Mikey P
Administrator
Has anyone used either?
Rhino or Line-X to coat your wash pits?
- Thread starter Mikey P
- Start date
hogjowl
Idiot™
What's wrong with regular deodorant?
Doug D
Supportive Member
rhyde
Member
nope never have just epoxy you don't need to do anything you can wash on uncoated concreet
Mikey P
Administrator
The partner wants to line it to keep seepage non existent.
He also wants to coat the channel the Sump will sit in.
I doubt any kind of coating epoxy or rubber will last long in there.
He also wants to coat the channel the Sump will sit in.
I doubt any kind of coating epoxy or rubber will last long in there.
Walt
Member
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Mike,
I did a pit with epoxy a few years back. They needed a containment area for leaky drums of coolant and cutting oil at a giant injection moulding plant. It held up for years of taking the drums in and out - no chipping. I never saw it with out standing fluid of some sort.
You just need the right kind.
I did a pit with epoxy a few years back. They needed a containment area for leaky drums of coolant and cutting oil at a giant injection moulding plant. It held up for years of taking the drums in and out - no chipping. I never saw it with out standing fluid of some sort.
You just need the right kind.
Mikey P
Administrator
and the right kind is...?
Walt
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HD 3000 sold by multiclean (http://multi-clean.com/concrete.html). I don't think they manufacture the product themselves, so I am hesitant to recommend it - in case it was reformulated - I haven't done epoxy work in 5 years so it's possible. We also used it in a butcher shop (sorry), and they would roll heavy carts over the top and would wash it down with a hose every night. It never chipped. I was impressed with the product after I left a 5 inches in a bucket and it hardened completely. I'm sure you can find a comparable or superior product online.
Rob Lyon
Member
Line-X with out a doubt, It is a much better product!
Mikey P
Administrator
Any possibility of Line X and color transfer?
Walt
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Concrete is highly alkaline - will it stick over the long run?
Rob Lyon
Member
Mikey, I doubt it, but e-mail the manufacturer to be sure
vincent
Member
I don't know if this relates, but I had line-x installed in my new pickup. Black is the color and I asked about numerous things and color transfer was one of them.
No color transfer should happen no matter what chems come in contact with the liner.
I would go with line-x. Only problem is, is the pit portable, cause I don't think there are line-x dealers that travel to install their product. If they have to come to you, you might be sol.
No color transfer should happen no matter what chems come in contact with the liner.
I would go with line-x. Only problem is, is the pit portable, cause I don't think there are line-x dealers that travel to install their product. If they have to come to you, you might be sol.
Mikey P
Administrator
How long do you think a penetrative sealer would last in that environment?
John Watson
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I believe the Bryan is well versed in this topic, He will probobly swing by here if he gets bored with his weekend honeydo list or get back in town or by Monday sometimes.
The Great Oz
Member
Our wash floor and drain trench were just untreated concrete for 35 years of heavy use. Unless you're going to acid soak rugs or use some pretty caustic alkalines you shouldn't need to coat your floor or trench.
After moving a large piece of equipment we found a couple large cracks in the drain trench that were caused by building settling. I decided that either Line-X or Rhinolining would do the best job of sealing and be impervious to anything that would go down that drain. Line-X in our area would not work on-location, so we had it coated with Rhino. Four years and it has been perfect; I would recommend polymer coating for this purpose.
The wash floor also had enough cement washed away to expose the aggregate to the point of losing the rock. We were going to either skim coat it with a modified cement product or knock the floor out and pour a new one, but the Rhino guys said they could coat the floor as well, and promised it wouldn't be slippery as they had coated the decks of several commercial fishing boats. The applicators didn't do a good enough job of cleaning deteregent residue off of the floor, as we've had a few bubbles. That's when we found out Rhino doesn't stand behind their applications on anything but truck beds. We have had to cut the bubbles open, clean and dry the floor under, and glue the material back to the floor in five or six spots. Other than that, 4 years of use have had little effect on the floor. It was slippery as ice when new though, and I had to find a topcoating to give it a little grip so guys could work without getting hurt.
Also, after years of epoxy coating the underside of our rug washer and having every bit of epoxy fall off and have to recoat every two to three years, we coated the underside with Herculiner. No more problems.
Check with the material manufacturer to see how long they recommend a new floor cure and what the moisture level should be before applying anything. Go with Line-X if you're going to coat the wash floor. Get the applicating company to put their promises in writing.
After moving a large piece of equipment we found a couple large cracks in the drain trench that were caused by building settling. I decided that either Line-X or Rhinolining would do the best job of sealing and be impervious to anything that would go down that drain. Line-X in our area would not work on-location, so we had it coated with Rhino. Four years and it has been perfect; I would recommend polymer coating for this purpose.
The wash floor also had enough cement washed away to expose the aggregate to the point of losing the rock. We were going to either skim coat it with a modified cement product or knock the floor out and pour a new one, but the Rhino guys said they could coat the floor as well, and promised it wouldn't be slippery as they had coated the decks of several commercial fishing boats. The applicators didn't do a good enough job of cleaning deteregent residue off of the floor, as we've had a few bubbles. That's when we found out Rhino doesn't stand behind their applications on anything but truck beds. We have had to cut the bubbles open, clean and dry the floor under, and glue the material back to the floor in five or six spots. Other than that, 4 years of use have had little effect on the floor. It was slippery as ice when new though, and I had to find a topcoating to give it a little grip so guys could work without getting hurt.
Also, after years of epoxy coating the underside of our rug washer and having every bit of epoxy fall off and have to recoat every two to three years, we coated the underside with Herculiner. No more problems.
Check with the material manufacturer to see how long they recommend a new floor cure and what the moisture level should be before applying anything. Go with Line-X if you're going to coat the wash floor. Get the applicating company to put their promises in writing.
Jimbo
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I'm really surprised you would need to ask:
[size=200[size=7]http://amazinggaragefloors.com[/size][/size]/][/size]
[size=200[size=7]http://amazinggaragefloors.com[/size][/size]/][/size]
Shawn Forsythe
RIP
Putting something so impermeable as a thick polyurethane "sheet" or 'pan" over a wide expanse on concrete creates some particularly important considerations. The concrete itself is a moisture-dependent mechanism. The porosity of the slab, as a function of its design and placement, as well as the presence and integrity of the vapor-retarder under the slab, all has an effect on topical moisture. In addition, the surface profile (texture) and the building environment also play a role in the moisture vapor emission. All concrete will have a constituent vapor emission for the life of the slab. The acceptability of the polyurethane lining will be highly dependent upon the compatibility of the slab/pit, and the planning put forth when the pit is designed. You may also want to consult with the manufacturer of the lining product so as to formulate the right concrete mix and texture that will produce acceptable surface conditions, such as pH, etc.
Mikey P
Administrator
thanks
sweendogg
Member
Rather than a sprayed on Liner... Have you considered a rasised rubber tile floor?
http://www.rbrubber.com/index.html?/drain_thru.html
I know this is a popular option among some rug cleaners. This provides the desired barrior between the concrete and the rugs that you have hinted at. There is also the added benefit that the right tile design would allow flow underneath the rug and thus the soils and dirt have the potential to drain away from the rug during the cleaning process..
Just a thought, I think there might be some better discussion about this option over on the hub.
http://www.rbrubber.com/index.html?/drain_thru.html
I know this is a popular option among some rug cleaners. This provides the desired barrior between the concrete and the rugs that you have hinted at. There is also the added benefit that the right tile design would allow flow underneath the rug and thus the soils and dirt have the potential to drain away from the rug during the cleaning process..
Just a thought, I think there might be some better discussion about this option over on the hub.
