And same goes for a Water Claw, or WaterVac or Aquahelix or DryEaz to remove pet pee, standing water and other subsurface liquid based nastiness too.
Rotovac cfx ranger and 360i (the ultimate Portable discussion)
- Thread starter Sky
- Start date
Goomer
Member
Plug into different rooms/ walls... That's all she wrote folks...
There's a litle more to the though process than that.
Honestly mate I'm not super human. Well organised yes but not super human. I have just sat down over many lonely nights and using the interwebz worked out what I can do to make me a system that works. I have made mistakes. I have a Sebo mini CRB and it's just not powerful enough to cut it full time. Set me back $800 AU.Not everyone is a superhuman like Grant, and I am not debating the merits of a Rv with a brush head.
To the average newbie with zero experience, I think it will be more trouble than not, and not just the Rv, but the entire setup.
I love my Oreck......
But the Rotovac has been a boon for my business. In a world that relies on being competitive it equalises a very large investment in back end hardware.
A mount worth $30k USD or about $45K AUD will only clean faster than me. It won't deliver a result I can't. So that's good. That's really compelling when you have the need for a good clean with tough access.
It's important @Sky serve the porty niche well. And with the choice of a tank system or a fully automatic setup they can have a taste of truckmount flexibility and continuous productivity. Just read the job's requirements and use the appropriate setup. There is no hiding from the learning that needs be done. But that's where we can help.
@Sky .
Pre-spray discussions are done to death and not generally taken seriously. Which is actually a pisser because it's a critical chemical interface to the cleaning process and a shit one will cause you bad performance, resoling and colour loss. Not good at all. Really bad for business.
Get a good one.
I have no brand allegiance but Mikey's Board has a number of terrific sponsors who sell alkaline enzyme pre-spray powder concentrates, which is what I recommend you buy. A HF will save you valuable time and put your chemicals down with the pressure from your system. So much better than continuous pumping of a plastic sprayer - which you still need from time to time sadly.
A number of people here like @Goomer are very clever people. If we seem to offer contrary advice it's because our experiences have varied. Not because either of use are dicking with you.
@Desk Jockey is a very funny dude with a dry sense of humour. Must be Australian. He is also pretty clever and now and again he bothers to say something like he has here. But mostly he dribbles shit.
There are countless other good elves.
But not @hogjowl , he's a bastard....
Desk Jockey
Member
That's because you don't need my help. Plenty of good advice from others.
You do need my shit, not enough of that being doled out for ya'll!
Cleanworks
Moderator
There comes a point where you have spent as much money on a portable system as you could have on an entry level truck mount. I just sold a little TM to a friend who had been up to now using portables only. He can't believe the power and simplicity compared to what he has been doing. He had to go out and buy a glide for the wand because the concept of enough suction to stick the wand to the carpet was foreign to him. Take a good look at how much you are spending on machines, tools, heaters, generators, etc and compare it to a $15,000 TM and see how much further you may be ahead
Mikey P
Administrator
If your desired client base really is a portable market than consider keeping the CFX set up and getting a traditional porty as well.
Both systems have their need and a back up is crucial
Both systems have their need and a back up is crucial
Here... Here...
What are you going to do with only 1 machine of any type if there is a failure? Provision for faults. A spare system is gold.
steve_64
Member
- Joined
- Aug 11, 2012
- Messages
- 13,371
A buffer and bonnets has got me out oof a couple issues.
steve_64
Member
- Joined
- Aug 11, 2012
- Messages
- 13,371
Plug in the most amps in the kitchen, it has the strongest circuits due to the appliances. Laundry rooms and bathrooms too usually.
Papa John
Lifetime Supportive Member
Three tasks slow down the porty operator:
1) having to move the setup to complete the job
2) having to manage multiple cords and hoses.
3) the bucket brigade on big jobs.-- If the job is small, then the bucket is better then dealing with the extra hoses.
I prefer to set up only once if possible-- thats why I prefer a porty that can use 50-75ft. 2 vac inch hose, duel 3 stage vacs in parallel. I only use the auto dump/fill on larger jobs.
If you get a better porty, then you can use a Zipper to eliminate one more cord when you don't need the 360BH and you will move the porty less often due to longer hoses.
1) having to move the setup to complete the job
2) having to manage multiple cords and hoses.
3) the bucket brigade on big jobs.-- If the job is small, then the bucket is better then dealing with the extra hoses.
I prefer to set up only once if possible-- thats why I prefer a porty that can use 50-75ft. 2 vac inch hose, duel 3 stage vacs in parallel. I only use the auto dump/fill on larger jobs.
If you get a better porty, then you can use a Zipper to eliminate one more cord when you don't need the 360BH and you will move the porty less often due to longer hoses.
Last edited:
Goomer
Member
Speaking of the extra RV cord with a porty, I was thinking that when I pickup a RV to splice in an outlet and mount it on my porty switch plate and make a RV specific vac hose that an electric cord can be wrapped with, kind of like a hide-a-hose, but on the outside.
Wondering if it would be worth the effort by keeping the cord out of the way and not having to reposition the plug so often when doing different areas.
Papa John
Lifetime Supportive Member
Am I to understand that you want to bundle a vacuum hose and electric cord together so that you move both as one and that 3 electical cords would basically come from porty?? That might work if you can find 3 different circuits within reach of the porty.. but sometimes cords have to go on opposite sides of the working radius of the porty.
Goomer
Member
I'm talking about splicing into the lower amp drawing cord (1 vac-no APO) inside the compartment and ruining a lead to an outlet on the machine switch pannel.
Machine would still run on 2 cords/circuits.
The vac, solution and RV power cord would all run back to the machine, stay out of the way, and the RV power would not need to be moved to different outlets during a job.
Desk Jockey
Member
Make sure its a nice home when you trot that out. We clean up after fire and smoke if you wouldn't mind giving them my card.
I'd much appreciate it.
I'd much appreciate it.
Mikey P
Administrator
Goomer
Member
Make sure its a nice home when you trot that out. We clean up after fire and smoke if you wouldn't mind giving them my card.
I'd much appreciate it.
It's only adding 4+ amps to that cord which is only running one vac.
Papa John
Lifetime Supportive Member
Might be worth a try Goomer if you think your porty can handle the amp draw...
I envy you rural guys.. just too afraid/lazy to start over in different area.
I envy you rural guys.. just too afraid/lazy to start over in different area.
Goomer
Member
I think it may be worth trying.
I am sure you know all too well how important cord and hose management can be to a porty hack, and how even minor tweaks can make a big difference.
I'd rub one out to my 370 if I had one.
You puzzies have it easy.
Trust me, it's not all by choice.
I can't change my market.
Goomer
Member
It might be.
The important thing to do would be to use good heavy wire and safely wire it to a solidly mounted female plug of some type.
No skimping with this.
Gotta do it right and check to see if any wires are hot during trails.
With an 11-13 amp draw from a typical 3-stage on that circuit already, adding another 4amps, although cutting it close, may hold on enough 15amp circuits to not make it a pain in the ass.
That's the key right there.
It's failure rate on a 15amp circuit will make or break the idea to me, especially at the moment the RV demands a starting load.
Yes....All this to only simplify the management of one fooking cord.
Porty hack OCD at it's worst.
Papa John
Lifetime Supportive Member
Goomer, be sure the RE only draws 4 amps-- looks like they draw more then 4 amps.
older 360 may have only been 4 amps but I think newer versions with bigger motor draw more the 4amp-
older 360 may have only been 4 amps but I think newer versions with bigger motor draw more the 4amp-
Old Coastie
Supportive Member
The problem with pushing the load is the lights that share that circuit.
Desk Jockey
Member
Run a spider box to the 220 dryer out. Just have different prong adapters for the different setups.
Then your only problem would be if they have a gas dryer & stove.
Then your only problem would be if they have a gas dryer & stove.
Lee Stockwell
FOJL
I'm sure customers LOVE you moving their dryer or range?
Desk Jockey
Member
About as much as seeing enter there house a portable and 6 or eight cords. That meter will spin faster than a Cessna.
Desk Jockey
Member
Ours would shit...then would we would have to clean that up for free.
Cleanworks
Moderator
I think it should work. Your amp draw will be low enough when you have all the hoses connected.
Cleanworks
Moderator
Tilt the RV back when starting, then lower it onto the carpet.
Cleanworks
Moderator
That's what happens when you have shitty customers to begin with.Ours would shit...then would we would have to clean that up for free.
