lust1kiddo
Supportive Member
I have a custy that actually has a REAL one..most are microfiber. I have only cleaned leather etc..she said there are some stains etc..any one have tips?
Thanks,
Jarred
:roll:
Thanks,
Jarred
:roll:
suede couch cleaning
- Thread starter lust1kiddo
- Start date
lust1kiddo said:
The real ones are the nubuck, another name is velvet suede; it’s nap from the grain side versus suede, nap from the flesh side of the leather.
Different in the cleaning is the tools used; nubuck used nubuck brush and suede used the suede brush for the longer nap.
Another tool is the eraser; nubuck uses the leather eraser while suede uses the obvious suede eraser.
All the rest of the products used for general cleaning and specific cleaning are all the same.
Except when it comes to the non-stick protection; where the nubuck uses the silky-feel while the suede uses the waxy-feel.
Most of these nappy leathers are absorbent; so body grease is one common stain that requires a pH 2.2 degreaser.
As nubuck or suede is pH sensitive, all water based products used has to be between the pH ranges of 3 to 5.
Hydration and fatliquor replenish is another consideration to return the leather to its original softness or suppleness; with a "finger writting effect".
Pictures show the before and after “Leather-Safe” cleaning; it was without any coloring, see how the color comes alive with leather rejuvenating (hydrating and fatliquor replenishing) it!
#1 before
#2 after
Roger Koh
info@leatherdoctor.com
Jimbo
Member
- Joined
- Oct 7, 2006
- Messages
- 2,197
Nice Work, Roger!...always very impressive!
lust1kiddo
Supportive Member
Roger...that looks amazing. So I do have PH sensative solutions..are you saying that i can just HWE the couch using them? then after drying use the replensihing solution? If so which ones? I dont have a facility to take it off site.
Jarrred, don't even think about running the CMX-20 over the cushions. !gotcha!
I would strongly suggest more consultation with Roger before tackling your job.
Then follow his instructions.
Post photos so he can advise.
Shorty.
I would strongly suggest more consultation with Roger before tackling your job.
Then follow his instructions.
Post photos so he can advise.
Shorty.
lust1kiddo
Supportive Member
Absolutely..first off, I dont even know what a CMX 20 is..lol. I was thinking a 6" ryobe hand buffer with a microfiber pad.
actually has a REAL one..most are microfiber.
Real ones are either Nubuck or Suede; need to know which set of tools to match.
she said there are some stains etc
Need to know if she knows what causes the stain; otherwise pictures of the location and close-up of color and shape will help identify it, it is to be matched with a specialty solution to the problem.
So I do have PH sensative solutions.
Need to know actual pH value of such solution (preferably not the buffered type).
Will also need to know its purpose of design for cleaning strength – a preparatory cleaner, a super cleaner, a strong cleaner or a general all purpose basic cleaner.
are you saying that i can just HWE the couch using them
I don’t ever mention about using HWE, leathers of all types and kinds are recommended to be clean at room temperature; although we understand the cleaning power of heat at every increment of 18 degrees. But, have to be reminded that leather has its “temperature shrinkage” tolerance. Heat will cause the original fatliquor to vaporize excessively and when dry will be stiffer than before cleaning. More fatliquor-in-a-bottle is required for compensating this excessive loss of original fatliquor.
then after drying use the replensihing solution? If so which ones?
It all comes in the system kit for your specific stain removal requirement, which is paramount in every cleaning project; is to take care of the stain first, the rest is easy and straight forward – don’t have to think about it until you show some pictures.
I dont have a facility to take it off site.
I have done on-site too, not a big problem; just need cleaning up after the nap rejuvenating for the “finger writing effect” when crispy dry.
Just like rug cleaning, will require inspection, groomimg, etc after crispy dry; a return trip is a must!
I was thinking a 6" ryobe hand buffer with a microfiber pad.
This I have thought off once upon a time, to mechanize the process; today what’s in the kit I used with better result.
Other tools like compressed air and a vacuum system for both wet and dry helps to compliment the kit is used with common sense.
Still waiting for pictures, as mentioned by Shorty before going into details…if you wish.
Roger Koh
info@leatherdoctor.com
Real ones are either Nubuck or Suede; need to know which set of tools to match.
she said there are some stains etc
Need to know if she knows what causes the stain; otherwise pictures of the location and close-up of color and shape will help identify it, it is to be matched with a specialty solution to the problem.
So I do have PH sensative solutions.
Need to know actual pH value of such solution (preferably not the buffered type).
Will also need to know its purpose of design for cleaning strength – a preparatory cleaner, a super cleaner, a strong cleaner or a general all purpose basic cleaner.
are you saying that i can just HWE the couch using them
I don’t ever mention about using HWE, leathers of all types and kinds are recommended to be clean at room temperature; although we understand the cleaning power of heat at every increment of 18 degrees. But, have to be reminded that leather has its “temperature shrinkage” tolerance. Heat will cause the original fatliquor to vaporize excessively and when dry will be stiffer than before cleaning. More fatliquor-in-a-bottle is required for compensating this excessive loss of original fatliquor.
then after drying use the replensihing solution? If so which ones?
It all comes in the system kit for your specific stain removal requirement, which is paramount in every cleaning project; is to take care of the stain first, the rest is easy and straight forward – don’t have to think about it until you show some pictures.
I dont have a facility to take it off site.
I have done on-site too, not a big problem; just need cleaning up after the nap rejuvenating for the “finger writing effect” when crispy dry.
Just like rug cleaning, will require inspection, groomimg, etc after crispy dry; a return trip is a must!
I was thinking a 6" ryobe hand buffer with a microfiber pad.
This I have thought off once upon a time, to mechanize the process; today what’s in the kit I used with better result.
Other tools like compressed air and a vacuum system for both wet and dry helps to compliment the kit is used with common sense.
Still waiting for pictures, as mentioned by Shorty before going into details…if you wish.
Roger Koh
info@leatherdoctor.com
NobleCarpetCleaners
Member
- Joined
- May 16, 2010
- Messages
- 1,191
- Name
- Noble Carpet Cleaners
Cheap customer called me yesterday about cleaning his "high end" leather couch from Europe. Got me thinking for a moment. I used to clean a bunch of leather pilot and co-pilot seats in my maintenance career but we soon farmed this out to full time specialist. To often they needed color touchup and this guy we used was an artist.
In 8+ years of residential work I haven't found any current pricing schedules for leather cleaning that make any sense considering the effort of all the towelling and supplies that have a fraction of the shelf life of fabric cleaners. My local supplier says they haven't had a leather class in over 5 years.
I've gotten 1 request so far this year, 2 last year. Anybody else keep track of these request?
In 8+ years of residential work I haven't found any current pricing schedules for leather cleaning that make any sense considering the effort of all the towelling and supplies that have a fraction of the shelf life of fabric cleaners. My local supplier says they haven't had a leather class in over 5 years.
I've gotten 1 request so far this year, 2 last year. Anybody else keep track of these request?
lust1kiddo
Supportive Member
Im waiting to hear back from the customer so I can go view the couch.
lance said:
Thanks for your interest!
Pictures you see were a job done by someone in Detroit, USA; with the revolutionized leather-safe system made easy.
Well, they have not done any formal leather training yet; only taking instructions to produce such surprising result.
Starts looking for leathers and see how easy it is to “earn and learn” in the real world of leather.
Should be looking for the high-ends leather, the rest would be easy!
High-ends leather would be such as Nubuck, Naked (vegetable-tanned), Pure-Aniline, Aniline Wax Pull-up, etc.
Not sure, just post pictures.
Roger Koh
info@leatherdoctor.com
lust1kiddo
Supportive Member
I used a leather master product and just used the foam..i did ok. I thought it looked like shit and i was shitting my pants in the middle but I made it through..and the custy LOVED IT...lol. It was my first one...here goes.
before treatment..dusty and milk and sippy cup stuff..
me starting to apply the foam..on dirty spots
me getting gangsta with it all over the couch..i was all in already so I just went for it..i was so scared I was laughing, good thing she was giving the baby a bath in the next room.
finished..and it drying some.
before treatment..dusty and milk and sippy cup stuff..
me starting to apply the foam..on dirty spots
me getting gangsta with it all over the couch..i was all in already so I just went for it..i was so scared I was laughing, good thing she was giving the baby a bath in the next room.
finished..and it drying some.
Royal Man
Member
Looked like it still had a lot of light colored spots after cleraning. ?
lust1kiddo
Supportive Member
it did. but it was better than it was. Again, I was disappointed but she loved it.
Mardie
Member
You should post a picture after it is bone dry.
Goomer
Member
At least the customer was happy and it's good hands on experience, which should lead to less reluctance in the future to tackle leather.
I think it looks pretty good considering.....
I think it looks pretty good considering.....
lust1kiddo
Supportive Member
The milk wasn't coming off the way I thought it would..other than that, I know i did the absolute best I could.
lust1kiddo said:
Milk is a protein based stain and all protein has this coagulating effect which makes it tougher than most other stains.
It would need a specialty high pH 10 leather-safe cleaner to deflocculate or breaking-up the stain.
Thereafter neutralize with another matching specialty low pH 2.0 acidifier.
All these mentioned products are easily image searchable when Google it for leather, nubuck or suede protein based stain removal kit.
Test it out and you will be ready for the next leather job!
By the way, do you think what you clean is leather?
Roger Koh
info@leatherdoctor.com
lust1kiddo
Supportive Member
Hey Roger,
Thanks for your help. I dont know if thats a trick question, but Im going to say yes..what I cleaned was leather. I have this other one with puke on it..
It smelled so bad..I took some molecular modifier from CTI in a towel and over a few days applied it..it got the smell mostly out. After each application, I would use some Chemspec conditioner ( which i dont care for) to add moisture because it would start to dry out. Personally, I liked good old Lexol conditioner..I gotta find some.
Thanks for your help. I dont know if thats a trick question, but Im going to say yes..what I cleaned was leather. I have this other one with puke on it..
It smelled so bad..I took some molecular modifier from CTI in a towel and over a few days applied it..it got the smell mostly out. After each application, I would use some Chemspec conditioner ( which i dont care for) to add moisture because it would start to dry out. Personally, I liked good old Lexol conditioner..I gotta find some.
Before I answer you...
May I ask if these cushion is from a separate set from the above?
These cushions sure are leather!
Roger Koh
info@leatherdoctor.com
May I ask if these cushion is from a separate set from the above?
These cushions sure are leather!
Roger Koh
info@leatherdoctor.com
lust1kiddo said:
Hey Roger,
Thanks for your help. I dont know if thats a trick question, but Im going to say yes..what I cleaned was leather.
I have this other one with puke on it..
These are aniline leathers with a gloss Topcoat-79G.
It smelled so bad..
The bacteria are having a party – you will need a leather-safe bactericide with a pH of 3.7 to sanitize it.
These two conditioners mentioned may have a darkening effect and to remove these darkening side effects you may need a pH 2.2 leather-safe degreaser!
To simplify the processes, here is the recommended sequence.
1] Specialty Protein Stain Remover.
Use pH 10 d’Protein-10 to remove the coagulating protein based stain.
2] Neutralize the pH 10 with a pH 2.0 acidifier.
This pH neutralizing will stabilize the protein fiber by bring its ionic charge to positive (+) so that the hydrogen-bonding with the other mostly ionic negative (-) leather constituents especially the dyestuff and the fatliquor from breaking its bonds and leach out as bleeding and stiff when the leather is dry; moreover it is to control the leather finishes from becoming sticky or slimy in worst case scenario.
3] Sanitize it and Hydrating with a leather-safe pH 3.3 hydrator.
See all those waves marks or solution marks, these could be a combination of the leather constituents of dyestuff and fatliquor that moves away from the center of the alkaline over exposure.
To even out these uneven markings, the entire leather thickness is soak with the leather-safe hydrator and film cling wrapped for up to 72 hours; with in-between wiping and extracting the wick-up foreign contamination and constantly keeping the leather damp.
4] When the leather takes on an even appearance as seen through the clear film wrapper, it is remove to let natural dry with the final wick-up reside removed with a leather-safe Eraser-4.
5] Inspection for satisfaction of appearance.
6] It is now to replenish the original fatliquor and return the leather for the desired suppleness with softness and strength – the leather scented version is recommend for such deodorizing job.
7] Any topcoat surface damages from previous wear is restored with a matching Topcoat-79G.
8] The final finish is treated with a non-stick, rub-resistant protector with an unforgettable classic leather scent.
If you follow diligently these 8 steps to these puke leather, you will never by disappointed.
You would send you customer “over the moon” to see such services…
Image Google search – aniline leather bacteria odor killer kit - and see what you will find…
Roger Koh
info@leatherdoctor.com
