sweendogg
Member
You'll have to teach me that trick.. I've never been able to to do that! :shock: The most important part is don't over lap your heat sets.
repair question
- Thread starter Bucey
- Start date
Jack May
That Kiwi
I thought we'd all done that as part of learning somewhat amus
The ones that get me are the cheap olefin carpets you find in rentals. Normally pushing the barrier trying to get a good bond coz it's crap carpet and zappo you have a smoulding dark piece
Thankfully, it almost always happens on the insert, not the body so it's a simple matter of re cutting the insert.
John
The ones that get me are the cheap olefin carpets you find in rentals. Normally pushing the barrier trying to get a good bond coz it's crap carpet and zappo you have a smoulding dark piece
Thankfully, it almost always happens on the insert, not the body so it's a simple matter of re cutting the insert.John
Jack May
That Kiwi
Welcome to the forum Ben.
I too hate the word 'patch' with a vengence as it carries hugely negative thoughts in a consumer's mind.
I usually use the terminology 'bonded insert' or repair etc.
Your pricing structure is interesting and I've not heard of that approach before. Obviously it works for you, but do you have a min charge, or is that a charge up add on type pricing structure in line with the original question?
If your client called out out to do a 2" x 2" repairs on its own, how would you charge for that? Likewise a 4" x 6" mark?
Cheers, John
I too hate the word 'patch' with a vengence as it carries hugely negative thoughts in a consumer's mind.
I usually use the terminology 'bonded insert' or repair etc.
Your pricing structure is interesting and I've not heard of that approach before. Obviously it works for you, but do you have a min charge, or is that a charge up add on type pricing structure in line with the original question?
If your client called out out to do a 2" x 2" repairs on its own, how would you charge for that? Likewise a 4" x 6" mark?
Cheers, John
John,
I always have a min of $85, so if a client only wants that one bonded insert it would be $85. Then if there was additional ones or they had some other service I follow the $2 rule. I am not sure how well that would work with the guys using the cool glide. I know the tape is much more expensive and it seems to take a bit more time with that iron. I have never been a fan of it, but some guys swear by it.
I always have a min of $85, so if a client only wants that one bonded insert it would be $85. Then if there was additional ones or they had some other service I follow the $2 rule. I am not sure how well that would work with the guys using the cool glide. I know the tape is much more expensive and it seems to take a bit more time with that iron. I have never been a fan of it, but some guys swear by it.
sweendogg
Member
I know what you mean Ben.. I have a hard time believing that a kool glide seam is just as strong as a well made hot iron seam where the entire width of the tape is set completely into the backing of the carpet.. not just heated sections. If I'm doing repairs with the kool glide, I'll use their thermal stick glue with my glue gun to attach both pieces first and seal the edges, then I'll heat the seam.. I always feel safer doing it this way.
Jack May
That Kiwi
sweendogg said:
I always do it this way.... doesn't everyone?
I use the KoolSticks to seal edges and I also lay down extra glue if I happen to have a part of teh seam on an area with less glue. I then bed the donor piece into that glue while hot and try and hit it with the KoolGlide before it totally cools. Doing it that way, I find I get awesome bonding all over my entire repair.
If the repair is bigger than what will safely fit on the width of the tape, I then cut the tape to have the centre going around the perimeter of the entire insert.
Cost to me is incidental. There is no way I could do the level and tpye of repairs that I do without a KG, so the slightly higher tape cost is irrelevent to me. Realistically, how much tape do you use for a job? a foot? it works out pretty minor any true cost differences.
Now as an installer, that would add up really quickly. But in repair work, not so much.
I have a min $80, but the majority of my repairs are in the $135-180 range. I think I said it earlier, or in the recent Pattern Mismatch thread, I aim for $100/hour.
Great to have your input Ben. For small repairs where it's not easily lifted back to access the backing, how do you bond a small section?
John
John.. I will usually bond small insterts by adding my glue to my tape before it put it under the carpet and then just check after it is cool to make sure the bond is tight then bond the instert with my iron. I am not completely against the kool glide either. I just haven't found it useful for my general repairs. I was tought old school so I just find it easier to use a traditional iron. Guess it is just a matter of preferance. I think both methods are very effective if done properly. "Properly" being the key word!
S
sam miller
Guest
I think this answers my question! does a kool glide seam set as strong and faster then a regular iron.
were You have to hold a seam for 5 min so you get no gapping on a reinstalled flood???
It would be nice to speed up that process.
were You have to hold a seam for 5 min so you get no gapping on a reinstalled flood???
It would be nice to speed up that process.
I've used hot iron and wet rags/irons for over 20 years, but I just talked with a friend that uses the kool glide and he said he was powerstretching away from a seam in less than 5 minutes, is that true guys? BTW I can't believe cookie cutters are still aroundsam miller said:
idreadnought
Supportive Member
wow, really old thread. I was reading one guy up there that sounded pretty smart getting templates from scrap metal. Heck sounded like something I do. Oh wait that was me that said it. Almost a year ago.
Jack May
That Kiwi
A Seamer Down Now will allow you to stretch off ANY tape in a very short period. Their add says 20 seconds not 20 minutes!
I dont do installation, only repairs, but I find it invaluable when doing the likes of pattern mis match correction.
John
I dont do installation, only repairs, but I find it invaluable when doing the likes of pattern mis match correction.
John
S
sam miller
Guest
That seamer down looks cool
http://www.procarpettools.com/Osc/index.php?cPath=1
I'm wondering would a waterclaw attached to a truckmount maybe the spotter sized one do the same thing??? anything to dry the seam faster would get you movin the problem I have is I do about 4 of these a year so its kinda expensive just for that.
http://www.procarpettools.com/Osc/index.php?cPath=1
I'm wondering would a waterclaw attached to a truckmount maybe the spotter sized one do the same thing??? anything to dry the seam faster would get you movin the problem I have is I do about 4 of these a year so its kinda expensive just for that.
steve g
Member
idreadnought said:
why use templates?? my kid can cut out any shape they want, a funky star if they want. I just put tape on the back of the piece taken out, cut the tape to the same outline as the piece its stuck to. then I peel the same off and put it on the back of the new donor piece, cut the carpet to the outline of the tape, DONE. I only suggest doing a repair if I am confident I can make it look good, some carpets and in some cases the repair isn't going to look good. as to price I simply guess how long its going to take and charge $150/hr to do it. if its a quick repair I just throw out 40/50 etc.
Jack May
That Kiwi
Bill, I'm not sure on pricing, (nothing sent to New Zealand is cheap!!) but when I bought mine a number of years backI felt they were very reasonable.
I usually leave it on the spot the same length of time as the iron, so it moves up when the iron moves. I dont find it slows me down, biggest issue I have with it is the noise factor.
It has a number of other benefits to me as well due to the nature of my type of work. Minimising peaking, quickly cooling tape so that I dont double heat small sections and cause other damage when doing repairs, strengthens the bond etc
4 times, a year... I agree hardly worth it.
Sam, it'd probably help, as to if it'd do hte same job as well, who knows? but honestly, unless you were doing clenaing as well, you'd never set up the truckmount to do that on it's own. and unless the price has hiked heaps in the past 2-3 years, I'd say you'd quickly recover it's cost out of labour/gas saved.
I don't use templates either, I'm a BIG beleiver in free hand cutting between existing rows in the product.
John
I usually leave it on the spot the same length of time as the iron, so it moves up when the iron moves. I dont find it slows me down, biggest issue I have with it is the noise factor.
It has a number of other benefits to me as well due to the nature of my type of work. Minimising peaking, quickly cooling tape so that I dont double heat small sections and cause other damage when doing repairs, strengthens the bond etc
4 times, a year... I agree hardly worth it.
Sam, it'd probably help, as to if it'd do hte same job as well, who knows? but honestly, unless you were doing clenaing as well, you'd never set up the truckmount to do that on it's own. and unless the price has hiked heaps in the past 2-3 years, I'd say you'd quickly recover it's cost out of labour/gas saved.
I don't use templates either, I'm a BIG beleiver in free hand cutting between existing rows in the product.
John
caleb211
Member
cool vac
