the electrical stuff on mine.
SamIam
Member
definetly the bypass manifold tip thats clogged cleared it and works fine didnt think about replacing the screen before it thats a good idea.
I know the switch is a different problem will mention micro switch to my guy he's back toorrow get that replaced and a new screen It should be good to go.
I know the switch is a different problem will mention micro switch to my guy he's back toorrow get that replaced and a new screen It should be good to go.
Lee Stockwell
FOJL
The micro switch seldom fails.
Either the mechanical linkage that toggles it, or one of the two wires attached to it are the usual suspects.
Either the mechanical linkage that toggles it, or one of the two wires attached to it are the usual suspects.
SamIam
Member
Ya if I have it off the heat exchanger the pump is off even if the pump swithch on machine is on. when I flip the heat exchanger to on the pump kicks on but it doesnt always do it its random sometimes the pump goes on by the switch on the machine.
J
JS41035
Guest
The rod that activates the ex diverter has a small square plate in the middle. When you twist it to the on position it should push that plate against a small switch. The idea is ..if the diverter is set to heat exchanger the switch would be on,or the little button would be pressed . So it won't run without without that button pushed in heat exh mode. The water pump also has to be on. Keeps you from getting mixed up and running it with the pump off (water extraction ) while water is getting boiled by the exhaust heat exchanger.
If your linkage is sloppy or the switch is wearing out it won't make contact. A lot of times just wiggling the linkage will help. In a bind, you can use a small c clamp to keep the button pushed.
If your linkage is sloppy or the switch is wearing out it won't make contact. A lot of times just wiggling the linkage will help. In a bind, you can use a small c clamp to keep the button pushed.
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