S500 & Air Scrubbers on every job?

[tmdry]

I was told that the S500 now says that restorers must place an air scrubber on each dry out regardless if it's cat 1-3. Does anyone have a scanned pdf that they can send me or wouldn't mind scanning it and sending it to me. Air scrubbers are usually one of those things that we sometimes have issues with adjusters not paying, they say they'll will only pay for it if it's a mold job (regardless of the S500 saying cat 2-3 in the 2006 edition). I would rather have a scanned pdf from the S500 reference which I would send it in with my forms and drying records to try to eliminate some of these "red flags".

Thanks,
Bill

 

[tmdry]

I am including a copy of this article to all my claims along w/ our drying documents, work authorizations, etc. So far haven't had any problems, thought it may help some out there. Some adjusters might say they only pay for an air scrubber if it's a CAT 3 or mold job, I just include this article along w/ my paperwork before they try to say anything.

http://www.abatement.com/pdf/why-insurers-should-approve-portable-air-scrubbers.pdf

 

[dealtimeman]

Was looking for some thing like this just the other day. I use a air scrubbers on all jobs for my own protection.

 

[Jerry]

BTW what is the standard going rate for a airscrubber? I have heard anywhere from $52.00-89.00 per day, per scrubber. I am NW Iowa, SE South Dakota.
Thanks!

 

[kmdineen]

I was told that the S500 now says that restorers must place an air scrubber on each dry out regardless if it's cat 1-3. Does anyone have a scanned pdf that they can send me or wouldn't mind scanning it and sending it to me. Air scrubbers are usually one of those things that we sometimes have issues with adjusters not paying, they say they'll will only pay for it if it's a mold job (regardless of the S500 saying cat 2-3 in the 2006 edition). I would rather have a scanned pdf from the S500 reference which I would send it in with my forms and drying records to try to eliminate some of these "red flags".

Thanks,
Bill

No, the S-500 (third edition) 2006, Approved National Standard does NOT state that restores MUST place an air scrubber on each dry out.
In chapter 14, Structural Restoration Outline, under Category 1 Water:
Page 231, 1.2
Restorers CAN install one or more air filtration devices or AFDs (scrubbers), depending on the AFD's size and obstructions within the structure. AFDs provide additional airflow, while simultaneously removing aerosolized soils or contaminants from the air within a room. Restorers should consider repositioning AFDs on each monitoring trip.

Page 51, 12.1.20 and page 54 12.2.3 also talk about the use of AFDs.

However, the S-500 defines Shall, Should, Recommend, May and Can differently.
Can: when the term can is used in this document, it signifies an ability or possibility open to a user of the document, and it means that a referenced practice or procedure is possible or capable of application, but is not a component of the accepted "standard of care" to be followed.

You would have to justify why an AFD was placed on each job to the satisfaction of the adjuster.

 

[Desk Jockey]

We put one on every job, most pay it. Others pay after some discussion a few refuse to pay it and we absorb it.

 

[dealtimeman]

As stated above we run one on every job regardless, most of the time we get paid on it. All the other time it is just a line item for the adjuster to "adjust" and make it look like he or she did something.

I have only had one job were I was Particularly upset that we were not paid on an afd.

I believe if you cut walls or even remove baseboards you should definitely have an air scrubber on the job prior to commencement of demo regardless of the level of demo it might be.

 

[dealtimeman]

As stated above we run one on every job regardless, most of the time we get paid on it. All the other time it is just a line item for the adjuster to "adjust" and make it look like he or she did something.

I have only had one job were I was Particularly upset that we were not paid on an afd.

I believe if you cut walls or even remove baseboards you should definitely have an air scrubber on the job prior to commencement of demo regardless of the level of demo it might be.


As always it is better to Cover your a$$. Air scrubbers don't cost that much and are simple to use and maintain on every job. Also makes the final clean alot easier and faster to perform.

 

[Desk Jockey]

Speaking of cutting walls, if you do remove drywall frequently this little saw is awesome.

We bought one but since it works so well the guys are fighting over it. Looks like I’m going to have to get a couple more.

Milwaukee M-12 Cordless Hack Saw
Jeremy Reets recommends it and he is right, it’s a very handy tool to have when removing drywall. I think we paid around $200.00 for it. It comes with 2-12V batteries and a charger, variable speed so you can squeeze it lightly to get it started, then once in trigger it completely.

It just makes cutting fast and easy, plus it leaves you with nice clean cuts. With the blade in facing the opposite direction the shape of the tool won’t allow you to cut beyond the depth of the drywall. No accidental cuts into electrical or pipes.
You will need to occasionally blow off the drywall dust and oil the blade holder.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=H9PSZH8h ... =endscreen

 

[dealtimeman]

Speaking of cutting walls, if you do remove drywall frequently this little saw is awesome.

We bought one but since it works so well the guys are fighting over it. Looks like I’m going to have to get a couple more.

Milwaukee M-12 Cordless Hack Saw
Jeremy Reets recommends it and he is right, it’s a very handy tool to have when removing drywall. I think we paid around $200.00 for it. It comes with 2-12V batteries and a charger, variable speed so you can squeeze it lightly to get it started, then once in trigger it completely.

It just makes cutting fast and easy, plus it leaves you with nice clean cuts. With the blade in facing the opposite direction the shape of the tool won’t allow you to cut beyond the depth of the drywall. No accidental cuts into electrical or pipes.
You will need to occasionally blow off the drywall dust and oil the blade holder.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=H9PSZH8h ... =endscreen

We have been using those for about two years now the larger battery as shown works far better that batteries that originally came with them. Big fan of all the m-12 tools as we have the inspection camera impact drills and reg drills.

 

[Connor]

Speaking of cutting walls, if you do remove drywall frequently this little saw is awesome.

We bought one but since it works so well the guys are fighting over it. Looks like I’m going to have to get a couple more.

Milwaukee M-12 Cordless Hack Saw

I think that is the M18, Reechard. Not the M12. The M12 has a round battery.


See if you can find some of these.

Keeps your guys from nicking the plumbing or electrical. It lets you go at it without having to worry.

I think Milwaukee is going to have their own brand of these kind of blades out soon, too.

 

[Padden McFadden]

Bill,
Just spray a little problem b gone , and be done with it.

 

[Dolly Llama]

The M12 has a round battery.

they make a larger/more amp hours 12vt too, Chris.

I have a couple of their M12 tools
Drill, saw, inspection/scope thingie

The tools are "OK". but their batteries are JUNK (at least the smaller round ones)
So far the larger aH battery is holding up, but four of the half dozen round ones wouldn't take a charge after just a handful of charge cycles .

The Milwaukee rep I talked to a couple years ago said "he knew" and they were working on fixing the M12 battery problem ..as of a year ago they hadn't from "my" experience .
and I'll probably never buy another Milwaukee tool.
they're not "your daddy's Milwaukee tool" anymore .
They're cheap Chinese tools commanding a "professional" tool price simply cause of the name and what they "used" to be

DeWalt batteries are still the king of hill for longevity and life cycles , as well as their overall tool line
Bosch is second overall with a couple tools that as good or better than DeWalt ..like their jig saw..it's the best on the planet



we now return you to your regularly scheduled airscrUbber program.....
that I don't know sheeit about


..L.T.A.

 

[steve g]

what I don't get is how you guys keep from cutting much more than .5" through the drywall, I don't see how this saw would be any different than a regular sawsall am I missing something??

 

[Ed]

We use the Ryobi corded version of this saw. It is fantastic for cutting drywall. Wore 2 of them out during the hurricane/floods this year. $99 each at HD.

 

[Dolly Llama]

I don't see how this saw would be any different than a regular sawsall am I missing something??

smaller/lighter makes it more agile for light demo (drywall)
bring in the sawsall for heavy demo...floors, studs, etc


The Ryobi is one of the best value tools made .
Some of them will hold up to "real" contractor use.
Certainly the best in the "budget" power tools category like;
Black & Decker, Skill, Porter Cable (the newer introduced stuff) Craftsman , which is private labeled Ryobi BTW
and Rigid...which are JUNK for the money. ('cept for their hi-end shopvacs..which are the best)


..L.T.A.

 

[dealtimeman]

Actually forgot to mention, when we have power available we opt to use a rotozip as it is much fast and can be set for correct depth. If you don't have a rotozip I suggest getting one and you will see how much time you have been wasting.

 

[FredC]

do you guys really find these zips/saws better/more efficient than a good ol knife? I never have.


especially the rotozip...lots of dust and slow

snap a line...two quick slices....remove drywall....YMMV

 

[Dolly Llama]

do you guys really find these zips/saws better/more efficient than a good ol knife? I never have.


especially the rotozip...lots of dust and slow

not the rotozip, cause it takes more skill (slower) to cut long straight lines .
It's greatest virtue is small detail cuts like outlets , light cans, etc

I personally prefer a power tool (sawsall type) over a razor knife for cutting long sections of drywall


.L.T.A.

 

[Desk Jockey]

Fred they are much faster than the knife. Being lightweight and fast just makes removal so much easier.

Michael isn't the rotozip messy? I always thought those things threw shit everywhere.

 

[Ed]

Messy and as Larry said, hard to cut a straight line with them. I ran out and bought a couple of the roto zips a few years ago and left a tech to cut several hundred linear ft. of drywall and FRP board. I returned and almost had a stroke! Looked like a drunk monkey had been running it. I unloaded on the tech and he dared me to cut a straight line with it. Determined to show him why I was the BOSS,....I did a worse job than he did. They've been sitting on my shelf ever since. I wish I would have known you liked them Michael, I'd of given them to you when you were up here.

 

[Desk Jockey]

Looked like a drunk monkey had been running it.

That's funny Ed, I like the tech challenging you to cut one straight.

 

[Ed]

Yeah, I ate crow on that one.

 

[Desk Jockey]

I talk so much trash with my supervisors and leads they love to point out when I'm wrong.
Which is usually a couple of times a day. :mrgreen:

 

[dealtimeman]

The drywall specific one is better than the original in my opinion.

If we are just cutting a few feet or one wall we will use a knife but several rooms or a complete structure nothing beats the rotozip ease of use.

There is a learning curve but once you get it down, your good. Removing Sheetrock from a whole house even with a saws all is bisatch. I don't get too tired running the rotozip.

It does make alot of dust but the speed of cutting along with using the depth gaurd (set depth to not cut wires) make it the go to tool for large areas.