Question..........

[Jim Martin]

If your wand valve is leaking....(Mine has just been giving me fits)..shouldn't the check valves stop it from dripping....

Even new check valves still drip....to me the check valves should stop the drips

or am I over thinking this ....what am I missing..........

 

[Nate The Great]

I don't know about your valve, but I do love your signature!!!

 

[hogjowl]

I dunno buddy, but I can tell you that my wand valve is brand new and my check valves still drip like a muther. I think it's the heat of these V's doing it.

 

[Scott Rogers]

fricken v jet check valves dont work

change out to t jets and get real and cheaper checkvalves

 

[Shawn Forsythe]

Check valves simply stop the down-tube or wand sol hose from slowly emptying through the jets after you release the valve. They won't do anything to stop a leaking valve.

Here's a tip: Do not hesitate one moment to fix a leaking valve. A leaking valve means the seals have eroded or failed. Once this happens, continuing to use the valve runs the risk of proceeding from a metal-to-"rubber" contact within the valve, to a metal-to-metal contact between the valve body and the actuating stem. Once the metal contacts the metal, you get a real friction erosion that effectively ruins the valve body. Once this occurs, subsequent kits will only last a scant short time, as the eroded metal literally grates on the new rubber seals. Hence seal failure begets seal failure, and the user wonders why his seals don't last. The only remedy then is to replace the whole valve, and learn from the experience. Always have a spare kit at the ready, and replace it at the first sign of seal failure. Do this, and the kits will last much longer, and so will the valve.

 

[hogjowl]

Great information for valve maintenance.

But it really doesn't address his problem. Cuz his check valves are gonna leak with or without a good valve.

And, what the heck is Rogers talking about?

 

[Jim Martin]

I rebuilt mine today and I got a spare for the truck......so I got that part covered......

 

[Able 1]

Mine is leaking bad too, and I have the check valves... Good question! I flipped the teflon seal and that helped for a while. With the WP valves has anyone noticed any greater valve life of the stainless over brass? How long would you think the seals/valve last?

Good info Shawn!

 

[Scott Rogers]

my stainless wp valve started leaking today. about a month old.

 

[Ron Lippold]

Jim It started today if the water at the wand is over 230 I get the drips so I just turn her down a little.

 

[Jim Martin]

sounding to me like someone needs to start concentrating on making tools that can keep up with our equipment.........

 

[Dolly Llama]

there's three different topics goin' on here



jets will dribble regardless of whether wand valve is working properly or not at high sol temps.
Once you get to a certain temp ATW, heat expansion of water in the wand plumbing (manifold and manifold supply line) forces solution out of the jets.
The higher the sol temp, the more it progresses from dribbles, to pee streams, then on up to a fine spray.
(you can use the ball valve on the sol line and it will still happen)


I recognized this the phenomenon soon after owning our first fire breather.
The only explanation I determined is super heated solution heat expansion in the wand plumbing when valve is closed.


From observations made of the progression from dribbles to enough pressure to atomize spray when at "spit, tearing sound and hiss " temps
(it was easy to see when we used 2 jets wands)
I'd speculate a check valve would need to be in the 50-75 psi to be effective at ultra temp ranges

lastly, I don't know of a check valve made yet for a Ti that works very well for very long regardless of temps

..L.T.A.

 

[boazcan]

Jim, are they dripping that much to matter. Mine have dripped a small amount forever. The hotter it gets the more it drips. I just turn the line off when crossing over large sections of hard surface. Other than that, not that big of deal.

I went through a few kits in the beginning and then scrapped it. I just work with it.

 

[Jim Martin]

slobbering like a ST Bernard...........

 

[hogjowl]

"No big deal" to YOU, Boz, is a big deal to some of us professionals.

I don't like having pee stream (thanks for the analogy, Larry) sized lines running from my jets as I move over to a new area. I can pause momentarily before moving over, and it will stop, but that takes time and time is money.

It's a pita and Greenbean needs to come up with a solution before we all leave him for Ken Harris.

 

[vincent]

Correct me if I'm wrong, but dont you just tighten the the little screw at the end of the check valve when it starts dripping. I do that and it stops. The wand however, I just replace the stem, done.

 

[Mikey P]

Try using a Greenhorny or Ti with out the valves on a hot machine.

Let go of the trigger and it continues to spray for 20 seconds or more.

 

[Jim Martin]

notice the Teflon washer/spacer......when you rebuild this the washer has a slight bevel on one side to seat the ball...you really have to look at it but it is there....Also if you leave the stainless washer in and double it up with the new one it puts a tad bit more pressure on the spring and helps it seat better.....

 

[hogjowl]

Let me know after you figure out which one, of their hundreds of o-rings, is the one we need.

Joe Brister has a nice solution to this problem. For those here who he will do business with, like Jim and Scott, contact him.

 

[Scott Rogers]

I have the bristor check valves and Greenies too. Neither of them work for long. Stanley has been using simple t-jet filter check vavles for years. they are much cheeper around 1.50 each and can be picked up locally.

I cant understand why manufacturers even use v-jets. t-jets are superior in every aspect. And are cheaper to boot.

 

[Shane T]

Scott, I always liked the T-jets as well but I don't think there is room for that type of assembly on a low profile wand.

 

[Scott Rogers]

thats another thing that errks me. LOL low profile wands that cant reach under a bed because the lower bend is so extreme it lifts the head off the floor :shock:

My stanley 4 jet could reach way further under a bed then my greenhorn or my westpack. and that stanley wand had been around for over 20 years. Go figure.

Makes me wonder if the manufactures that cater too us actually ever cleaned carpets before

 

[Shane T]

I have both and prefer the low profile wand.

 

[hogjowl]

Scott:

Thanks for explaining yourself. Took you long enough!

When you say you can get them locally, do you mean at your local distributer, or like a hardware or farm supply store?

 

[SRI Cleaning]

Check valves will only hold back a little bit of pressure. Once pressure climbs enough to push the spring open, it will open. But usually they can hold back the water just sitting in the line after the vavle if it is not leaking.

 

[megadisaster]

i just jb weld everything that leaks. its worked for me...try it.

 

[roro]

you can buy check valves for differing pressures.

these are the experts
http://www.spray.com/

roro

 

[Guest]

a little bit of hi temp lube prior to installing the o rings on the stem will increase the longevity of the o rings , thus reducing the leaking problem . . Try any interlink store.

Jim , surely you aren't just cramming that stem back in the valve without Hi temp lube are you ??

Do I need to put up a disclaimer since I am giving high performance advice ???

 

[Jim Martin]

hi temp lube is a no brainer .....

check valve drips was the real question.....but I think I may have this problem solved once and for all...will know by the beginning of next week...........when the parts come in

 

[Guest]

unless you have damaged the valve , that should take care of the problem . buy another valve and I guarantee the problem is solved .