The BEST all around Enzyme / Urine Treatment....

[bensurdi]

All right guys, we've all been doing this for years and have probably tested everything on the market... What do you think works the absolute best for sub-surface urine treatments?

 

[Becker]

Well because your company is chemical free I'm not sure anyone will have an option for you.

 

[Desk Jockey]

Hell I clicked on this thread because I thought you were stating which one.

We've tried a bunch of them and are currently using OSR CTI's stuff and it works pretty well. We also have jar of VacAway's PeeRadicator we have not tried yet but have heard nothing but great reviews.

 

[J Scott W]

The oxidizers work the fastest. This includes PetZONE with Hydrocide, OSR and similar products. But given more time, a bio-enzyme product like Bio-Modifier will do the best at getting rid of sub-surface urine by digesting it. The bacteria / enzymes keep working until there is no food source (urine) left. They can also have some residual value, being reactivated if urine is deposited in the future.

 

[Jimmy L]

I kind of agree Scott but is there any enzyme product out there that is NOT sold as a rtu gallon of product?

I think it gets very expensive to go that route.

Give me a enzyme for pet urine that you add 2-4 oz per gallon.

 

[renegade_cowboy]

If its heavy saturation of urine, its best for the customer and yourself to just replace the pad, seal the sub floor and treat both sides of the carpet.

 

[J Scott W]

I kind of agree Scott but is there any enzyme product out there that is NOT sold as a rtu gallon of product?

I think it gets very expensive to go that route.

Give me a enzyme for pet urine that you add 2-4 oz per gallon.

Bio-Charge is our concentrated product.

You can use any enzyme product with living enzymes as a concentrate if you wish. The bacteria produces the enzymes. Enzymes digest the food source which the bacteria use to grow. The bacteria grow and multiply and so forth. @ bacteria make 4 , 4 make 8, 8 make 16 ....

The more concentrated the product, the more bacteria that are present, the faster that meal of urine gets digested. So most manufacturers tell you to use the product straight to get the maximum concentration and save time. But you can still add water and dilute the product. The process simply proceeds faster with 1 million bacteria than with 100,000.

Each cycle of reproduction takes roughly 20 minutes. (That depends upon the exact strain of bacteria, temperatures and so forth.) Suppose you took a product that was supposed to be used straight and diluted with 8 parts water. After about an hour of activity, it would be up to the original strength. So, it takes an hour longer. Maybe that is not an issue on a vacant property.

For a modest amount of urine and trying to complete the job in one visit, the extra hour wait could be a real killer.

 

[Becker]

Hell I clicked on this thread because I thought you were stating which one.

We've tried a bunch of them and are currently using OSR CTI's stuff and it works pretty well. We also have jar of VacAway's PeeRadicator we have not tried yet but have heard nothing but great reviews.

Are you kidding.

Some people only come here for advice.

Some come here because they want to help.

Some give and take.

 

[Royal Man]

You can use any enzyme product with living enzymes as a concentrate if you wish. The bacteria produces the enzymes. Enzymes digest the food source which the bacteria use to grow. The bacteria grow and multiply and so forth. @ bacteria make 4 , 4 make 8, 8 make 16 ....

The more concentrated the product, the more bacteria that are present, the faster that meal of urine gets digested. So most manufacturers tell you to use the product straight to get the maximum concentration and save time. But you can still add water and dilute the product. The process simply proceeds faster with 1 million bacteria than with 100,000.

Each cycle of reproduction takes roughly 20 minutes. (That depends upon the exact strain of bacteria, temperatures and so forth.) Suppose you took a product that was supposed to be used straight and diluted with 8 parts water. After about an hour of activity, it would be up to the original strength. So, it takes an hour longer. .

Are you saying that Jimmy could just buy a quart of bio charge and pee in the bottle and have a 50 gallon barrel of the product by the next day?

 

[joey895]

My understanding is that with these products you have to put enough down to make contact with the total amount of urine in the carpet. For example I did a job the other day that had three rooms with pretty severe contamination. The carpet looked good but the odor was overwhelming and my moisture detector went crazy. Anyway I used a total of about 10-12 gallons of product poured from a bucket directly onto the contaminated areas, let it sit, and then extracted with my water claw, then pre-treated and cleaned as normal.

Using one of the ready to use products I would have spent $250+ in product alone, I figure I must be missing something. As it stands I used about $40 or so of product.

This leads me to something I've been wondering a long time. How is a syringe used to inject the deodorizer into the padding? It seems you would never be able to get enough of the product to the padding using a syringe unless because you are using the enzymes you don't have to actually saturate the pad? Do the enzymes spread and do their thing? If you could use a lot less moisture I could definitely see the benefit there.

I not sure if any of that makes any sense, if not let me know and I'll try to clarify.

thanks Joey

 

[Temple]

We use Liquid Alive. Works great and smells really good.

 

[J Scott W]

My understanding is that with these products you have to put enough down to make contact with the total amount of urine in the carpet. For example I did a job the other day that had three rooms with pretty severe contamination. The carpet looked good but the odor was overwhelming and my moisture detector went crazy. Anyway I used a total of about 10-12 gallons of product poured from a bucket directly onto the contaminated areas, let it sit, and then extracted with my water claw, then pre-treated and cleaned as normal.

Using one of the ready to use products I would have spent $250+ in product alone, I figure I must be missing something. As it stands I used about $40 or so of product.

This leads me to something I've been wondering a long time. How is a syringe used to inject the deodorizer into the padding? It seems you would never be able to get enough of the product to the padding using a syringe unless because you are using the enzymes you don't have to actually saturate the pad? Do the enzymes spread and do their thing? If you could use a lot less moisture I could definitely see the benefit there.

I not sure if any of that makes any sense, if not let me know and I'll try to clarify.

thanks Joey

There should be some moisture present for bio-enzyme formulas to work. By no means does require flooding or saturating an area as you would with an oxidizer. However, a point I hope I made above, the more product, the faster it works.

A hypodermic syringe is most often going to be used for a few isolated spots of urine, not for a place that has urine across the entire floor. For the nasty ones, I would be either looking at PetZONE for the quick and simple fix or replacing pad, sealing the floor and the whole 9 yards.

 

[ACE]

Best enzyme treatment is Masterblend's Urinelock.

Best Oxidizer is OSR's New formula

Stay away from interlinks crap it has too much precarb and will bleach some carpet. It sucks as bad as their customer service .

 

[Royal Man]

Best enzyme treatment is Masterblend's Urinelock.

Best Oxidizer is OSR's New formula

Stay away from interlinks crap it has too much precarb and will bleach some carpet. It sucks as bad as their customer service .

You must be confused. Interlink's Biomodifier and Biocharge (What Steve mentioned) don't contain any peroxide and can't bleach.

Maybe you are talking about their Urine Treatment. (I have never had a problem with that one either)

 

[tmdry]

Matrix Miracle sold by Jondon, been using for over 2 years now. Used it yesterday on a large cat pee job w/ extreme extractor, did a phenomenal job, client said the carpet's looked brand new (I was impressed too). Dried to the touch before we left (Force 9's axials).

 

[Vivers]

So far OSR is what's working best for us. If still some yellowing USR post treat.

 

[jcooper]

Are you saying that Jimmy could just buy a quart of bio charge and pee in the bottle and have a 50 gallon barrel of the product by the next day?

Lol!

 

[John Olson]

Based on sales. OSR and Molecular Modifier by Cti then odor rescue from prochem and Steam Way's EnzOdor 3 and Prochem's Spring Fresh Duo. OSR and Molecular Modifier out sell everything 8-1 though.

I'm not beholden to any manufacturer, if one works better that's what I'm going to tell you and the others better work harder at making a better product.


p.s. I have given away cases of master blends urine lock and while no one complained not a single person asked me to bring it in for them.

 

[daniel@procarpet]

For what it's worth I haven't found a single enzyme product that would get rid of piss smell in carpet.

I have cleaned so many rugs and tried numerous products. I soaked one with Prochem Odor Rescue and let it sit for 24 hours before cleaning. Still smelled like piss.

Same rug pressure cleaned it good and no smell at all.

If I am dealing with urine I like an acid detergent. If I want some fragrance I will post treat with lemon or some scented fragrance.

 

[bensurdi]

I've tried many different methods of correcting urine contamination. PetZone mixes better than OSR in my opinion.

Molecular Modifier has such a STRONG smell that it almost turns clients off - it is however, probably the better choice for an enzyme.

I prefer to acid rinse the urine. Often we will run AirWave through our system while cleaning to assist in correcting the odor. But I really think it comes down to the particular job itself. We will use many different products/processes but I do think the PetZone followed by an odor counteractant is probably the quickest, easiest to utilize with the most consistant results.

 

[sam miller]

I like OSR, I have a mini hose off the truck so when its really hot I fill a hydraforce bottle with a gallon of water then add 4 scoops, use the scooper to seal the hydraforce and shake while holding with a towel then let it flow over the Urine spots.

Then waterclaw. thats for severe Urine small dogs little areas I like Enzall miked with a little kill odor plus.

Having 3 dogs that saved me a lot. Kill odor plus blows spring fresh dou out of the water.

I have Odorcide for custy's who dont like the KOP. Personally if it works I like it.

For me if You have a local supplier and dont get killed on shipping then buy comprable products, bridgepoint doesnt have much of a prescence in Socal same with Masterblend.

Maybe bakersfield and santa ana have an Interlink

 

[FLYERMAN]

I have tried all the above with exception to the master blend stuff. About two years ago I started using Enz All and never looked back. I use it for all bucket flooding jobs. For surface spray jobs I use a product made locally by Best Way Janitorial. Oh and Spice Air if someone objects to the local stuffs' smell.

 

[Larry Cobb]

We have a different approach for Urine contamination.

The product we use has an actual enzyme (not bacteria) . . .

that is designed to work with the powder oxidizer ingredient.

This combo gives a broader range of effectiveness . . .

with less chance of color removal on sensitive dyes.

It is a powder called Odor Attack.

http://www3.cobbcarpet.com/zen3/ind...2eff07167ab1486bdf1bd2ef7&keyword=odor+attack

Larry

 

[joey895]

Larry, tell me about your Odor-Solv deodorant. What are its recommended uses? Best way to apply it? I assume since its solvent based you can't add it to your pre spray? Or dilute it?

On the urine job I did the other day the people were out of town when I did the treatment. I used an oxidizing product. When they got back in town I asked them is they could smell any urine and they said no, they didn't smell anything. Of course I'm thinking that's great, we did the job. The places reeked before the treatment but they were a little disappointed that they didn't get some kind of "fresh" scent when they opened the door. Keep in mind they were gone for a week after I did the treatment so I'm not sure any fragrance would have hung around that long. Anyway I went back and sprayed some general smell good stuff and they were pleased in the end but I'm wondering if your odor-solv product would be good for a post treatment after using something like odor attack? Or maybe your water based deodorant would be better?

Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Tapatalk 2

 

[Larry Cobb]

Joey;

Solvent-based deodorants have the longest duration.

The Dynachem OdorSolv will last a couple of days with normal ventilation.

Longer, if the place is closed up.

We use a trigger sprayer after urine deodorization near the main entrance,

and where the contamination was.

Larry